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The O2 sensor code I wouldn't worry about at the moment, probably just needs a non-fouler installed on the downstream O2 sensors since throwing codes with test pipes is fairly common.
The P0014 though, possibly just needs to exhaust valve timing recalibrated. Here is the snippet from the FSM.
The exhaust retarder is a magnet driven clutch the only test for it is to unplug the harness and read resistance on the retarder, should be between 9 and 11 ohms.
I would do the recalibration AND test resistance on the retarder.
Yea. Did the relearn procedure after i cleaned the vvt solenoid. I'll test the retarder tomorrow morning. It's just strange to me how it will do fine for a 120 mile round trip as long as the roads are smooth, but 2 miles on a bumpy road and they pop up. Still gotta change the oil too since I'm not sure which oil the shop used
Ok it's probably a short in the wire, send me a pm or tag me in this thread (@username to tag) so I'll get a reminder to look into it tomorrow. I'm pretty busy with a clutch job on another G but I'll have a lot of downtime since I'm just supervising/advising and not actually turning wrenches on it.
Well. I tested the magnetic retarder for resistance. I get 10 ohms between 2 of the 4 pins on the driver side. Nothing on the other 2. On the passenger side however i get 15.9 ohms between 2 pins and nothing on the other 2. Not looking good
Replied to the PM, I think you're testing the wrong component. The exhaust retarder should only be a 2 pin harness, I think you're testing the intake solenoid which is also in the cam cover.
Tested blue connector on top of vtc cover. Both sides of both engines have 4 pins in the connector on cover. The ones on the siezed engine both ohm out at 10 ohms. Considering swapping them to the running engine
Alright so here's what I found, on that harness F41, you should be testing resistance on pins 1 and 2. That harness is viewed as the part that goes back to the ECM so you will need to mirror it to test the side with the actuator.
Verify the same ohms reading with the driver side.
10.2 ohms on drivers side. I am noticing some varnish on the wires goung into the cover if i remove the bolt on the blue connector and look inside the vtc cover tho. Would sludge or varnish cause the resistance to increase?
You can spray some electrical contact cleaner on the harness to clear up that varnish, just make sure the can says it's safe for use on plastic.
Odd that the driver side (bank2) is within spec but malfunctioning whereas the passenger side (bank1) resistance is out of spec but doesn't have any codes on that side...?
I would swap the ones from the other engine, just be aware another user is in the process of doing the same thing and apparently one of the bolts for it is behind the power steering bracket so there's some extra stuff that needs to be removed I guess.
If you have the other engine handy and it was a known working engine that didn't throw codes I would pull the exhaust cam sensor from that side and swap it first just to rule it out since the magnet clutch might be working properly but the cam sensor is reading the pickup ring incorrectly.
Yeah... my bad been a long day lol. Thought you were having the bank2 code, had to re-read your previous posts.
Sure enough I ended up getting completely dirty today doing that clutch swap even though I was only supposed to be supervising Brain is a little tired right now.
Oh and the varnish/sludge i saw is on the wires on the inside of the vtc cover. I unbolted the blue connector and pullednit out just far enough to look in the hole. The wires attached to the back side of the connector have black flakey deposits on them I'm assuming there's more i can't see
Brain is a little tired right now.