Overheating at idle?
#1
Overheating at idle?
2007 g35x sedan 135k miles. It is currently hot here in IL (88 degrees) and it’s starts to over heat at idle with the A/c on. So I did a coolant flush and thermostat, on the day I did that it was low 70’s. I bled the system and went for a very spirited drive, got home and let it idle for 20 mins with a/c full blast, the car temp read abt 206.40 with the hood closed and 203 with it open. It seemed completely fine. It is now hot again and it’s doing the same thing, slowly creeping up(I usually end up shutting the car off at 221) so I’m kinda stumped on this one. Both fans are working(albeit they are the original fans and this is a Chicago car with no belly
pan) So I’ve ordered new fans, after I ordered the fans I noticed the fans seem like they aren’t sealing perfect(noticed a 0.5 cm gap on the inner side of ds fan “shroud”) it also seems like they’re isn’t two speeds for the fans, but idk if there is supposed to be. I’m completely stumped, fans are working, new t-stat, new temp sensor, coolant flush, blew out radiator, new radiator cap, made sure radiator isn’t clogged and it’s still doing this…
im down to 3(ish) ideas
1.)the fans have weakened with age and no longer blow as hard
2.) the dc sports ram air intakes are sucking in hot air making the crappy fans work harder and harder
3.)water pump is COMPLETELY toast, can’t be “starting to go out” Bc no coolant leak from the weep hole and it doesn’t created much if any turbulence
If I’m blantantly missing something please tell me I just don’t think it’s anything major(headgasket) because literally nothing point to it being one
pan) So I’ve ordered new fans, after I ordered the fans I noticed the fans seem like they aren’t sealing perfect(noticed a 0.5 cm gap on the inner side of ds fan “shroud”) it also seems like they’re isn’t two speeds for the fans, but idk if there is supposed to be. I’m completely stumped, fans are working, new t-stat, new temp sensor, coolant flush, blew out radiator, new radiator cap, made sure radiator isn’t clogged and it’s still doing this…
im down to 3(ish) ideas
1.)the fans have weakened with age and no longer blow as hard
2.) the dc sports ram air intakes are sucking in hot air making the crappy fans work harder and harder
3.)water pump is COMPLETELY toast, can’t be “starting to go out” Bc no coolant leak from the weep hole and it doesn’t created much if any turbulence
If I’m blantantly missing something please tell me I just don’t think it’s anything major(headgasket) because literally nothing point to it being one
#2
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,817
Received 2,469 Likes
on
2,161 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
I'm guessing the fan motors themselves are failing, pretty common on the V35 chassis so I'm guessing it's likely common on your V36 chassis.
The V36 uses a different high/low fan speed system, it has a fan control module to scale the speed linear instead of just high or low speed like the V35 chassis had.
You should also pressure test your coolant system just to verify it's actually holding pressure correctly, I don't suspect this will be your issue, it's also highly unlikely your water pump is the issue.
When you turn your AC on it should always switch the engine fan speed to high. Test this with a cold engine like when you first start it for the day, let it run 10 seconds then turn the AC on and the fans should kick on to high speed.
The V36 uses a different high/low fan speed system, it has a fan control module to scale the speed linear instead of just high or low speed like the V35 chassis had.
You should also pressure test your coolant system just to verify it's actually holding pressure correctly, I don't suspect this will be your issue, it's also highly unlikely your water pump is the issue.
When you turn your AC on it should always switch the engine fan speed to high. Test this with a cold engine like when you first start it for the day, let it run 10 seconds then turn the AC on and the fans should kick on to high speed.
#3
I'm guessing the fan motors themselves are failing, pretty common on the V35 chassis so I'm guessing it's likely common on your V36 chassis.
The V36 uses a different high/low fan speed system, it has a fan control module to scale the speed linear instead of just high or low speed like the V35 chassis had.
You should also pressure test your coolant system just to verify it's actually holding pressure correctly, I don't suspect this will be your issue, it's also highly unlikely your water pump is the issue.
When you turn your AC on it should always switch the engine fan speed to high. Test this with a cold engine like when you first start it for the day, let it run 10 seconds then turn the AC on and the fans should kick on to high speed.
The V36 uses a different high/low fan speed system, it has a fan control module to scale the speed linear instead of just high or low speed like the V35 chassis had.
You should also pressure test your coolant system just to verify it's actually holding pressure correctly, I don't suspect this will be your issue, it's also highly unlikely your water pump is the issue.
When you turn your AC on it should always switch the engine fan speed to high. Test this with a cold engine like when you first start it for the day, let it run 10 seconds then turn the AC on and the fans should kick on to high speed.
mans as for the pressure test, I haven’t ran one but the hoses are still hard after abt 3 hrs, so I think it’s holding pressure fine.
#4
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,817
Received 2,469 Likes
on
2,161 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
It's actually really hard to tell the difference between 8psi of coolant pressure vs the normal 12-13psi of coolant pressure. I would still pressure test it since you can usually just "rent" the pressure tester for free (security deposit is usually all the parts houses need and it's refunded when you return the tester).
If it's not pressure related and you're absolutely sure the radiator has no blockage in the fins, or on the AC condenser in front of it, or between the radiator and condenser, then I would bet it's a failing radiator. It has flow through it yes but it might be partial blockage, very common if anything other than Nissan green coolant (NOT regular American green coolant) and distilled water is put in the radiator.
220F is too hot, normal operation it shouldn't be getting that hot so something is wrong. I doubt it's from sucking hot engine air on that intake.
If it's not pressure related and you're absolutely sure the radiator has no blockage in the fins, or on the AC condenser in front of it, or between the radiator and condenser, then I would bet it's a failing radiator. It has flow through it yes but it might be partial blockage, very common if anything other than Nissan green coolant (NOT regular American green coolant) and distilled water is put in the radiator.
220F is too hot, normal operation it shouldn't be getting that hot so something is wrong. I doubt it's from sucking hot engine air on that intake.
#5
It's actually really hard to tell the difference between 8psi of coolant pressure vs the normal 12-13psi of coolant pressure. I would still pressure test it since you can usually just "rent" the pressure tester for free (security deposit is usually all the parts houses need and it's refunded when you return the tester).
If it's not pressure related and you're absolutely sure the radiator has no blockage in the fins, or on the AC condenser in front of it, or between the radiator and condenser, then I would bet it's a failing radiator. It has flow through it yes but it might be partial blockage, very common if anything other than Nissan green coolant (NOT regular American green coolant) and distilled water is put in the radiator.
220F is too hot, normal operation it shouldn't be getting that hot so something is wrong. I doubt it's from sucking hot engine air on that intake.
If it's not pressure related and you're absolutely sure the radiator has no blockage in the fins, or on the AC condenser in front of it, or between the radiator and condenser, then I would bet it's a failing radiator. It has flow through it yes but it might be partial blockage, very common if anything other than Nissan green coolant (NOT regular American green coolant) and distilled water is put in the radiator.
220F is too hot, normal operation it shouldn't be getting that hot so something is wrong. I doubt it's from sucking hot engine air on that intake.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post