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My fuel damper is leaking so will be replacing it. It comes with a hard line
attached that connects to the fuel pipe on the passenger side near where
the exhaust manifold meets the cat.
Will I need to have something handy fo plug the fuel line from the gas tank
since this break will likely be below the tank? Or will the flow be limited due
to the fuel pump being in the path?
I noticed the smallest of gas smells in cabin... pulled the engine cover and noticed residue here with strong gas smell on passenger side fuel dampener. I need to check my docs to locate the fuel pump relay.
Just trying to minimize the trim I need to remove and save a little time... doesn't look like I can get into that relay box easily without removing a bunch of the plastics around the battery.
I'm gonna see if the cheap o-ring fix addresses issue first before swapping entire line. It is barely leaking at all at this point... I see residue but don't see droplets but can smell it some.
I've never done a fuel damper on the HR, are they that difficult to reach? DE engine only has one and it's right out in the open, however it's on the opposite side of the single throttle body so there isn't anything in the way.
Also, o-rings like that typically wear out from ethanol in the gas.
Most of the non flex fuel engines use nitrile because they're cheap.
Newer engine o-rings are mostly flourosilicone (however you spell that) or viton, they're used on all your modern flex fuel cars that can handle e85.
Viton is always my o-ring of choice for anything on an engine, AC systems, fuel systems (gas, ethanol, methanol, diesel). They're EXTREMELY resistant to everything, but they have a higher durometer rating than nitrile so they're a lot more difficult to install because they're so stiff.
I'm sure those ones Z1 are selling are NBR nitrile, those are your typical black colored gas resistant orings. They'll work fine for another 100k miles and are definitely a lot easier to install.