I have a 2007 Infiniti G 35X sedan,



I tried to start the car, but the car doesn’t start the park and reverse signs on the dash are blank but when I try to manually shift it to neutral and drive the lights on the dash show up, but if I try to do it with them shifter and pull it back. Those letters would not show up on the dash and when I try to do a scan I attach the photo of what the codes are showing so I am not sure how to fix this if anyone has an idea.

 

Firstly, did all this happen at once or has the car been misbehaving for a while? Was the car 100% working fine then suddenly not? Did you just go through a car wash or have a big rain storm? Did you run over anything on the car lately? Do you see any visible damage to the transmission wiring harness under the vehicle?

U1000 means one of the computers isn't communicating. This is typically where I would start, all those other codes are stuff that SHOULD be sent from the TCM but it appears that it's probably not communicating. Start by looking for obvious damage, then start checking fuses in the fusible link and IPDM.

 

Also, do you have an aftermarket head unit? If so how long ago did it get installed? There's wiring behind the HU that may have wiggled loose if it's been replaced with an aftermarket one.

 

I installed a flame kit on the car, and every time I pressed it there was like a power shortage or something where the radio screen with flicker and one day by two did the flame throw and when I did it as I was doing it, the key sign showed up on the dash and I kept on driving and there was like a slight hesitation and a loss of power but I kept on driving so when I turn off the car and try to start it again it ran fine but another day that I did it while the car was parked I did the flame and turned off the car, and when I try to start it again because the key son was on the dash it wouldn’t start. And previously I’ve had a check engine light when I tried to scan it it was something to do with the manual mode shifter, but I’ve disregarded that because I didn’t know how to fix it, but that was way before and I kept on driving it, and there was no problems until I install the flamethrower kit.

 

No, I don’t have an aftermarket head unit but what I did to the head unit was I installed a bypass for the rear camera because my car doesn’t come with a camera by installed a Oem camera, and I had to bypass it by cutting a blue wire behind the radio here is a picture of the YouTube video that I followed

 

Ok so it sounds like your mods have caused a fuse to blow out, that's where I'd start. And probably uninstalling that flame mod until you figure out why it's causing issues with your car.

If you didn't run it's power directly off the battery but instead tapped some existing circuit that would be a great place to start. Those type of things are literally just causing an electrical SHORT every time you press the button. That's literally how a spark plug works but the factory ignition circuit is designed to capacitate the needed voltage, and it has adequately designed overcurrent protection (fuses), and there is an adequately sized ground fault path (engine to chassis bonding jumper) to prevent any stray current from affecting other system.

If you just tapped power off some other system then it's circuit probably isn't sized to handle the load.

If you used the exhaust system as a ground fault path without adding extra bonding jumpers then it may have melted some smaller ground wire like the TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE GROUND if that was the fault current path the electricity took which is extremely likely if the factory exhaust grounding system has been tampered with because there's literally a brace that connects the exhaust system catalytic converters to the transmission housing.

Those type of aftermarket modifications REQUIRE their own separate circuit directly to the battery, with adequate overcurrent protection usually in the form of an in-line fuse.

 

for the flame kit i grounded the wire to the trunk screw there’s an extra screw that’s pointed up and I wrapped the ground wire around the screw and tightened it with a bolt on top of it. I checked all the fuses that I know and I don’t think any of them are blown. Would this be a BCM problem or is that a problem that’s far from what the problem might be and how would I fix a short if it was a short. And for the park and reverse letters, not showing on the dash what would the problem be with that?

 

Start with the fusible link, it's the positive battery terminal, remove it and check EVERY one of it's fuses. There's like... 20 or so?

Next remove the IPDM cover, that's the engine bay fuse box behind the battery. Check EVERY one of it's fuses. There's 40 or so, pull each one and visually verify they're all good.

Finally remove the access cover to the cabin Fuse Block - J/B located in the left/driver side footwell. Check EVERY one of it's fuses as well, there's 50 or so in that one.

I'm betting there's a 99% chance that you have a blown fuse.

 

OK so I checked all the fuses and none of them are blown but does the relays have to do with anything? I’m not sure if I have to check the relays also but I didn’t find the amount of fuses that you stated I only seen the ones that are visually in front of me because I don’t think there’s 20 or 50 so I don’t that and I don’t think there’s any blown fuses. The thing that’s confusing me most is why the park and reverse shift lights are not showing but the neutral and drive show when I manually move the shifter. Then I turn on the car onto the run position and I see that the signs for the neutral and drive show, but when I shift it back in the car is on automatically by pressing the shifter **** and pulling it back it doesn’t show.

 

I was just pulling numbers out of my ***, looks like each one has about 20. Here's the layout for your vehicle.

 

damn my fault so for the shift lock relays I was touching some of them and the lower right one didn’t have any voltage but the upper one had voltage is that supposed to be a ground or something or is every pin, supposed to have voltage in that relay also for the ones that have wire connectors do I takeoff the wires and test the pins behind the wires

 

I'd start with just the fuses, not the relays.

 

they all work

 

At this point your best bet is going to be taking it in for a diagnostic at Nissan or Infiniti to find out what computer stopped working. Troubleshooting the U1000 is the next step.

 

so I checked my BCM, and when I went to see it, I seen this last time there was a thjnk rain and the rain was leaking inside of it, because of the firewall seal was not sealed properly.