Recently picked up a 2007 G35x, so far I love the car but one thing that kept throwing me off was the sensitive gas pedal/throttle. At first I figured it was due to me not being used to the car but eventually I stumbled upon the service bulletins which indirectly fixed the problem. I can't stand dealerships so I set out to finding the software that could help me update the ECU. This throttle issue only effected the 2007 models, 2008 ECUs were adjusted.

Infiniti Service Bulletins

• ITB07-045a
• more to be added, not sure which ones effected it

I'd like to add bulletins to this list which could be referred to, I'm unsure of which ones effected the throttle body but these were two which popped up for me.

ECM P/Ns

• 23710-JK60A, B to 23710-JK69A, B were listed on ITB07-045a which I assume were the effected models for throttle issues

Finding your ECM/ECU P/N is important, do not try flashing a random one if it will even let you. I wanted to verify mine never received updates so I checked it using Nissan Consult 3 Plus v75.15. This guide won't be requiring Nissan C3P so the other option would be checking your ECM physically or calling up Infiniti and giving them your VIN number from what I read.

My vehicle was 23710-JK68A, meaning it is the original version/never updated. It's my understanding unless you requested/had the symptoms they wouldn't update your ECU. Some dealers seemed to not want to or charged an amount at the time.

Now that we have our vehicles ECU, you need to go to Infinti's website for the data. I'm unsure what other ECUs will be updated to but punching in 23710 then JK68A gave me ECU 23710 JK68E. You might be wondering "hey didn't that 07-045a bulletin say it only went to C?", and you'd be correct. My model received two more versions after this which fixed other issues along with the throttle.

Clicking on the "New ECU ID" will bring you to a screen listing what you inputted, hit submit and you'll be given a price of $37. You'll need an account(free) and then you'll be given 24 hours to download it. Personally worth it for how much it transformed the car for me. You'll likely not find this anywhere for free, nor should you want to(who knows if it was tampered/corrupt).

Required Software & Hardware

So depending on how you source this, you could probably get away only spending $37 or under $100.

You'll need a J2534-1 interface which connects a Windows 7/10 PC to your vehicle's OBD 2 reader. I purchased a DICE clone for my Volvo which had the ability to act as a J2534 device. Nissan has a list of supported J2534 but I doubt you'll receive much support if you do have issues using them.

The software you'll need is " Nissan ECU Reprogramming Software" or NERS for short. I used NERS 3.08, doesn't require an internet login/supports up to 2018 vehicles. More than sufficient for our use case. NERS 4.03 is the current version which supports all 1999 models to now, purchasable for $425. 4.03 requires online activation to use. Do what you will with this information.

Lastly, you'll want a charger for your battery. The last thing you want is losing power during this critical update, it took me around 10 minutes. Your radiator fan will likely kick in and draw power as well. I ran my charger in 12v 15amp mode which kept it above 12v. NERS will not let you proceed if the value is below 12v.

The Process

1. Begin by making sure your J2534 interface has its required drivers installed, Nissan NERS will verify your interface on launch. NERS is easy to install as well. You'll need the ZIP containing the ECU data you purchased and that should be about it.

2. Once NERS is installed, we'll need to add our ECU data to the correct location.

"C:\Program Files (x86)\Nissan J2534 ECU Reprogramming Software\Application data\Reprogramming Data" is the path

Extract or drag and drop the files. I dropped a DAT and CSV file in, the rest ("unpack" or the PDF) aren't needed. I've read that the included unpack file(mine didn't have) can corrupt files, so just do it manually.

3. Hook up your charger using the proper points to the positive battery post and the ground in the middle of your engine, this is what Infiniti's manual listed. Do NOT connect negative cable to the negative battery terminal, one spark is all it takes to ignite your battery fumes.

4. Connect your J2534 interface to your vehicle and PC, I'd recommend using a wired USB connection. Some devices support bluetooth or wireless, not sure how NERS interprets that. Put your vehicle in the ON position, do not crank your engine.

5. You may now launch NERS and you'll be greeted with a splash screen. Acknowledge the text and press accept. Be aware, this software can be "slow" do not close it out of impatience. You'll be given options, the "Reprogramming" one is what you want to select. It should load the files (the ONC error usually results if they're missing) and you'll be given a list of ECU P/Ns. Scroll through and find your P/N(trust me it's there, the list is super long). Selecting it should show your desired ECU P/N to the right, which you saw on the Infiniti website earlier. Once you've verified this info hit next.

6. You'll be given another screen verifying the info and battery voltage. Hit next and let it begin the process. This will take a bit, your cluster may illuminate different icons and your radiator fan may kick in. Do NOT unplug anything or open any doors/mess with anything. After it finishes, it'll tell you to turn your vehicle off for a minute then turn it back on. Press OK and you'll be given a completed screen verifying what you did.



7. After I shut my vehicle off, unplugged the charger, J2534 interface and started it up to let it idle for a bit.

What Now?

Assuming everything went to plan, take your G35 for a spin. I noticed immediately the throttle felt 10x better. Some users reported the vehicle feeling "slower" but I think over the few updates they perfected it. It just feels more gradual. Slamming the gas will still put a smile on your face. If you had any bulletin symptoms they should've been solved too. Its amazing how much this transformed the vehicle. This also means I don't have to apologize for my driving skills anymore.

This made me curious if there are any other ECU data updates we could potentially be missing, Nissan C3P allows you to reprogram more modules. This is likely a rabbit hole not worth going down but still interesting. I did attempt using Nissan's C3P to reprogram but ran into a few roadblocks using my J2534 device, NERS worked flawlessly. Hopefully this helps anyone looking to do this procedure, there isn't much info out there on the topic for DIYing it.

 

Great info!!! My dealer in the day didn’t balk at applying them at my request

Historical TSBs here

https://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/loc...s.php?catid=77

 

appreciate that! And yeah it seemed to be hit or miss with dealers then. Hopefully any other 07s out there can use this but I’m sure the number is pretty small/most have already done the updates.

 

FINALLY! An answer to my dreadful concern about this G35! Thanks to OP Antonio, I was able to save hundreds on this project!

Recently bought a 2007 G35 Sedan V36 Auto as a project, car sat across from my house for few years in florida sun and rain; Had a busted drain tube form sun roof and all the water was nicely put on the floorboard, about 3" of it for months. After complete gut and rinse (5x), its good now but, the most annoying part of this car was the drive.. The gas pedal was more sensitive than my 2021 Explorer, it was terrible to control at low speeds. Way too abrupt when pressed lightly and made the car launch like on a drag strip. Then was the issue is the dreadful 'surge' at 900-1200 rpm under light throttle and that seems to be also gone with this new update.

I followed the OP instructions, went to the Infiniti website and punched in my ECU number which is 23710-JK61D and there it was, an update to JK61E. Made free account, paid the $37 and downloaded the file.
Next, i googled the NERS v3.08 and downloaded that and installed it on my old Lenovo Thinkpad running Windows 7 Pro.
I was researching which VCI to buy for this operation and there are too many to choose from. I also came across VXDiag Ford IDS VCI online that is supposed to work with NERS and since i had it for my IDS, I connected it and NERS recognized it as a Bosch VCI. You do need a laptop that runs Windows 7 and have a emulating VCI that NERS likes, that can run over $200. I tried NERS on Win10 and 11 but some DLL files didn't get installed and registered so i didn't bother testing. But on Win7, no issues with offline software like IDS or JLR. I tried to connect ForScan and IDS to the Infiniti but no luck. No connection but the Ford IDS VCI works fine.

So, let's see if it works! Yes it does! Connected VXDiag to my laptop and car, updated license and launched NERS. Loaded the ECU file, selected my original ECU from the LONG list and pressed START.
Took about 20 minutes to complete but it did without any issues. But, you MUST have a battery charger connected to the car battery to keep the voltage above 12 volts or you can brick the ECU. I used my old black & decker 15 amp charger and UNPLUGGED both fans, not the module, just the fans to keep voltage above 12.5 volts. If you have a commercial grade charger then no need to unplug fans.
Also, make sure to have your laptop connected to power adapter and PREVENT IT FROM SLEEPING! Last thing you want it to close NERS half way!

The gas pedal feels more normal now and more in control of my foot and not the rear wheels. Also, I didn't perform any relearn procedures for the throttle bodies or idle. I had my xTool D7 connected and the engine went down to 675-700 idle on it's own after few minutes of running after the update. Idle is more stable now and doesn't drop below 650 when revved up. Either way, it's worth doing this update if it's available to your car and doing it yourself is much better feeling than paying someone else to do it for you like the dealership.
Yes, it's an old car with 15 modules but for $1200 with a healthy drivetrain, it's a bargain. Here are some pics.

 

The pictures are fantastic, thanks for that! Glad everything worked out. I can only imagine how fun cleaning the interior was(I had a heater core burst in my old car, took forever to get the coolant out).

I’m shocked at how tiny that VCI is, I’ll have to snag a pic of my monstrosity. I used a Thinkpad T400 on Windows 10 IoT, figured it would give me the best compatibility.

The tip for the fans is useful, I didn’t want to disconnect anything as I was afraid of messing something up in the process. Good to know for other users struggling with staying above 12v in the process.

 

Well, after the ECU update, a new disease came out of the car, the dreadful Yellow Key warning light on the left side of cluster..

First I thought my key fobs had weak batteries but then again, the cluster didn't tell me about the key fob battery being low, I checked them and even re-programmed the keys using my xTool D7 and the light keeps coming back.

The BCM was wet when I bought the car 2 months ago, I dried it and everything worked 100% until today. I did ton of if research on this issue and it all points back to the BCM.

My error code is B2614-00 and that has something to do with the ACC relay feedback. The AC controls, radio and center console big LCD for navigation screen come on for 2 seconds and turn off and yellow key light comes on. Tomorrow I will open up the BCM and take a closer look at the ACC relay circuit and I will also check the feedback wire between the driver side fuse box and BCM.

This is not unusual to me as I had to bypass BCM power wires before in Ford super duty, Jaguars and Honda's so I'm hoping that will solve the issue.

I also ordered a SM2 Pro J2534 vci from AliExpress to use with Consult 3 plus as the IDS vci doesn't work with Consult but works with NERS..

 

After few hours of probing and checking and more checking, turns out that the BCM is losing it's mind.. In ACC mode it turns of the junction box (fuse box left side kick panel) and that's where all accessories get power from. It turns on the ACC relay and it turns on the radio, climate control and the rest on that circuit. It also turns on some security modules which tell the BCM 'all is good and turn that stupid yellow key icon off!'
But, the BCM ACC wire only comes on for 2-3 seconds and then turns off. Becomes ground basically. So, time for another electric bypass surgery. After probing all wires in those BCM plugs for a On/OFF power wire in ACC mode, i found ZERO. I did a jumper wire across the radio wire to the BCM wire and it works fine, except the radio and accessories do not turn off with ignition off due to positive voltage feedback to the BCM PDC circuit. bunch of mombo jumbo with this car, more headache than joy. What i ended up doing was providing the BCM wire with positive voltage with ignition in ON position and everything works fine except no radio in ACC mode which i'm fine with that for now. It's a temp fix for a 'going to hell' BCM so i'm gonna buy a spare BCM from eBay and have it ready. Seems like these cars need to have a spare BCM in the trunk instead of the spare tire!

G35 V36 BCM with positive wire supply to ACC wire in IGN mode.

 

After 19 days and about 600 miles of city/highway driving on this ECU update, all the previous issues came back.
First one being the light surge under light acceleration which is very annoying in slow traffic.
Second one is 2-3 second cranking times to start the engine Hot or Cold.
Third one is the throttle pedal control, it's the same aggressive as it was before the ECU update.

It's as if the ECU decided to dump the update and go back to it's original rough settings. I have cleared the ECU and BCM memory, I actually replaced the BCM because it was going south on accessory wiring.
At this point, i am not sure what the hell that ECU update was for but definitely NOT for the above issues.
Just to be clear on what I did to this car already:

Things replaced/checked so far:
-Both cam sensors with Hitachi ones CPS0032
-Crank sensor Hitachi CPS0220
-Replaced coolant temp sensor
-Replaced oil gallery gaskets and oil seals
-Cleaned T-Bodies and did ALL relearns
-Cleaned MAFs
-Replaced PCV hoses and valve
-Replaced spark plugs
-Replaced fuel pump assembly
-Replaced BCM (had few issues of it's own)
-Updated ECU to most recent software using NERS
-Replaced all fluids
-Replaced intake manifold gaskets
-Removed fuel rail and no dirt or obstruction inside it.
-Checked and confirmed fuel pressure to be at 50psi.

Again, the car runs strong when started, it's a 5AT so it's hard to avoid that surge spot and control the RPMs with the gas pedal.
Hopefully next week i will be getting a VAG+ OBD2 adapter and NDS3 to datalog EVERY sensor in this car and hopefully, I will be able to find what the hell is causing this engine to crank so long to start and that damned surge.

 

Have you checked all your grounds? I know the ones on our cars aren’t great, they can cause all sorts of funky issues if they’re gone/rusted out. I’m planning to pick up a grounding kit for my G35, I’ve read it makes it a lot more responsive(and could solve existing ground issues)

 

All my grounds are clean. I checked the resistance between the engine and chassis and ECU and they're all 0. I cleaned all grounding plugs, lugs and even sanded off the paint off of the bolts to have metal to metal contact and I've also put dielectric grease on all of them. I have added extra 6ga ground wire from battery negative to FR strut tower post so chassis to battery ground is good. Engine ground to chassis is very good and has 2 thick cables. I have checked all my engine bay plugs and no water damage or visible wire damage from age. I've tried unplugging sensors and restarting engine but most of the ones i unplugged, made it worse so it's hard to pinpoint the cause that way, i'll have to wait for the OBD2 plug and use NDS3 to datalog..

 

After getting my hands on new VXDiag Nissan plug and a 08 ECU, i finally got it to work with my 07 car! No, nothing got fixed with the stupid long crank, it's still there despite the 08 ECU.
I was able to reprogram the BCM to accept it using Consult3+ then i rewrote the VIN to my car and everything works, except, the Intelligent Cruise Control. My 07 has that useless thing for old people which i have never used.. I never used cruise control even when drove 18 wheelers across the country, that option kills.

So yea, car starts the same and lost cruise control. I'm not sure what exactly is different between the 07-08 ECUs, i can't really spot the difference in driving. It's as if the 08 has a smoother, more relaxed program in it versus the 07 which was more like a 350z, unless, the ECU is still adapting which the 07 didn't do any of that stuff. The exhaust also sounds a little different as if the exhaust valve timing was altered, it's more growly at mid-high range.. I will most likely put my 07 back in, it's more 350ish and makes the car more fun to drive even with that annoying aggressive throttle control and also because it has the cruise control and i'm sure someone out there might use it one day, but it won't be me..

Heres a pic:

08 ECU in 07 G35 Sedan with most recent firmware in it.



08 MEC100-521 in 07 G35 Sedan.

This concludes the Journey of this issue, the post is now closed.

 

Actually, it's not closed yet. On April 25th of 2024, i have solved my long cranking time issue. It was the Made in China Hitachi camshaft position sensors i've bought from RockAuto!
I have also replaced the ECM with my 07 one because the 07 has a more rough, 350Z like driving maps and the 08 has more of the 'easy rider' maps and i didn't build my Gr33n G to drive like that..
And of course, i didn't like the fact of missing cruise control. So, after replacing the Hitachi cam sensors with my old Denso ones, the engine starts up under a second!
Here is the post: Post #25

 

damn, I had all these issues resolved with a uprev tune. JK69A kept doing the stupid surge at 1K and i genuinely started thinking i was having a transmission failure or a VTC issue. Had my tuner reflash my car to JK69E and the car runs way better than before

 

damn, you were on A all this time? If you updated to at least D, you would have it all fixed. I had D and the car felt more alive than on E. I was able to peel out from stop and chirp the wheels to 2nd but with E, it's more less peel but more traction. I wish i could downgrade back to D. I had all the ingredients to do it myself so it didn't cost me anything to reflash. I was thinking about UpRev but at $550, it's not worth the benefit in my opinion. It would benefit if i had forced induction but on NA, not worth it. UpRev should lower their price to $250 for this 17 year old junker, that way MORE people would probably buy. I just did the TransGo mod and the trans shifts somewhat faster and it's a $260 mod (kit and oil) so that's worth buying, but not UpRev.

 

Similar situation with my G35 VQ35HR. Been through it all and now chasing the same surging situation. New cam chain is going in next week with gallery gaskets. I'm wondering if my ECU can be updated