Well, this will probably be the last post i make about this car, i have checked everything that i can using different softwares and hardwares and i came up with nothing. I'm not a tuner so i don't know what to datalog using NDS3, there are bunch of sensors and i did datalog most of them but the flat spot during cranking is still there for those 2-3 seconds. It's like there is a timer somewhere in this damn car that stays alive for 5-7 seconds and then resets to long cranking time. My best guess will be the ECU; It probably has a software fault or maybe hardware, not sure. No codes, car runs strong so i guess it is what it is.. Most people would consider this to be normal.. Is it? Here are 3 last videos i made.

1. 2. 3.
Here are 2 datalog files of engine start using NDS3. You can download NDS3 for free and run the datalog file to see if you can spot the issue. I'm not a graph guy, i'm more of remove and replace.
Link to my google drive where the 2 datalog files are: Google Drive

 

so i tested the check engine light with ignition on and got 5 slow flashes. looks like i'm having an issue with the #5 coil like you've said above. also this guy confirmed a similar condition here: Service Engine Soon flashing 5 times when car is on ACC, but no codes. - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion i'll go and swap some coils around to confirm.

p.s. 5 blinks could also be the emission readiness per this thread: CEL Blinks 5 times? - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion and https://www.nissanclub.com/threads/s...3/post-5657238

i know that my cats are throwing codes and those have been cleared a few hundred miles ago, so the 5 lights could be normal if the cats aren't ready. i did swap an old coil i have laying around and will keep checking things over the next couple of days.

 

any updates since?

 

Well, I've isolated the long cranking time to one last device and that's the ECM. I've swapped the gauge cluster, BCM, IPDM and same ****. But, here's the ball kicker; Regardless of hot or cold start, I can restart the engine under a second this way: Start engine and run for whatever time, turn ignition OFF and immediately turn ignition to ON but don't start engine. It can stay in that state for hours (tested) and then press brake pedal and press start and engine starts under a second.

I've ordered a VXDiag Nissan plug and a 08 ECM so hopefully I can reprogram the VIN from the 08 to my 07 using Consult 3+ and never have to enjoy this embarrassing restart. I got eh ECM today, just waiting for the plug. I'll update this weekend.

 

Dayum... does your car have a remote start installed by chance? Mine does, so just thinking out loud here.

 

No remote start, I've pressed Lock 3x, held Lock for 5 seconds and nothing happens.

 

sometimes it's two quick hits of the lock button, but doesn't look like yours has it. welp, def keep us posted. this stuff is nutty...

p.s. saw your water pump post recently and 100x on the useless throttle body coolant lines running above the exhaust... wtf were they smoking? lol

 

I guess that t-body heater is mostly made for northern parts of the world but not useful here in Florida. When i bought the car last november, the first thing i had to do was put over a gallon of water into the rad and then looked for leaks and found a pinhole on the left side on the intake manifold where the coolant line runs to the left t-body. Nothing was rubbing it, it just developed a hole.. There wasn't any rust in the cooling system, just basic aluminum oxidation and after 3 flushes, it's clean. It's not as bad as my 2015 Jaguar XF 5.0 SC, that thing has 6000 plastic cooling lines all around it made by Ford..

On the current topic, I've replaced the ECU with a 08 one, used Consult 3+ to rewrite the VIN and did the immobilizer relearn and same crap. Same stupid long starts.. The last thing i can think of are the t-bodies, one of them might not be opening during starts-ups? I'll pull off the hoses and check but idle relearn check out fine and rpm is good, TPS shows all good also.. I don't know and i guess i'll just leave the car as it is..

ECU from 2008 G35 Journey.

2008 G35 Sedan V36 ECU file number. 08 is 23710-1NA0D 07 is 23710-JK61E

Here are 2 videos of the throttle bodies. Engine restarts fast when the whole throttle body cycle is interrupted. I'm out of ideas but i'm also starting to realize why Infiniti quickly replaced the 35HR for the 37VHR..
Driver side

Driver side t-body

Passenger side

Passenger side t-body

 

that is one bizarre issue, indeed... keep the thread updated if you ever solve this riddle.

 

April 25th 2024 is the day I finally solved this bizarre issue.
2 weeks ago I was driving (fast) actually i was racing a hemi challenger on the highway, yes the challenger won because my SLIP light came on at around 140mph and my engine went to limp mode. I was able to stroll off the highway to the side of the road, connected my xTool D7 and saw this:

CAM sensor issue Bank 2 (driver side) Same code today as it was 2 weeks ago.

The infamous P0345 driver side (Bank 2) cam position sensor issue and there are 2. Would of been nice to know which one!
So i've erased the code and car ran fine for the next 2 weeks until tonight when the same code came up and no, i was not racing, i was actually driving home doing about 60mph and the SLIP came on, transmission started to not upshift and HARD downshift. I had to use manual shift mode to shift it up or down. Luckily i was 2 minutes from the house so i've erased the code and car drove fine to the house.

Getting 2 of the same codes in that timeframe is suspicious so i took out all of the 4 Hitachi sensors out of the hot engine and measured the resistance across pins 1 & 3, 2 & 3 and 2 out of 4 were the same but the other 2 had different readings, one was waaay off in MegaOhm scale when it's supposed to be in KiloOhm. I've measured my old Denso sensors and they all had the same readings at room temperature so i waited for the Hitachi sensors to cool down to room temp and measured them again and 2 out of 4 had same readings (close to Denso) and 2 were out of serious range. So I've installed the old Denso sensors and wham bam 1 second engine starts right away! No more long embarrassing cranking times for this Gr33n G!

The reason why i changed the cam sensors in the first place was because i thought they were the cause of the crappy start ups at the beginning of this post and that was the fuel pump issue. I've read many posts on here and other forums that Hitachi is the brand to goto for VQ engine sensors, i mean, the T-bodies are Hitachi! But after looking at the box itself, i've noticed the glorious words, the words of the future: Made in China..
I've read few posts on here that talked about Hitachi sensors being cloned in China and being fake but i wouldn't think that RockAuto would sell that crap???

So, to conclude this dreadful post, DO NOT PUT ANY HITACHI SENSORS ON YOUR VQ35HR ENGINE! Use Denso instead and make sure they're made in Japan.
Here is the final video i made earlier today:

 

Noice work! now i need to go race a V8 myself, maybe it'll throw me the same code lol I knew you'd figure it out. Do you recall the KOHM specs for the sensors? i'll test mine this weekend if the weather cooperates.

p.s. just check cuckauto and they're 45 a piece. 52 on amazon. Does your fancy scan tool have a cam sensor oscillator or whatever it is that can help diagnose a failing sensor? i may swing by my mech and have him run some tests with his tools.
p.p.s. just checked FSM and they literally have 2 step check for cam sensors lol resistance is like "except 0 or infinity at 77F" - nice job, Infiniti...

 

Here is the measurement of both Shitachi and Denso Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors:
Camshaft Sensors:

Looking at this photo, Pins go from Left to Right 1, 2 & 3. When the sensors are HOT, you'll get readings on pins 1 & 2, 2 & 3. When Sensors are COLD or 75 degrees and below, pins 1 & 2 will not show any readings, but pins 2 & 3 will and you can see the MAJOR difference. All Denso sensors are +/- 2% in difference. Pull them out, let them cool off in the house and check the resistance across pins 2 & 3 as shown above and compare. Also, check the Crank sensor, it's located in a very bad HOT spot where the pigtail can get brittle and lose connection.



Hitachi CPS0032 on LEFT, Denso 167 01J11 on RIGHT.

Crankshaft Sensors:


P.S.
Just went to RockAuto website to file a claim on these garbage sensors and they're out of stock! Thank you Lord of Cars! So they offered me a refund after i ship them back and so i will.

 

thanks! yeah, i've had to pull the crank sensor before and it wasn't much fun lol i may just go to a local jy and score these off a low(er) mileage G and see if anything changes. will keep the thread updated.

 

I believe Hitachi is the OEM for the DE engine and Denso is the OEM manufacturer for your HR engine.

 

Too many mixed answers across ALL internet platforms about that. The kicker is that my HR ran pretty good on those sensors for over 2k miles with no codes, the city MPG was at 9-12 at light throttle but i've read that these engines are not for MPGs. The worst was the engine cranking and sometimes would drive edgy and sometimes 'eeeh' style. No codes until the P0345 FINALLY showed up. I never thought of measuring sensors before but after this drama, i def learned a more-in-depth way to diag a vehicle without the $$$$$ tools. Sure i could of went to a diag shop and paid them big bucks but that's not fun.

P.S.
RockAuto listed the HITACHI CPS0032 for the VQ35HR engine. I guess they made a mistake..