cuckauto has "DENSO is the OE supplier for this vehicle" and hitachis going for $90/pop lol it's strange how long it took for it to drop that code. i redline the car daily and no codes so far. will try to go to a jy later today and get all 4 sensors.
your city mpg are pretty low. i think i can squeeze about 14-15 city only with my lead foot. i'm elated when i get to 20mpg mixed driving lmao

 

It is very strange how long that ECM can take to finally bust a code.. But this ECM in my 07 is a little more bizarre because everytime i had the battery out or was swapping out BCM or the 08 ECM, i never had to reset the throttle bodies or do idle relearn. Even after taking them off of the intake manifold with battery connected to clean them.. In fact, when i had the 08 ECM in, Consult 3+ v226.50 did a idle relearn in about 40 seconds and it worked very well, idle in gear was Lexus smooth. But when i tried same this on my 07 ECM, nothing happened. Left the process on in Consult 3+ for over 30 minutes and like it was just stuck on it. Tried same process few times and didn't work. Not even the manual foot pedal process works on this ECM. The idle never changes and cannot be adjusted using Consult 3+ either, i tried and got an error everytime. Same for engine timing, cannot be adjusted, but exhaust cam calibration process does work go through. The transmission manual shifter mode (S mode) is wacky also, when i drive part throttle, it shifts gears when shifter moved but when driving harder, the shifter becomes useless as the TCM bypasses it completely. When floored, i can upshift or at least i think i'm doing it but when i let off of the gas pedal and try to upshift to reduce RPMs, i can push + few times and the nothing happens so i put it back to D and after 3-4 seconds pass the transmission upshifts on it's own..

I know it's an 'old technology' and an old car but same applies to 350z which this engine came from. Not sure who at Infiniti thought it was a good idea to dump a VQ35HR in the G35 for 2 years and make a huge pile of crap from it, but it was what it was..

 

Interesting. I only drive my '07 in manu mode and use either the paddles or the shifter to shift. Your shifter could be failing (happened to me once). You def need to get paddles (i actually happen to have a set for sale lol) - very much needed mod and around $250 these days with the trim.
I was able to snag 4 cam sensors at the jy and all registered at around 1.22-1.25K OHMs. Will try to pull the old ones on Sunday and see what readings i get on those. Were the hitachis out of tolerance even when "cold"?

 

I haven't tested the DS mode yet but so far, it's a different car. Starts under a second, shifts better, more stable in the RPMs and overall a better feeling car! I've reset the MPG to see what number will i get after a week of city driving, hopefully better than 11. I've also swapped out my crank sensor with my old Denso one since i've replaced the cam/crank sensors with the Hitachi all at once and i've posted a pic on that above in Post #27. The Hitachi crank sensor also had different readings than the Denso one and i've measured the sensors in room temp, mine was 78 degrees. I'm still bogled by the fact that they even made my engine run and not blow it up, must be those damn 350z default maps!

 

LOL reminds me of an issue i was chasing, where it was leaning out bigly (linking thread below). these HRs can handle some abuse...

Hitting the "rev limiter" at 5-5.5k - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

 

swapped all the cam sensors today. whoever designed the cam sensor connectors sucks deez. 2/4 needed pliers assistance to come out. one broke for good... so far, it's starting with no hesitation. will see how she does tomorrow.

p.s. none of the old ones Ohmed out bad, but i will bake them in the sun and see if i can find the culprit, granted if that's the case in my situation.

 

Before figuring out the cam sensor issues on my car, i did replace the fuel injectors with new old stock ones and that helped in power or at least i think it did or it didn't.. My old ones looked the same as the new ones except the tips had burns on them but ports looked clean and filters were clean also. It's worth pulling them out and looking inside the input hole to see if any of your rust got lodged in there..

I have also ran a can of seafoam intake cleaner, the one with the red straw that you insert into the t-body while revving up the engine and that also helped in faster rev ups and my o2 sensors started to read faster.
Since the HR has 2 t-bodies, you'll need to run half can on left and the rest on right side to get all 6 cylinders. I ran the engine around 3200 RPMs because if you run at 2000 like they say, there won't be enough vacuum to suck the seafoam into the engine and most of it will leak down to the filter.

 

welp, no cigar for me. still getting some hesitation before it finally catches (only after parking the car after a nice long drive). butt dyno did feel different/better the last couple of days, tho. who knows, i might just need to bite the bullet and get all 4 brand new ones.

tried testing the old ones heating them up in the sun, but the go 0L on the Ohm meter when they get hot enough on pins 1&2, resistance does increase a bit on 2&3, but nothing crazy like what you were getting on yours.

 

welp, bish threw a P0011 at me today. good news is the paper galley gasket was replaced 20k miles ago for some MLS ones from Z1. another good news it's only one bank. as far as i know, they come in pairs if (with P0021) if it were the oil pressure issue due to the blown-out gasket. makes me think the cam sensors i've swapped over from a similar mileage G and are on their way out. it didn't go into limp mode, and i was still able to rev it freely with no apparent loss in performance. of course, it's the pass bank - the fun one lol also got a new crank sensor coming and just ordered two new cam ones today. should be able to swap them over on sunday if the weather plays nice.

p.s. still getting the stupid elongated crank, but i do really think it's my starter...

 

Starter failure is typically a WEAK start, like it cranks at a slower rpm than usual. Failed cam/crank sensor causes a long start, fortunately on your HR engine the cam sensors are all the same so you can just buy one OEM sensor, mark it with a sharpie to identify the new one, and swap it around to all the cam sensor locations to try to isolate a bad one.

 

not necessarily. i have a thread on my old DE G (linking below) that had a starter failure that first manifested itself with long cranks. It finally died one day in the parking lot. getting the crank sensor today and cam ones tomorrow. will see if that does anything.

Longer than usual crank times - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion