Hi there,

I'm a n00b here, but I've been reading this forum for 2 years that I have now owned by car.

I have a problem where my driver's power seat moved up/down, tilts back and forth, but does NOT move forward or back.

When you press the button, you don't really hear anything. This happened recently, I have noticed once that it wasn't moving, after I raised the chair, it worked again for about a week. Now it doesn't work again.

I know I can replace the gear for cheap. I have the link, but is this really the gear or do you think it could be the switch?

Dealer (Willowdale Infiniti) wants $1,000 to fix this. They think the entire chair assembly is broken... which is BS, considering that most switches work...

Help?e

 

I have tried searching the forums before posting. All I found was the site for the gear replacement for cheap.

Just not sure if this is the problem...?

 

buuump

Can someone help?

 

Hey Im having the SAME exact Problem! it just happened to me yesterday! I am suppose to go have it looked at this Friday. I will let you know what my dealer( Nalley Infiniti) says

 

So I'm not a mechanic but I was able to fix it myself with just a philips screwdriver!

So here's what to do:

1. Download this manual and print it: http://www.odometergears.com/documen...eplacement.pdf

2. In a well lit area, unscrew the 3 bolts in the front of your seat (on the bottom) below the cushin, on EACH side.

3. Then unhook the motor (by pulling on it. - very easy). Move the seat switch...If the motor moves, then it's fine!

4. Ok, if the motor is fine, check the little white gears, If they have grooves, then follow to step 5, if they don't order a 60$ replacement from Odometer gears (I didn't have to do this).

5. My gears and motor were fine individually. The problem was the seat motor came loose from all the seat movements from the gear. So I just reassembled it and tightened it up and MAGIC, it works just like new again.


I FUXXING hate Willowdale Infiniti for trying to charge me $1,300 to tighten 6 screws (3 on each side).

Good luck!

 

i had a similar problem on my 04 sedan it might not be the 70 dollar cog what you do is take a phillips screw driver and remove the button assembly then take a flat head and pry the plastic clips and that should give you access to the top half of buttons then pry four more clips and you will have access to your seats hopefully

 

I'm rehashing this because I am betting mine is the prob. most are facing. I have 2003 sedan and the seat tilt switch only moved one way (forward) in my case. I loosened the 4 seat bolts so I could move the seat enough to get my special stubby tool to remove the two phillips screws holding the seat switch assembly. I turned over the unit and separated the physical switches from the micro switches and sure enough the plastic tangs that move the micro switch were broken off on one side. It is a bitch to separate the button switch from it's housing but when done it would be an easy repair from above if one could buy the button switch. For now I left the useless button off and can work the micro switch if I have to. Anyone got an extra button switch? HAha

[IMG] [/IMG]

 

did you ever figure out what was wrong with your seat motor keeping it from moving forward and backwards? mine just started doing the same thing.

 

Hey Fellow G Owners wanted to help out people having seat problems and want to share some good info. Well here is my story I was hearing static coming from my rear speakers when i had my seat all the way down to the floor when i raised the seat it went away then my seat switch would not work at all sometimes so i went to the dealer they told me i my motors going and i have to replace the whole track $2000 are you kidding me

Well I can be pretty handy so i search every form with no help so last night i went out to my car took the plastic finisher piece off the seat so I could see underneath better. When my stereo was off i could actually hear a spark coming from under the seat when lowered all the way Then my seat would stop working the only way i got it to work again is by using the passenger entry button on the back of the seat. I parked in a really dark spot went under my seat looked while i lowered it and i seen the spark was really easy to see. What was happing is the wire the goes into the white box in front of the seat was getting pinched in the middle motor support so i retaped them theres two wires that are insulated in black that run right along the side then along the front down into the white box they are held onto the bottom by a yellow clip.What i did is tuck the wires unde the metal lip in front bottom of the seat pulling the wires clear of the motor mount you kinda gotta pushh the up from where they start and pull forward in the front to make them fit nicely under the metal lip. Make sure you disconect the battery before doing this from everything i have read i seats are pretty sensitive with all the sensors for the airbags

HOPE THIS HELPS OUT CAUSE SAVING 2000$ for me made my day

 

This was me but somehow all ID disappeared so I had to get a new one to post here. I finally broke down and bought the proper switch for my 2003 sedan with premium from Sewell for $135 shipped. It took some time to figure out but now I could do pretty easily. I left the battery hooked up until I had removed the bolts as the seat needs to move somewhat to get to bolts and misc. plastic trim. After that I removed the neg. batt. cable and went back inside to remove the screws holding the (poorly designed should have been free replacement switch) I tilted the seat back manually so as to be able to work under it easily and found the connectors for the switch under the left most corner of the seat. I disconnected those and routed the wires out of the seat. Here's where you can learn from my mistake, before you remove the wiring tie a pull wire to it to allow for easier installation of the wiring and connectors from the new switch. Tape the two connectors of the new switch inline to make for a smaller connector package to fish into the just big enough hole in the metal frame of the seat push and pull using the pull wire and you should be good to go. Route the wires, hook it up, and screw in the switch plate.

Ok so I spent $135 for the switch but if I had only had the silver toggle button with unbroken tabs I'm sure I could have fixed it that way. I now have one from the old switch that is not broken. If your tilt or forward and back is not working chances are good this is your problem, not the motor, not the track, and you don't have to buy a new seat.

 

I've got the exact same problem Mike had. My driver's side seat control switch has one bad button. The switch mechanism is fine, but the toggle button is broken.

It seems a shame to have to buy a whole new switch when all I need is a plastic button. Does anyone have a spare switch or toggle button lying around?

 

Here's a pic. Switch wasn't that dirty when I put in garage but what can I say I'm a woodworker.
You can zoom in on dirt and sawdust but you should also see the micro switch contacts that you can move manually after separating the toggle button. Seems like if you got to this point you could use the manual method and put the settings in memory and fix the switch when you can. Don't pay the dealer $600.

 

Success!

With a small amount of hassle, I managed to partially remove and disassemble the switch assembly. It turns out that my button was fine, but merely clogged with junk such that it wasn't going far enough forward to push the micro switch. (It wasn't really that dirty, but even a small layer of dirt can keep it from functioning.)

I thoroughly cleaned the buttons, reassembled the switch, and screwed it back in - and everything works great now.

Many thanks to Mike1650 for his help!

For anyone with this problem in the future, here's what I've learned:

(For reference, this was done on a 2004 G35 Sedan)

The hardest part is getting access to the switch, which is screwed onto the seat. The two screws are hidden behind a colored plastic sticker (covering the side of the switch facing the center console). It's easy to peel back (or punch through) the sticker, but it's somewhat difficult to get access to the screws.

The recessed opening that houses the screws is fairly deep, and the space between the switch and the center console is very small; so unless you have the perfect stubby screwdriver with a long bit, you won't simply be able to unscrew it without removing or loosening something else.

Others have removed or loosened the seat itself. In order to do this, you have to access and loosen eight 12mm nuts under the seat (or at least the four on one side). This seems straightforward, but turned out to be trickier than anticipated because there's not much space around some of the nuts for a wrench to fit (and no way to fit a ratchet). In addition, Infiniti seems to use some sort of thread locker on the nuts; so it takes a fair amount of force to initially break each one free (although once you do, the move very easily). I loosened three of the nuts, but couldn't loosen some of the others; so I tried a different approach.

I removed the center console. Yep, that's right. And it's not particularly difficult to do either. I only removed the middle piece of the center console (the one between the armrest and the radio area). That piece simply slides out if you pull it towards the back seat and tug up a little.

The only trick is removing the top of the automatic shifter, so you can take that middle piece almost entirely off. To remove the top of the shifter, pull down on the plastic bit beneath the leather ****. It should just slide downward. Then carefully remove the metal clip from the newly exposed plastic base of the ****. Don't lose the clip! When you remove the clip, the **** will spring upward (and almost pop off). You should now be able to remove the **** and lower plastic housing, which should allow you to slide the whole center piece up over the shifter.

The only thing restraining the center piece will now be the many wires connected to the underside. But you don't need to disconnect any of these wires. Simply slide the center piece up high enough to get easy access to the screws in the side of the switch. (I found the screws easiest to access with the seat as far up and almost as far forward as it will go).

After you remove the screws, the switch will be free. However, it will be tethered tightly by the bundle of wires from the switch to the harness. I attempted to unclip the two connectors to the harness (which are taped to the underside of the seat rail frame at the front corner of the seat nearest the door). Unfortunately,even the tape is difficult to remove. And uncliping the harness connectors was seemingly impossible without breaking them. They are held in on multiple sides, and the little push tabs are both tiny and recessed. (I'm sure they're easier to remove if you have the seat loosened.)

I settled for lowering the seat and disassembling the switch while still connected to the harness. This is probably not advisable, but I was careful (and was more afraid of breaking the harness connectors than the switch housing).

I only needed to remove the front sub-switch, the part with the two silver toggle buttons (that controls movement of the seat forward and back and the position of the seat back). This part is simply press fit by two plastic clips on both sides. You can gently pry the clips open with a small flathead screwdriver, and work your way around. After the black switch assembly is loose, you'll probably have to gently tug it out of the large plastic switch housing.

Now that you have that switch isolated, you can clean the heck out of it and test it. Make sure to pay extra attention to the underside of the silver toggle buttons. (That's where the dirt causing my problem was.)

I was lucky: cleaning alone returned my switch to functioning. If cleaning doesn't solve your problem, you can disassemble the black switch assembly. It comes apart in the same way the larger switch housing did - with press fit clips on both sides.Gently pry them open, and you will be able to see the bottoms of the toggle buttons and reveal the micro switches that actually control the seat movement.

Start by testing if the micro switches are functional by gently pushing the white bits forward or back (they each only move one way, and then return to their set position). If any of those don't work, you know that's where your problem is.

But if all four micro switches work, then take a look at the bottoms of your toggle buttons to see if they look OK. Look at Mike1650's description and photos of the broken button in his previous posts to this thread. If this is your problem, you could fix it by simply obtaining a new toggle button (if one can be found here on the forums), or you could remove the button and operate the micro switches directly. Or I suppose you could just replace the whole switch assembly, like the dealer would.

Reassembly is simply the reverse of what I described.

 

Here are some photos:

 

For those that have the patience to overhaul/clean the switches, this will save you much frustration.

The first switch took me 2 hours, and I got lucky putting it together. The 2nd switch took me 4 hours, and I think I never would have gotten it together doing it the same way as the first one. The 3rd and 4th both took about 10 minutes each.

Once you get them disassembled down to the circuit board and switches (last pic in post #14), pry out the tabs on the top cover on the 3 sides you can access, and push a sewing pin (or something similar) down the little slot adjacent to the circuit board, from the top side, and hook it under the tab next to the circuit board. Now the top should come off. If the parts spill, their order is: copper switch, tinned side down, with the wide end of the switch on the little blob of tin in the switch base. Note that the switch piece has 2 notches that fit in the little copper cradle in the base. The ball bearing sits in the saddle in the switch piece. The 2 short/wide springs go vertical in the slider, and the long thin ones go horizontal in the slider.

I cleaned the contacts using a pencil eraser; I took one from a pentel and cut it so it could reach all the contact points. Works great and doesn’t hurt the switch.

When you try to re-assemble it, you will notice that you can get one side assembled, and the springs will fall out every time you try the second one. It could take days and luck to get them back together like this. What saved me hours was to use a tiny bit of epoxy and glue the damn springs into place in the slider. I used a #60 drill bit to blob glue into the holes for the long springs, and just rubbed a bit of epoxy on the holes in the top with the spring in it. Let the glue cure.

To re-assemble, put the switch and ***** in the base, put the sliders in the top using the long springs to hold the sliders in place in the top, and lightly place the top on the base. The springs will line up right on top of the *****. Now before attaching the top (and locking the tabs), reach inside with a dental pick and pull the long springs away from the sides of the top and position them on the sides of the base (the top goes over the base and you need the springs in the inside of the base). Attach the top and you’re done.