04 G35, Heat Problem
#17
11-01-2011, 02:09 AM
#18
11-04-2011, 09:12 AM
It was definitely air in the system, most non VQ oriented mechanics do not know how to properly bleed our coolant system.
*Warning: If temp gauge begins to quickly climb immediately shut the car off, let it cool to ambient temp and check fluids.
**Perform at your own risk, It is highly recommended for a professional familiar with the platform to perform this task.
-Rob
- Elevate the front of the car (where radiator cap is highest point in the system), Top off radiator and coolant reservoir
- Start the car
- Turn the Heat on 90* and fans on high
- Let it idle until operating temp is reached
- Rev the car to ~3k rpm and hold for 10 secs
- Let the car idle for a couple seconds
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 4-5 times
- Turn off the car
- Place a fan in front of the car and allow it to cool completely down to ambient temp
- Check reservoir and Radiator level, add if necessary
- Repeat Steps 2-9 until you no longer have to add Coolant and your heat is Hot
*Warning: If temp gauge begins to quickly climb immediately shut the car off, let it cool to ambient temp and check fluids.
**Perform at your own risk, It is highly recommended for a professional familiar with the platform to perform this task.
-Rob
#19
11-05-2011, 09:07 AM
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#21
11-05-2011, 08:22 PM
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Cars been in the shop for a week now... we are still not 100% sure on the problem yet... we have flushed the system out 4 times and vacuumed out the system to get all the air out the car runs great when driving normal but when we beat on it ( 20 mph rolling start to 80 mph) the car quickly over heats and the reservoi overflows. So i think we are leaning towards a blown head gasket 
(----- SUCKS!!!! I was going to go talk to the speed shop who built the engine to get a second opinion... doesnt look good tho :/
(----- SUCKS!!!! I was going to go talk to the speed shop who built the engine to get a second opinion... doesnt look good tho :/
#22
11-05-2011, 11:03 PM
Had the same problem with mine after a radiator change at an NTB ( National Tire and Battery) they had a problem getting all the air out of the system. This made the heater not work properly ( heater won't work while idling, Nissan are bad about this too) I had to take my G to the dealer to get all the air out, they charge the cost to NTB but it was about $100 they have some machine they hook up to the car to pull all the air out of the system
#23
11-07-2011, 09:05 AM
#24
11-07-2011, 04:33 PM
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I am not sure what it is honestly. The car has alot of stuff done to it. Ik that it used to be supercharged... the engine was bullet prooffed and the car only has 24k miles on it... it was only supercharged for about 8k of those 24k miles... i had my mechanic today chemically test to see if compression gases are getting into and mixing with the cooling system should hear back from him today...
#25
11-09-2011, 02:10 AM
I need some assistance, My 04 g35 coupe..heat is not working, My heat would work if i press the gas but at idle its cold air.. i had my radiator flushed, heater core flushed, and my heat worked for about a week(half *** though) then went away...
I tried the bleed process but i may not be doing it right either. So if someone would be willing to give me step by steps on that end i would really appreciate it.
Also how would you know if your head gaskets blown, or what would it mean if you were getting oil in your radiator some how?
Thanks for all help that is giving..
I tried the bleed process but i may not be doing it right either. So if someone would be willing to give me step by steps on that end i would really appreciate it.
Also how would you know if your head gaskets blown, or what would it mean if you were getting oil in your radiator some how?
Thanks for all help that is giving..
#26
11-15-2011, 09:17 AM
Hey Guys,
I have a similar issue, colder air at idle and it gets warmer if the RPM is high enough. I do not hear any water noise, could this be related to a heater control valve, or do these cars have them? I have a 2004 G35x. My mechanic flushed the system out but it's not any better than it was before the flush.
I have a similar issue, colder air at idle and it gets warmer if the RPM is high enough. I do not hear any water noise, could this be related to a heater control valve, or do these cars have them? I have a 2004 G35x. My mechanic flushed the system out but it's not any better than it was before the flush.
#27
11-15-2011, 11:01 AM
#28
11-15-2011, 12:58 PM
It appears no matter how much insight I give people still are forming conspiracy theories about their malfunctioning heat.
We have yet to have a G35/350Z in our shop with such a heat related problem that was not caused by air in the coolant system, whether it was created by a leak or recent cooling system service. Most non-G/Z shops do not know that to bleed our coolant system properly the front must be elevated.
I'm not saying parts related to the heater will not fail someday, but right now I honestly do not believe our cars have enough age to be experiencing failed heater cores etc. Before you go spending a ton of money on parts you may not need, try following my bleeding instructions, or finding a shop that specializes in G/Zs.
Goodluck!
-Rob
We have yet to have a G35/350Z in our shop with such a heat related problem that was not caused by air in the coolant system, whether it was created by a leak or recent cooling system service. Most non-G/Z shops do not know that to bleed our coolant system properly the front must be elevated.
I'm not saying parts related to the heater will not fail someday, but right now I honestly do not believe our cars have enough age to be experiencing failed heater cores etc. Before you go spending a ton of money on parts you may not need, try following my bleeding instructions, or finding a shop that specializes in G/Zs.
Goodluck!
-Rob
#29
11-19-2011, 10:37 PM
It was definitely air in the system, most non VQ oriented mechanics do not know how to properly bleed our coolant system.
*Warning: If temp gauge begins to quickly climb immediately shut the car off, let it cool to ambient temp and check fluids.
**Perform at your own risk, It is highly recommended for a professional familiar with the platform to perform this task.
-Rob
- Elevate the front of the car (where radiator cap is highest point in the system), Top off radiator and coolant reservoir
- Start the car
- Turn the Heat on 90* and fans on high
- Let it idle until operating temp is reached
- Rev the car to ~3k rpm and hold for 10 secs
- Let the car idle for a couple seconds
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 4-5 times
- Turn off the car
- Place a fan in front of the car and allow it to cool completely down to ambient temp
- Check reservoir and Radiator level, add if necessary
- Repeat Steps 2-9 until you no longer have to add Coolant and your heat is Hot
*Warning: If temp gauge begins to quickly climb immediately shut the car off, let it cool to ambient temp and check fluids.
**Perform at your own risk, It is highly recommended for a professional familiar with the platform to perform this task.
-Rob
I followed the instructions but did it a little different.
At step 5, I had problem keeping it at 3k RPM so I kept it at 3.5k RPM and I had it there for 15 secs instead of 10. Then let the car idle for 5 secs (I used my phone to clock this)
I started to feel the heat after the third try and I stop the process after the fifth time. The car finally has heat again.
My temp gauge is at the middle and didn't change during the whole process and I've noticed that coolant level in the reservoir dropped almost a quarter of itself.
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Z1Motorsports (12-01-2011)
#30
11-30-2011, 09:54 PM
Does the reservoir get overfilled? I've seen air in the system and the reservoir overfilled because the low pressure return portion of the radiator cap is stuck shut. When this happens the cap will not allow the coolant to return to the radiator when it cools down. I've seen radiators, water pumps and thermostats replaced over this.
