trunk doesn't open! (not your ordinary failed trunk)
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trunk doesn't open! (not your ordinary failed trunk)
2007 G35 coupe 6MT
1. trunk won't open with key fob/cabin trunk release switch (checked glovebox switch)/release button on tail light
2. trunk light does not work either. so i checked the fuses and wiring in trunk for any frayed wired or cut wires as this was a common problem for the trunk not opening. all fuses are good and no wires are damaged. all tail lights, brake lights, 3rd brake light function properly.
3. concluded it might be a bad trunk lock actuator. ordered new actuator, bolted it on, trunk is still dead. thought i received a faulty actuator, so sent it back and got a new replacement. again after trying 3 different actuators, trunk is still dead.
4. here's the twist though: in this picture, i've circled the metal switch piece sticking out. when i push this piece upward (towards the trunk lid), my trunk light comes back on. it seems like the trunk is alive again, and the lock operates when i tried unlocking with my key fob. when i let go of that piece though and it's not pushed, trunk light is off and trunk is dead again.
so i'm thinking maybe i'm missing a part in the trunk lock/actuator assembly that applies pressure to that piece upward? i read the repair manuals and it seems i have all the parts needed: lock actuator, emergency release cable, triangular pin. so i don't know what's wrong! can someone see if their trunk lock assembly looks different?
i'm very lost at the moment. i'm also thinking it might be an electrical contact problem within the actuator itself, since it works when the locking piece is pushed against something. but how can this be on 2 other new actuators?
it's so inconvenient without a working trunk. this is gone on for 2 months now..and i know the dealer will charge me the price of a new trunk if i let them remedy it
1. trunk won't open with key fob/cabin trunk release switch (checked glovebox switch)/release button on tail light
2. trunk light does not work either. so i checked the fuses and wiring in trunk for any frayed wired or cut wires as this was a common problem for the trunk not opening. all fuses are good and no wires are damaged. all tail lights, brake lights, 3rd brake light function properly.
3. concluded it might be a bad trunk lock actuator. ordered new actuator, bolted it on, trunk is still dead. thought i received a faulty actuator, so sent it back and got a new replacement. again after trying 3 different actuators, trunk is still dead.
4. here's the twist though: in this picture, i've circled the metal switch piece sticking out. when i push this piece upward (towards the trunk lid), my trunk light comes back on. it seems like the trunk is alive again, and the lock operates when i tried unlocking with my key fob. when i let go of that piece though and it's not pushed, trunk light is off and trunk is dead again.
so i'm thinking maybe i'm missing a part in the trunk lock/actuator assembly that applies pressure to that piece upward? i read the repair manuals and it seems i have all the parts needed: lock actuator, emergency release cable, triangular pin. so i don't know what's wrong! can someone see if their trunk lock assembly looks different?
i'm very lost at the moment. i'm also thinking it might be an electrical contact problem within the actuator itself, since it works when the locking piece is pushed against something. but how can this be on 2 other new actuators?
it's so inconvenient without a working trunk. this is gone on for 2 months now..and i know the dealer will charge me the price of a new trunk if i let them remedy it
#3
Odd problem. Since physical pressure on that metal piece (which is the emergency release pin, I think) somehow makes it work electrically, that makes me think it could be a ground problem. Just a guess, but be sure the black wire in that connector is:
#1 solidly connecting to its mate in the actuator and
#2 making it cleanly back to a solid chassis ground point.
Another thought - that tab is how the emergency release cables open the trunk and I don't know if it needs to be physically "reset" after being pulled...
Hopefully somebody else in here will have a better answer...
Good luck!
#1 solidly connecting to its mate in the actuator and
#2 making it cleanly back to a solid chassis ground point.
Another thought - that tab is how the emergency release cables open the trunk and I don't know if it needs to be physically "reset" after being pulled...
Hopefully somebody else in here will have a better answer...
Good luck!
#4
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Odd problem. Since physical pressure on that metal piece (which is the emergency release pin, I think) somehow makes it work electrically, that makes me think it could be a ground problem. Just a guess, but be sure the black wire in that connector is:
#1 solidly connecting to its mate in the actuator and
#2 making it cleanly back to a solid chassis ground point.
Another thought - that tab is how the emergency release cables open the trunk and I don't know if it needs to be physically "reset" after being pulled...
Hopefully somebody else in here will have a better answer...
Good luck!
#1 solidly connecting to its mate in the actuator and
#2 making it cleanly back to a solid chassis ground point.
Another thought - that tab is how the emergency release cables open the trunk and I don't know if it needs to be physically "reset" after being pulled...
Hopefully somebody else in here will have a better answer...
Good luck!
the pressure is actually applied to the tab, and not the metal pin piece. when i push up on the tab switch, that's when the trunk is alive again.
still stumped..i might just have to bring this one to the dealer
#5
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