Hello! I am posting about my 2004 G35 Sedan 6mt, my daily driver that has turned into my project car... I love this car to death but i am getting frustrated with all of the issues I am having.

I recently have done a lot of work on my G; new timing chain & new timing cover gaskets, new compression rods & control arms, new bushings all around the front end, valve cover gaskets, new rack and pinion... the list goes on...

I thought I was almost done with my long laundry list of work. I got everything put back together on my car and mostly working. Once I started driving it my SLIP and VDC_OFF lights came up on the dash along with the occasional ABS noises and feeling the brakes kick in a bit even though I wasn't trying to brake. I did my research and played the parts game. I checked the brake fluid and ended up completely flushing the entire system with new fluid, checking the connectors near the abs components in the engine bay, replacing the wheel speed sensors in the front (I only touched the back end of the car for the brake flush), checking my pads, rotors, and calipers and re-lubing them to make sure they aren't locking.

After reading through these forums and other forums I started to run out of ideas so I got a Power Probe 3 & a Bluedriver obd2 scan tool. I used the power probe first to test all of my fuses to see if i could narrow down where the issue was. All of my fuses were good except for some undetermined ones on the left side of my bcm fuse panel. They didn't show up as powered or grounded and gave a weird reading on the screen of my power probe. Next I drove the car around the block while testing it with the bluedriver scanner. I got 2 issues: C1143 (steering angle sensor circuit malfunction) & P0021 (Intake Valve Timing Control Range/Performance Bank 2). I brought the car to the shop to get it aligned and have the steering angle sensor (SAS) reset to make the C1143 go away. The shop said they couldn't reset my SAS because they couldn't communicate with it. The release paper they gave me said "There are multiple codes in the system. 17 BCM codes, 3 ECM codes and no other modules are communicating". They didn't tell me what the codes were, but they did say that most of the BCM codes were some variation of "unable to communicate".

I don't know where to go from here. I would like to test my ECU and BCM to see if they are good or if it is a wiring harness problem or some other error, but I don't know how to do that. I also don't have any good wiring diagrams of these systems. I can't get my ABS to work until I can reset my SAS, but I can't reach it until I can communicate with it. Other than the occasional ABS malfunction, the car feels like it's working great mechanically.

Additional info: I have some other issues that make me suspect the ECM or BCM could be bad or slightly malfunctioning. I have the common passenger window issue where it only rolls up or down some of the time. In the past, I attempted to bypass that issue by making a circuit on my breadboard hooked up to a switch that controlled the window motor with power coming from the locking system right next door. After it worked I installed it but made a dumb mistake installing it and ended up shorting it and now my lock system won't lock without immediately unlocking (I know, it's my fault..). Lastly, I have those weird readings from the five fuses on the left side of the BCM fuse panel. I lost the cover to the bcm so I don't have a diagram of which fuse is which so I can't tell how related to the other issues that may be.

How can I test my ECM and BCM? Is there a way I can manually reset my SAS? Has anyone had experience with similar stuff before? I can't afford much right now so I am hoping it is something I can fix myself after the issues are diagnosed. Let me know if I need to include more details or add pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

When the timing chain was done did the bonding jumper get reattached between the passenger side of the timing cover to under the coolant reservoir? It was likely completely removed and may have not been reinstalled. The VDC problems are almost 100% due to the new rack and pinion. My guess is the vehicle wheels were not perfectly straight with the steering wheel locked perfectly straight and you ended up changing the steering angle sensor ever so slightly, 2 degrees is enough to screw it up.

What is this "BCM fuse panel" you're talking about? I assume you mean the CABIN fuse box yes? It receives it's power directly from the fusible link so I'd check every one of those viewing windows to see if something blew, that's PROBABLY what happened.

Replace the fusible link if needed, it's like $25 for a new one.

Have Nissan recalibrate the steering angle sensor.

Win.

If that doesn't work then reply back and I'll see what else I can think up, here's a link to the Factory Service Manual, I suggest you download a copy of each PDF and keep it on your phone/pc so you have access to it. The document starts with FWD. PG Power and Grounding will have most of what you're looking for.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html

 

Hey Cleric! Thanks for replying so quickly. I am google searching now but do you have a picture of the bonding jumper so that I can go check it? While I was working on the timing chain I labeled stuff with tape and marker so that it could go back in the right place while i was reassembling. When I finished the job I didn't have any parts on my bench that I didn't know where they went, however it is still possible that I may have left something unattached inside of the engine bay while reassembling the car.

 

I am going to go check the fusible links again when I get home and I'll update with what I find. are there any hidden ones that I should check? Or are they all on the positive battery cable?
Also I downloaded the entire FSM. Thanks for linking it!

 

This is the book nding jumper I'm talking about on the passenger side, my finger is on the bolt. The other end is u der the coolant reservoir.

 

Thanks for replying with the pic so quickly! You're awesome. That timing cover looks a bit different than mine (is that a rev-up?), but ill go look for something similar. I'll also reference FSM power and grounding section like you suggested. I'm going to go check it out on my lunch break because i'm curious and don't want to wait until I get home.

 

Here are some pictures. I checked my fusible links. None of them looked bad or blown. i cleaned off the battery cables and made sure there was a solid connection. The battery itself is brand new, just got it last week. The binding jumper is connected to my timing cover, and the other end is connected to the body of the car. The connection of the binding jumper to the body of the car looks pretty corroded though.



This side of the binding jumper is connected to my timing cover.



Big fusible link



The other end of the binding jumper harness is connected to the body. It does look pretty badly corroded though. Should I remove this and clean the mating surfaces?



What is supposed to go here? For as long as I can remember nothing has been attached here.



More fusible links on the positive battery cable. Visually they look good.



More stuff. All of these links look good too upon visual inspection through the clear windows. (side note: the horn doesn't work and the horn relay didn't work when I tested it a few days ago with my power probe III)



This is my cabin fuse box. The fuses circled in red gave that weird erroneous reading when i tested them with my power probe III, all of the other ones tested ok (including that weird looking one by the fuse puller)



close up



close up



close up



the little grounding connector here looks pretty corroded too, would that tiny one cause any problems?



positive battery cable

 

Sorry missed your PM, just got back to you.