I am sales manager of a Mitsubishi store, but always been a huge Nissan fan. Built several s13 as a younger man, was an avid member of both NICO and Zilvia back in the day. As luck would have it recently took a trade. 05 G35 6 speed manual, 115k miles in fairly good shape. caviat, it came in on a rollback. I have very little money in it and I'd like to buy it and return it to glory, potentially let my currently 14 year old use it for good weather car when she turns 16, I have a wrangler rubicon for her in bad weather. Here is what I know:

It started and idled strong after it had sat for a few days, but died as soon as it had any load. The battery is shot, but we're using a fully charged jump box. We pulled codes, which I should have paid more attention to the specific numbers, but it had battery codes, ecm codes, camshaft position sensor codes, among other things I don't THINK would be connected to this. I pulled the fuel pressure regulator at the rail and it has plenty of fuel pressure, we used a node light and its getting signal for the injectors. As I said, it would fire right up and sounds great after 3-5 days of sitting. My theory went to, well maybe the camshaft position sensor/s are bad and it's loading up and flooding, takes a few days to clear fuel out of the system. Ok. So changed both bank 1 and 2 sensors and let it sit. Now it won't fire at all. Security light isn't on, so I don't think its a key issue. The CEL, vdc, rev lights are all on. The tach DOES NOT bounce or move at all when turning it over, which I feel odd, I'd assume it would at least bump a smidge. Any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to save this car from going to the auction and getting myself a good deal on a bucket list car, but I don't want to buy a money pit either.

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide or insights.

 

After hooking scanner back up to it today, this is where I'm at:

P0340 Camshaft bank 1
P0345 Camshaft bank 2
P0113 Intake Air temp circuit signal high
C1130 Fuel Cut something or other, this is actually a "brake system" code and is leading me to wonder about the ECM?

 

Tach not moving on crank is usually a crank sensor failure. Also throwing both cam sensor codes I would just replace all 3, only use Hitachi or Genuine Nissan, these motors don't play nice with any aftermarket sensors (Hitachi was the OEM supplier thus why I recommend them).

C1130 just means the engine controls system is malfunctioning, probably because it can't see the crank or cam sensor.

P0113, the IAT is part of the MAF so use cleaner thoroughly and see if the code goes away, pay particular attention to the harness to make sure someone didn't bend a pin over.

Security light should NOT be on while the engine is cranking, that's normal. I would start by thoroughly cleaning the battery connections, fully charging the battery, reinstall, clean MAF, clear codes, crank engine, watch for codes. If it still doesn't fire pull the plugs and inspect, if you have codes for CKP and CPS then replace those sensors, if you still have the IAT code then replace the MAF.

 

So I should trash the new amazon junk camshaft sensors I bought and get 3 good ones and cross my fingers

well this is good news, I didn't want to spend 200 dollars on new ecm immobilizer etc just to see if I'm gonna buy this car or not


yeah the intake sensor was the least of my concerns at the moment, I pulled a k&n filter out of the box that someone SOAKED in oil and didn't allow to dry, so I'll assume on having some intake codes at least temporarily, but those wouldn't prevent the start, at least I don't think.

In closing, sensors. I'll check back in. thanks a lot.