Howdy fellas, long time lurker, first time poster. So I know what I did, I just don't know what it hurt. Pulled the connector out of the rear view mirror, found 12v and ground, clipped them simultaneously with power on to use as hot/ground for uniden, obviously this shorted something thru the clippers and now my cluster is dead, and no more power is coming thru the accessory wire that previously had power. Nav is fine, dome light works, cig lighters, etc. Just dead cluster and a dead accessory wire. Anybody got a schematic for this? I checked all fuses, none are fried, anybody know if there's a fusible link somewhere in this circuit? Any help would be appreciated. Not a huge concern currently, I can use the unidens supplied power source to see my speed, blinkers head/tail lights are fine, know I've got 3/4 of a tank and know my range, but I'd like to fix it. Thanks in advance.

Edit* I rewired those two wires back to the connector, nothing as noted accessory wire no longer shows voltage.

Edit** FIXED. Meter fuse was shot, have ses light now, trying ecu reset.

 

Check both fuse boxes, the cabin Fuse Block - J/B as well as the engine bay IPDM fuse box.

Fusible link is bolted to the positive battery post, not likely that you blew something in it since you would lose a LOT of systems simultaneously but there are a dozen or so high amp fuses in it that you should check as well.

 

Here's a pic from the service manual of all the fuses you need to check, it's the same circuit as the rear defogger.

 

yeah turned out meter fuse popped. Think I hurt the bcm a little though. Car no longer dings with keys in the ignition and door open, turn signal lights and clicker don't work on the dash but still function outside, dash clock is dead. None are major issues, but looks like I'm in the market for a bcm.

 

Dash clock is not part of the BCM.

What about when you have the engine off, key in the ignition, and open the door. Does the buzzer turn on to let you know the key is still in the ignition?

 

Also, can you plug in an OBD2 reader and connect to the ECM?

 

that's what I meant by it doesn't ding, keys in ignition off door open. Turning on the headlights with the key out and door open it no longer screams at me either. Searching posts here it seems that and the blinker lights on the cluster and no dinging are bcm related, ecu reset got rid of the ses light, but I'll plug my reader in and report back.

 

Ok next thing to check, with the engine on and the car in drive, unbuckle your seatbelt and see if you get the indicator on the dash.

Here's the next set of fuses to check as well for the chime audible indicator.

 

Checked all those, all are good. Haven't got the scanner on it yet, been doing exhaust and brakes today. Seatbelt indicator still works as it should.

 

Starting to look like something cooked in the BCM. It's not just a plug n play item, needs to be programmed at Nissan/Infiniti. Part of the NATS security stuff, ECM/BCM/keys all get programmed together as a matched set.

 

so Ive heard unfortunately. But, not having blinker lights on the cluster, no dinging for headlights on, keys in the ignition door open etc. isn't really something that bothers me. Dash clock not working is fine, clock on the nav still works and I usually have that up anyway. Appreciate the help man.

 

If cutting those two wires was the beginning of all this then it REALLY points to fuses, as cleric has been saying. I don't think you've lost your BCM because the fuses are there to protect it - well, and keep your car from burning up if there's a short somewhere.

For example, here's what the '03 coupe FSM says your fuse #14 runs:
EC-ASCIND
EC-IL/DL
AT-MMSW
AT-NONDTC
BRC-VDC
GW-I/MIRR - rearview mirror "anti-dazzle" power
SC-CHARGE
LT-H/LAMP
LT-DTRL
LT-TURN - turn indicators on dash?
LT-ILL
DI-METER - gauge cluster
DI-WARN
DI-AT/IND
DI-CHIME - ding
AV-NAVI
AV-COMM

And it has a very similar list for fuse #19:
EC-ASCIND
EC-MIL/DL
AT-MMSW
AT-NONDTC
BL-VEHSEC
BL-NATS
GW-I/MIRR
ATC-A/C
LT-H/LAMP
LT-DTRL
LT-TURN
DI-METER
DI-WARN
DI-AT/IND
DI-CHIME
DI-CLOCK
AV-NAVI
AV-COMM

So I'm not sure how you are checking those fuses but please be sure they are passing power. Sometimes it's hard to tell by visual inspection. Pull 'em and test 'em with a meter, or swap in known good fuses to be sure.

 

I looked at all of them, literally every single one just for good measure, all but meter fuse were good. I'll do a continuity test on all related to my issue Monday. Work today, family get together tomorrow then date night with my girl (nationwide meet and mt evans cruise, just in case either of you are in Colorado and going, I'd like to shake hands and thank you in person lol) but monday I'll recheck fuses more thoroughly and report back.