It was a normal cool winter day with temps in the 40's when I started my G for the last time. Yes I know it's been a while since winter, but I didn't have time then.
Storyline below:
I started the engine and finger off of the button I put it in gear. The engine died and never started again. I noticed that the cranking sound is not the same
as it once was. I hate to think that it jumped timing but it kinda sounds similar to my Barracuda when my timing was way off during initial build/start.
I did these things:
1. Checked fuel pressure @ 52psi.
2. Checked spark the only way that I know how, grounding the tip and spin. I have fire.
3. Obvious air.
4. Compression all over the board, remember car ran great before that day..
Bank A: Bank B.
#1. 145 #2. 95
#3. 65 #4. 95
#6. 135 #6. 100
I know these numbers are ugly...
5. Check continuity of cam position sensors, multi-meter set on Mega ohms read 3 sensors measured the same, pin 1-3 3.59, pin 2-3 1.27 and the other pin 1-3 5.46, pin 2-3 1.24.
I changed the range on multi-meter and they were all in the 450 range. I forgot what the setting was.
6. I only touched the crank position sensor. smdh
Anyone that took the time to read all of this, I thank you. If anyone has heard of the same type of issue I would like to hear what resolved the problem if known.
Thanks again to all of y'all.
Update, I got the crank position sensor off and continuity is pin 1-3 3.472 pin 2-3 3.471. I don’t much about the terminology of the ohm settings on this Fluke 115. I grabbed my Southwire meter and it has 2000k, 200k 20k 2000 with ohm symbol only and 200 with same symbol. Only on that 200 it shows OL. Idk what’s up with that. I don’t know if I should keep it or replace it. Or bring the car to a shop to scope it out.

 

A lot of stuff done in that list.. Have you scanned the car for any codes?
Have you inspected the crank sensor plug as it's right by the exhaust and gets very brittle overtime including the wires?

 

Yes I was able to check the crank sensor plug looked normal, the best that I could see. I thought that it would be a real pain in the azz to get to but it wasn't. I plugged in a scan tool (cheapie) no codes pulled, check engine light not on either. I did everything that I know other than spray ether, just to see if it pops. Before i throw parts at it I guess I will bring it to a shop that has good scanners and know more about this than me. I'll post any findings that the shop gets. At $110.00 for initial diag then continuous charge for further diag if needed, I do have a stopping point of cost. Thanks for your input.

 

You can get Consult 3+ OEM level diagnostics for your car for around $400 unless you have a laptop with Win11 then its about $200. You get the Nissan VCX diag plug from VXDiag which they provide you with the software and you can do on your car whatever the dealer would. Or you can get a good scanner like xTool D7W for $400 from amazon and it will do a lot, even program key fobs. Have you downloaded your Factory Service Manual yet?