Last night, it wasn't difficult taking out nuts and bolts from the front oem strut, but I couldn't lower the front arm enough to let the oem strut out. I'll try again asap. Thanks.

 

try using your stock jack against the arm and the inside fender and jacking it slowly. It's a bad technique to use, cause it runs the risk of denting your fender, but it works. just be really really really careful.

 

hahaha! amateur's! good to know you're diy. it's the only way when it comes to parts like this. congrats mang.

 

hahaha... herb, i told you that part was going to be a b*tch. mad props to you for doing it by yourself. good luck with the rest of the install.

 

Yupz, that's the how bah.
Maybe I'll do that last, I haven't tried taking out cotter pin from the upper arm yet, and maybe it should lower the suspension arm enough downward movement to remove the oem shock/spring. Thanks

 

Seems like the Buddy Club's Racing Spec Dampers is the winner here.

 

lol thanks, you're right. It was more b*tch trying not to hopping on the lower arm while filipino girls watching from next door.

 

bang for the buck yeah. go with some Zeal, Silk Roads, or the new Tanabe's if you want something even better.

 

and let me guess...all you heard was, "psss-psss...........pssssssssssssst....aiye-sossss!!!!!!!!!"

 

On both the front and rear...to makes things easier..remove the lower A-arm of the suspension. You will need to use a jack to lift up the arm after though...also use a long screw driver to help in getting the holes realigned after you are done. Look at pic one on the install guide...on the front Pic 4 ....I believe that you will need to remove the bolt on the higher side first...if you remove the lower one first..there is going to be a lot of tension on the other bolt.

Sounds like you are getting through it okay though.

How will the rears be I wonder though since you are not using the springs in the cup anymore.

Goodluck on the completion though.

 

Haha, the pepsi can sound. They're cool people though. Anyways, the rear oem spring is leveraging 123lbs to the wheel, plus the 8Kg spring on the dampner body is leveraging 264lbs to wheel. That creates a total combined wheel rate that is way too high, so no oem springs needed.
With the revised suspension, the rear spring leverages 154lbs to the wheel (31lbs more than OEM's). I think this Japanese manual that came with is not represent oem springs. The new setup up's the spring rate on the rear oem dampner and does away with any spring in the rear oem location.
The bolts was easy, its just that oem shock/spring needs to come out of the cage, I hope taking out cotter pin from the upper arm is the last trick to lower the lower arm atleast about an inch more for the oem shock/spring to fall out. Thanks

 

^ now you can add the awesome Battle Version rods. Battle Version, by Alex P is BADA.SS. period.

 

Ha-ha, that's why, that's the plan!

Anyone like try baking corn bread? lol jp.

 

^ i'd like to see your s.hit mang. call me up.

 

3 hours later; Taking out the cotter pins and the nut from the front upper arms really helps the front lower arms to open up. I completely install the front coilovers, turns out the height is too low, making loud scrapes on the driveway. I think I need to unbolt the front lower arms again just to re-adjust height with the bottom tube links. Too much time was wasted on jacking up the car and doing all that wheel lugs. Now G has a funny look for not installing the rears.

Does the rear sway bar end links need to be unbolt to help the rear lower arms to be lowered enough for the oem shock/springs to fall out? Thanks
Zzzzz