Best Test pipes?
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
is this consumption on +05 6MTs?
I've never been one to baby an engine during break in. As far as I'm concerned - if it was built right to begin with - it shouldn't break after I buy it. After-all - have you EVER test driven a car and drove it as you should during a break in period???? NOT!!! AND isn't that usually the car you end up buying?
Rick
Rick
Originally Posted by Serengettisandg
I have nearly burnt 2 litres in 1000km, I am doing the oil consumption test for infiniti.
I ran across this photo of a converter next to a test pipe and wondered what the object circled in red was. It looks like it might be some kind of mounting point or something. Curious that the test pipe doesn't have one.

I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
Originally Posted by Demonteverde
I had talked to some of the techs at the Infiniti dealership I trust my car with during my last visit there to get some warranty work done and they did confirm to me that there is a problem with some 2005's over consuming engine oil. It went as far as one owner needing a new engine for his car. It still did not cure the problem and he had the dealership buy the car back and the owner instead bought a 2006 G coupe.
I have heard of others having oil comsumption problems with the G35's and have heard of other having their engines replaced.
Originally Posted by _jb
I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
Most testpipes don't have them as they break anyways. Testpipes are much lighter and the brackets aren't really needed anyways.
Rick
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
I've never been one to baby an engine during break in. As far as I'm concerned - if it was built right to begin with - it shouldn't break after I buy it. After-all - have you EVER test driven a car and drove it as you should during a break in period???? NOT!!! AND isn't that usually the car you end up buying?
Rick
Rick
I agree with you to some extent but look around at newbie posts about break-in. I mod on the Evo forum and I frequent here and I see a lot of break-in questions including ones like "I went over 5000 RPMs during break-in, did I do damage?"
There are a lot of people who do break-in like this.
And like you said you have quite a few mods so you can't really count your car as part of the norm.
Originally Posted by _jb
Interesting. Keep us up to date on this, if you could.
I ran across this photo of a converter next to a test pipe and wondered what the object circled in red was. It looks like it might be some kind of mounting point or something. Curious that the test pipe doesn't have one.

I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
I ran across this photo of a converter next to a test pipe and wondered what the object circled in red was. It looks like it might be some kind of mounting point or something. Curious that the test pipe doesn't have one.

I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
Originally Posted by Foo_G
ho many miles/kms do you have on your G?
I have just over 15k miles on mine and no oil issues yet... knock on wood.
I have just over 15k miles on mine and no oil issues yet... knock on wood.
Originally Posted by timzcat
I would like to know how all of these engines with consumption issues were broken in from new. The biggest issue for any oil consumption is ring sealing.
Of course the seating of the compression rings is the single most important thng in a breakin. Infiniti is telling everyone to take it easy on break-in, which is quite honestly a bad idea. You should not be running the thing to redline but you should not be easy on it.
When you hone the cylinder you are creating a cross-hatch pattern to allow oil to be held on the cylinder wall for lubrication. The ill effect of honing the cylinder is the creation of peaks and valleys from the cutting action. The peaks are the issue here. On initial break-in it is the rings job to remove the peaks from the cylinder as cleanly as possible. The best way to accomplish this is to achieve as much ring to wall pressure as possible. If you are not aware the pressure in the cylinder is what pushes the ring out against the wall. FI cars are much easier to break-in because you have added pressure to the cylinder on top of the static pressure. Load on the engine is the only way to increase this pressure.
Of course the seating of the compression rings is the single most important thng in a breakin. Infiniti is telling everyone to take it easy on break-in, which is quite honestly a bad idea. You should not be running the thing to redline but you should not be easy on it.
When you hone the cylinder you are creating a cross-hatch pattern to allow oil to be held on the cylinder wall for lubrication. The ill effect of honing the cylinder is the creation of peaks and valleys from the cutting action. The peaks are the issue here. On initial break-in it is the rings job to remove the peaks from the cylinder as cleanly as possible. The best way to accomplish this is to achieve as much ring to wall pressure as possible. If you are not aware the pressure in the cylinder is what pushes the ring out against the wall. FI cars are much easier to break-in because you have added pressure to the cylinder on top of the static pressure. Load on the engine is the only way to increase this pressure.
Originally Posted by _jb
Interesting. Keep us up to date on this, if you could.
I ran across this photo of a converter next to a test pipe and wondered what the object circled in red was. It looks like it might be some kind of mounting point or something. Curious that the test pipe doesn't have one.
I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
I ran across this photo of a converter next to a test pipe and wondered what the object circled in red was. It looks like it might be some kind of mounting point or something. Curious that the test pipe doesn't have one.
I assume that the other opening is for the o2 sensor.
That is the mounting tab for the catalytic convertor brace. The brace bolts to the bottom side of the tranny and supports the cats(which if you have felt one you will know why) Even still when bolted in they should be held on secure enough to the manifolds to not require the brace, I think it was just a cover their *** issue. My Strup test pipes weigh under 5lbs, there is no way they need a brace to avoid cracking a weld.
Originally Posted by Demonteverde
The object circled in red is for the support bracket that goes between the stock oem cats. The crawford and RT cats can still use the bracket as well...
I thought it looked like some sort of support bracket. It looks like there is a rubber grommet to dampen vibration in the mount. I wasn't sure and thought I'd post the pic.
Originally Posted by Serengettisandg
I will keep you guys posted... I started a new thread a while back, but no one cared so I quit giving updates.
So now we have all hijacked "Virgin G35's" thread...
I think that shows how concerned everyone is with this test pipe/Burning oil issue and that it will not fade away.
Originally Posted by Serengettisandg
That is the mounting tab for the catalytic convertor brace. The brace bolts to the bottom side of the tranny and supports the cats(which if you have felt one you will know why) Even still when bolted in they should be held on secure enough to the manifolds to not require the brace, I think it was just a cover their *** issue. My Strup test pipes weigh under 5lbs, there is no way they need a brace to avoid cracking a weld.
Originally Posted by _jb
I didn't want to hijack your thread, so I started a new one. I was waiting for you to post the results of taking your car back to the dealer after removing the MREV, which you now have done. I am still subscribed to your thread and my thread on this subject.
So now we have all hijacked "Virgin G35's" thread...
I think that shows how concerned everyone is with this test pipe/Burning oil issue and that it will not fade away.
Thanks for the info. I was originally thinking of replacing my Cats with test pipes. I think I'll hold off until this is resolved.
So now we have all hijacked "Virgin G35's" thread...
I think that shows how concerned everyone is with this test pipe/Burning oil issue and that it will not fade away.Thanks for the info. I was originally thinking of replacing my Cats with test pipes. I think I'll hold off until this is resolved.
I was just surprised no one cared about the issue as it seems pretty huge to me. I would hold off on test pipes or high flow cats on your car.
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Sorry virginG35 for the thread Hijack. Let us know if you want us to move out.
I regards to tracking oil consumption is the dipstick is a reliable instrument for measuring the level. The reason I ask is it seems to have a lot of bends in it.
Thanks.
I regards to tracking oil consumption is the dipstick is a reliable instrument for measuring the level. The reason I ask is it seems to have a lot of bends in it.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Foo_G
Sorry virginG35 for the thread Hijack. Let us know if you want us to move out.
I regards to tracking oil consumption is the dipstick is a reliable instrument for measuring the level. The reason I ask is it seems to have a lot of bends in it.
Thanks.
I regards to tracking oil consumption is the dipstick is a reliable instrument for measuring the level. The reason I ask is it seems to have a lot of bends in it.
Thanks.



