I decided to switch out my K&N filter and installed an Amsoil nanofiber filter. They're made for Amsoil by Donaldson- good quality. I can't tell any difference performance-wise, but it is supposed to let less dirt through than the K&N and still perform as good or better than the K&N and not have any worries with oil getting onto the MAF.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaa.aspx

The one for the G is the EAA74.

 

Just got mine.. it's goin' in!

 

from my experience, intakes do absolutly zero for the low end of your car, sometimes even make it worse due to torque loss. On the flip side usually your top end is slightly better becasue the car does deffinatly breathe better. when i say top end i do mean 60-70 mph and up.

if your buying an intake its more of less for the sound it makes.

 

The best all around solution intake-wise for these cars is the Stillen/z-tube combo. You'll get the best bottom end result and and top end band as well. the mid end just flies by.

If you don't care about bottom end - because your an MT, have gears and pulleys or a TQ converter for an AT - then Injen is the best for all around top end -

There's no other considerations out there - for any other reason. Honestly. There are other units to buy - sure, but these are the top results - from the top companies for a reason.

They DO WORK - it depends on what your after. If you just want noise, but don't want to suffer power-wise noticeably anywhere - you SHOULD go Stillen-Z-tube.

This is my opinion - but it is a tested and qualified one.

Rick

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/showpos...45&postcount=8

 

Wow you didn't feel a couple hp on a 280+hp car. Amazing....

What are you trying to say here?

 

Does everyone recommend doing an ecu reset after installing said noismaker and engine dust accumulator? (z tube and kn filter)

 

The only thing to keep in mind with ECU resets is that after ~250 miles, the car will run just about the same as if you did not reset it at all and just waited for it to adjust. Basically a tank of gas and it will do it on it's own.

If you can't wait - then reset the ECU - but it will still take about 80 miles of driving before the real benefit sets it and the ECU adjusts from factory settings and your driving habits. It'll run great for the first hour though!

Rick

 

I couldn't agree more.

 

Mine is tied into my flux capacitor, so when I hit 88mph it's serious power!

 

To ISMSOLUTIONS:
Here is one for you, I've been looking for someone with some test background:

I have an 06 G35 6MT Coupe.

After reading about intake plenum spacers, I decided to get a 5/16". Then I read about the MREV and it said it was specifically designed for the Revup engine. I asked a rep at Motordyne and he said I have that engine. The description says it will add 15HP and 18TQ...Wow!

In our conversation, he described how it works and that the MREV lower plenum is a modified lower plenum for an automatic. This, combined with the spacer gives the desired results. He also said that just adding the spacer to my intake will do nothing because my stock lower plenum already has the short intake ports and thus creates more HP than the plenum meant for the automatic G35. The auto plenum creates more torque because it has longer ports but less air volume due to less area inside the plenum chamber, thus less HP. Follow me?

Now I'm confused...

In my head, putting a lower plenum from an automatic on my 6MT means that now I have the resulting 280HP/270TQ auto engine. 18 LESS HP but 10 MORE TQ. So then adding the spacer for increased volume corrects that and I'm back where I started (hopefully) with HP and I get more TQ.

Does this sound right? It does not seem like a wise decision to me but then maybe I'm wrong about this. I have not installed the system yet so I don't have the "seat of the pants" feel yet.

And what data might you have on the Borla cat back exhaust? Sound? Performance gain/loss?

Thanks!

 

In laymans terms, long intake runners makes for great low/midrange power (non RevUp) and short runners (RevUp) make for great high rpm power. The only way to have the best of both worlds is to have a variable plane intake manifold that incorporates two sets of runners, long and short. A set of butterfly valves opens at a predetermined RPM and the short runners are engaged. Lots of cars have these manifolds (Taurus SHO, 00+ Maximas/Altima, Nissan QR25 Sentras, Contour SVT to name a few). The G35 on the otherhand does not, but the intake manifold has a stellar design in that it does perform nearly like a variable intake manifold even though there are no moving parts. According to Nissan documents on the manifold, it can achieve 95%-110% efficency. That's VERY impressive and not many manifolds, even variable ones, can brag about those specs.

One must understand something, HP sells cars. It's as simple as that. Nissan knew they had to add more power to the Z and G to make it competitive in the market. What they did was revise the intake manifold with shorter runners to increase volumetric effiency in the upper rpms. By making this change (along with other less significant changes), they increased peak power by 13-18Hp depending on model. The downside is that the RevUp lost 10ft/tq at the peak and had less low to midrange power. This is why most people complain about the RevUps soft low and midrange power. What most people don't understand is that when the motor is at full throttle, most of the time is spent in the midrange power band ~4500-5800rpms, not the upper range (5900-6600rpms). Taking away midrange power is deterimental to performance, especially in a drag race, 0-60, 1/4 mile. From a roll race or road course race, it's not so significant because the engine will spend more time in the upper rpms (less need for shifting, long gears ratios).

So, in a nutshell, Nissan gave us a more powerful VQ35....on paper, but if you do the calculations for average power across the powerband (ie power under the curve), you'll see that the RevUp makes no more power than non-RevUp. Power under the curve is that gets you down the track, not peak power. Nissan understands this concept, hence the reason why the RevUp was never introduced in the auto. A RevUp auto would be a total dog around town since the motor spends most of it's time below 3000rpms. At the track, a 298hp 5AT RevUp would be significantly slower than a 260-280hp 5AT non RevUp.

The MREV removes the topend charge from RevUp and restores the midrange power. Thanks to additional variable cam timing of the RevUp, the MREV package works quite well and makes better overall power than the nonRevUp motor with just the MD spacer.

Here are the principles behind runner tuning:

http://www.mne.psu.edu/me415/SPRING0...ke/intake.html

I had the Borla TD on for 5 days or so. Too much resonance, too much transient vibration cuased by the resonance, too much volume for a sport/luxury car, and not the power I was hoping for made me sell it. The guy that bought my Borla installed it on his 05 6MT. It gained a whopping 4-5whp

 

Tony is a great guy and a friend. The MREV with 5/16 spacer rocks and works incredibly well...it's the combo you need to make it all work as best as you can.

And what data might you have on the Borla cat back exhaust? Sound? Performance gain/loss?[/quote]

The Borla was one of my favorite TD systems. The issue of drone and fitment, is what left the bad taste, not to mention some of the worst customer service. The system will only give you a MAX of 6HP to the wheels, and that is when combined with the Stillen or Injen intake and spacer/MREV combo. Other than that, you'll get about 3-4HP average.

The system we designed rocks - you should check it out if you haven't at www.fastintentions.com

Rick

 

Wow! Just the type fo info I needed, thanks!