Wait. So the stock airbox can support a 7500-8000 rpm VQ35 pushing 300+ N/A whp but it cant support a stock VQ35 motor with a spacer. gimme a break.

 

VQ37HR? I believe that one has dual cold airboxes.

 

Waiting on that list Russ

I see your support is overwhelming.

 

I was referencing the 350z list that was posted a while back. I am certain most were the 3.5 and only 2 or so out of 12 had an aftermarket intake. From what I remember they were big name tuners and I cannot imagine them leaving the stock air box on if it was not enough to let them breath. I know there are differences between the G and Z stock intakes but nothing that one part and a plug could not take care of.

 

Ah got it. Dave B posted that. I was of that camp also. But since I got a Stillen for dirt cheap, I bought it and put it in. If I didn't like it, I could sell it.

 

i have a stillen cold air box that is sitting around...

 

Home experimenters should pull a used [or new] oem pleated air filter apart and iron it out flat and measure the square inch area [of filtration] and compare to aftermarket cones or foam or anything............you will see oem is gigantic compared to anything else! Number of pleats x depth of pleats.

As someone who deals with used cars [and people who are 2nd-3rd owners], I recommend that noone buy a used car with evidence [drill holes other signs] of aftermarket air cleaners and mods.........excess ring wear is too expensive to fix.

In US few used buyers try to trace orginal owners and exact retribution, they just kick themselves later for being stupid or blame it on the used car salesman.

Dirt can only get into engine from the air filter [assumming fuel is clean].

 

Calculating area is only part of the equation. Each brand or material has it's own flow characteristics (cotton, sponge, density) . Then you through in the oiled vs non-oiled factor. Length of pipe, path, & diameter of pipe also add into the equation. While we're at it, no filter can flow more than its pipe can handle and no filter can flow much more than its surface area allows (you can pretty much exclude pleats).

edit: No filter flows as much as it would ironed out. The filter must be calculated as assembled.

 

Dave I'm bogarting this pic but it shows what I'm running:



You mentioned that one side of the Stillen should be closed up. But if you look at the pic, the stillen completely seals off the engine side of the engine compartment from the intake area. The area to the right of the cone filter is open yes, and it's in the engine bay. But it's in an area closed off from the reast of the engine bay.

So if you took temp tests of this particular area, then I'm not sure if the tests were skewed a tad because you might not have closed this area off before taking the temp readings?

 

Actually, I want to see the entirely Stillen Airbox sealed up. Any open gaps take away from the slight pressurizing effect of the stock airbox at speeds above 60mph or so. The pressurizing effect is felt most under part throttle acceleration and also on entry into the next gear. Even Klubbheads noticed the difference when he swaped his JWT intake for the stock airbox recently. What use to require a downshift to make it certain grades now can be done without the shift.

 

The JWT intake is not nearly as closed in as the stillen though.

 

i need to read this thread over...

 

that tin shield is not replacement for a stillen cold air box...

 

question...so the JWT allows too much heat (at a dead stop) into the filter...so obviously it doesn't help much at low end...and we want the effect of the stock airbox because it keeps the heat out...but we want the cone filter because if sucks more air in, right??? And the stillen airbox encloses the filter and keeps SOME of the heat out that otherwise would come in, like from the JWT shield...

SO...here's my question...can you take the stock airbox and gut the inside and all that crap in there that restricts air and keep the noise level down, and then drop in one of those K&N aftermarket-OEM replica-filters and a Z tube? Or is that too restrictive? I'm sure inside that airbox are different layers of plastic chambers or something...can't we open it up and just gut everything and make it a big opening and just use an aftermarket filter just like our regular filter but a freeflow one???

 

does anyone have a picture of a cut out/profile of the stock airbox??