I'd like to add that if you do choose to go with an after market air filter, then the Amsoil panel filter would be a good choice. I've used the OEM and K&N, too. But I'm liking the Amsoil.

 

2 years ago with just z-tube and my old exhaust. I put down 246 hp and that same year i put down 262 at church's dynapack.

Recently, no i haven't. If i get the opportunity i will though.

 

I strongly suggest you dyno on a dynojet. And before anybody jumps on my case or brings any kind of dyno bigotry into the thread - I'm not urging you just because its a dynojet. I'm urging you so you can download the run files and do your own analysis. I don't know if dynapacks or dyno dynamics offer the same functionality.

Ultimately, it doesn't matter what your numbers are. Go to a dynojet, make a couple of pulls, and make sure that your last pull is in 4th gear. That way it will go all the way to your raised rev limiter.

Either have the shop mail you your run files, or bring a usb stick and put them on there. When you get home, go to winpep.com, and download the free viewer.

Run the viewer, open your run files, and choose Export Data. Choose comma delimited, and save to a text file.

Open excel, import the text file(as a csv). Trim off anything close to the start of the pull, and anything after say 7 grand. You do this because the dyno technically records a little beyond when the pull stops. Therefore the pull looks like it starts at ~3k(or whereever it started), goes to some top rpm, then loops backwards. If you include these numbers in the trailing rpm range, your numbers will be diluted.

Once you've whittled down the actual rev range, you can make any calculations you want.

Here are a few bits of reference to get you started:
Gear ratios(1st through 5th for 6MT): 3.79, 2.32, 1.62, 1.27, 1.00
To calculate the entry rpm when you shift, use the following expression:
( shift rpm / current gear ratio ) * ( next gear ratio )

Using this expression, then if you shifted from 2nd to 3rd at 7100 rpms, you would enter third at 4961rpms. There's a loss of precision there due to the gear ratios only going to the hundredths, not to mention that shifting speed, clutch slipping, and the revs dropping during the shift, at not accounted for.

Regardless, using that expression, you can get a rough idea of where you would be in the next gear. Then you can see how much power you are making when you shift versus how much you're making when you enter the next gear, at which point you may or may not want to account for torque multiplication of the gearing.

 

so basically if i did a dyno of stock airbox w/ ztube then with jtw popcharger i would see no gain or loss power???

 

Any thoughts on the intake comments? I know Tony was a Stillen intake supporter before when he was originally doing dyno testing on his spacers. I also think you are a Stillen intake guy. I have one too in fact.

 

I never said that. And no one can answer the question for you as each car is different. The only way to *know* is to do it yourself.

** edit - I was responding to Da_ReD_G, not Jeff.

 

Yes, they both do.

I wouldn't have dared to purchase a dynapack dyno if it didn't have that capability.

Its how I do all my analysis of comparative dynos. Exporting the data is when the real fun starts.

 

Yep. The heat shield is much better than all the others. I even went as far as sealing the outer rims of the heat shield with slip on foam to seal out even more of the engine compartment air.

I made a post about it a few years ago, but i don't know if the pic links are still intact.

Seal it if you can. It helps block out more of the hot air when at a stand still.

 

How does one go about calculating the ideal shift point? I'm not talking about knowing what RPM you will land in next gear (as Trey has already addressed that). But ideally, would you always want to shift into the next gear at maximum torque?

If shifting into maximum torque was the case, then why is it that shifting at 7100 RPM from 3rd to 4th yields a better time than shifting at 6800? According to my calculations, if shifting into maximum torque is the ideal shift point, then theoretically, shifting at 6800 RPM would be better off than shifting at 7100 in 3rd as it would land you a few hundred RPM's closer to 5000 RPMS. (My maximum torque occurs during 4600-5000 RPM.)

.

 

^i don't think we will get an accurate answer till we do trial and error at the track. I know last track day i gained over 1mph just by adjusting my shift points.. too bad i did not have enough runs to really experiment with it..

 

yep I use one, it will remain on my car, my car does well.

I wont get into bs over it.

The end.

 

I imagine all dynos have that capability, but do the other dyno manufacturers provide end-user software capable of viewing the runs?

Please, don't interpret my questions/comments as any inherent preference on dyno brand.

 

In my opinion, one would ideally shift at whichever point the rpm in the next gear produces greater hp at the wheels than the current rpm in the current gear. For my car, that shift point is beyond the rev limiter in each gear.

However, that's an oversimplification. Simply calculating the flat hp at the given rpm, and not accounting for gear multiplication, doesn't really work. You would really multiply your wheel hp by the gear ratio.

For example, the gear ratio for 2nd is 2.32, and the gear ratio for 3rd is 1.62. That means that 3rd gear is ~31% taller than second - which, by extension, means that at the same rpm in both gears, 2nd will produce roughly 31% more power than 3rd. You don't have to include the FD ratio in these figures because its unchanged across all gears.

 

Yep. After all the runs I've done, shifting at redline always gets me the best ET & trap speed.

.

 

Thanks for the informative reply. I remember taking off my plenum and it was pretty clean. So I'll remembet to check it again when I have it off (inspect for oil/dirt etc.). I'll figure out a way to get the box completely sealed.