^ going all the way to 7200 RPM on the non revup is not going to help you unless you have aftermarket cams...

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well it drops me into a better spot in my powerband as tony described. It would be better with cams, but it still does better than the stock red line.

 

great analysis Tony... this has become an informative thread... however (correct me if I'm wrong) the shift point calculations apply more to MT than AT?... I don’t drop that many rmp between shifts (AT)...

 

I don't think he ever mentioned that a non revup would benefit by going 500 RPM over the redline.

Have you seen how much the power dips on the non revup after 6700? I don't see any benefit from reving that high when the power drops that much. I've seen a non revup dyno past 7000 RPM (bumped redline) and the power drop was pretty bad.

Take it to the drag strip, test it out, and I can guarantee you will not have better times by revving to 7200 RPM.

If you don't go to the drag strip, im sure Vlad will confirm this at our next track event (for you non revups)

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unless you are AT with 3.7 FD

 

Thanks for the explanation Tony and it makes perfect sense on this dyno since the reading does not go all the way to 7100rpm. So the only time it is worth short shifting is when by the end of the redline u are making less power than next gear u engage in right?

 

Transmission type really doesn't matter; it's just gear ratios. To calculate the rpm in the next gear, use the formula: ( shift rpm / current gear ratio ) * ( next gear ratio )

 

Just redline the **** every gear (6800RPM)

It seems to me that for a non revup, the power trade off by going past 6800 isn't worth it. Which is why with the revups, you should be rev it as high as 7100 RPM since the power drop off from peak power [6300] to redline [7100] (according to my dyno) would only be 9 peak HP. Which in return, lands me in an RPM with much better power as opposed to short shifting.

Im glad Tony explained it the way he did. It makes perfect sense to me and it is proven to get me a better time.

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^+1. My exact thought.

 

You actually drop more RPMs per shift because you have 5 speed rather than 6.

So it becomes even more important with autos.

 

my question was based on the dyno chart shift points you made for Vlad... I don’t believe I drop that many rmp (as expressed on the actual chart – maybe I was reading it wrong or misinterpreting it)...

I guess its a moot point for my car anyway - I'm forced to shift as close to 7200 in order to get though in 3rd...

Thanks for the great contribution to the thread! Turned a ho hum overly discussed topic to a very worthwhile read!

 

Hydrazine & others

hmmmm... returning to the first posts - you guys want to tell that installation of Z-tube instead of stock tube & installation of JWT Pop Charger (or K&N filter) instead of stock air filter are useless & gives no HP & no extra dynamics of acceleration???
And what about MotorDyne Spacer 5/16" - will it be effective & add some HP to my engine?
I planned to install all these devices - now i`m completely embarassed & don`t know what to do.

 

No. Not really. Sorry. I wish they did. I even believed it and purchased them myself... until I dynod them. But they work as sound modifiers.

OTOH, the spacer works. It always dyno's good.

But no need for embarrassment. We all were noobs once. Only some of us are dedicated (or geeky) enough to research mods to this extent.

LOL I'm the one who should be embarrassed!
One way or another, I pay my bills by being a professional geek.

 

It's good to see so many on the Org coming around with regards to aftermarket intakes on these cars. For years, I and a few others got a lot of grief from the supposed "veteran" members on this site concerning the validity of aftermarket intakes and the gains. It's good to see so many now have done the dynos, track testing, and data logs to support the fact that the intakes are nothing more than hot air noise makers. There are a lot of cars that make gains with intake, but the G/Z is not one of them.

 

i was beginning to suggest making this a thread about shifting point rather than the few post in here about intakes...glad to see it back on topic.

I posted some details as to what I did to get what I felt was a happy compromise between sounds and perceived power (no dyno proof) in the velocity stack thread which received some heated debate as well.

If you dont have an air intake system already the same can be done the Z-tube OEM airbox and a nice filter. I had one so i used the Nismo upper tube instead of OEM.

link to thread