Advantages include:

completely sealed from engine heat

becomes pressurized at speed improving throttle response

more laminar airflow at low rpms

Tony at MD has observed heat soak losses from POP, Stillen, anc other intakes in the range of 15whp. How can that be considered a good mod?

 

Sealed in a plastic box with all sorts of goofy nooks and crannies. So much volume that I doubt there's much "pressurization."

So does Tony at MD have any dyno sheets? I'd be especially interested in one that shows back-to-back comparisons of the stock box and the JWT.

 

It has been proven lots of times including by me at the drag strip that JWT is only good for sound. I personally don't care how they look as long as they perform. Those goofy nooks and crannies are there for a reason and there shouldn't be an argument about JWT losing power.

BTW this topic has been discussed 100000 times and should be locked/deleted.

 

I don't care about looks either. I bought the car and it was in dire need of a fresh filter, so I decided to go with what I was familiar with from my years of Z32 ownership - JWT Popcharger. I had a credit at Z1 motorsports, so I used part of that to buy the Z-tube and JWT intake.

But until I see back-to-back dyno sheets, I'll still maintain that the JWT is as good or better than the stock box.

 

Okay, good for you.

 

keep your jwt there is nothing wrong with it, but for new comers, forum members are recommending stock airbox with drop in filter, and ztube. New mod to do now is rev-up air box mod. Due to the larger trumpet.

 

There are no signficant nooks and crannies in the OEM airbox. Also, the airbox can flow WAY more air than any bolt-on VQ35 can hope to ingest. I believe jb's built VQ35 which makes a legit 312whp (about 60whp more than stock) and makes power into the 7500rpm range is still breathing through the OEM airbox. Additionally, there was a comparison test of road race-specd naturally aspirated 350Zs and G coupes from well known race shops and a majority of these cars had OEM airboxes even though these cars were making 20 to 30% more power than stock. That speaks a lot for the OEM design.

The OEM airbox does become pressurized at speed assuming you leave the all the intake snorkels and ducts in place. Once you remove any of these parts or add an aftermarket intake, you loose the pressurization effect and what many call a loss of throttle response.

 

UGGGH! This noob bought his G35 5 years ago and tossed his stock airbox and all its parts the first week he got it home, lol. I wish I knew what I know now a CAI and a Short Ram intake 5 years later. lol. Oh well, I like how the Injen sounds and it looks pretty and shiny in there and it makes it "look" faster lol

 

thats weird since i had my ztube for about a couple months and after popping on JWT pop i noticed a better throttle response....?!?! regardless the VQ makes a ton of heat so ALL 3 are guilty of heat soak regardless of it being concealed...if i open the hood and burn my hand on top of grille and on the hood prop rod im sure the heat gets to the OEM box...

and the sound of JWT is nice but it doesnt "cloud" my judgement on the fact of better throttle response cuz my exhaust deff roars over the JWT sound just like it did with OEMbox/ztube

 

I seriously doubt that the HP differences are within the margin of error of the ANY dyno.

I also don't believe in "Heat Soak". Sure there is heat soak if you sit with the engine running for 5 or 10 minutes, but when you consider the time it take to get the air from the out side of the filter to the inside of the cylinder(at full thottle), the time it takes for heat to transfer from an 3" aluminum tube, you MAY be seeing a .1 deg temp rise max.

If I'm wrong, show me some data that proves otherwise.

 

i was reading your sig. why did you have a mrev2 when your G is a non revup?

 

mrev2 helps even non rev up motors. Just not nearly as much

 

The Revup airbox most likely doesn't gain any power, but it definitely improves throttle response, especially in the low to mid range. It also deepens the induction noise a bit.

You're greatly mistaken about heat soak. Heat soak is a very real thing and it affects the OEM intake has well as every aftermarket setup. However, the difference is the OEM setup is all plastic which doesn't retain heat nearly as bad as a metal pipe. There's a reason you never see metal intake pipes as OEM.

I've datalogged my G with various intake setups. They've ranged from stock to basically a fully open element. I can tell you that sitting at idle for a mere 30 seconds will spike intake temps on ANY setup open to under hood heat into the 135-150 degree range on a 70 degree night. Sucking in air that hot is basicially robbing your VQ of about 7 to 8 whp. With the stock setup, the increase in temp is below 100 degrees. Once rolling, the stock setup drops the intake temps far quicker because all incoming air is being pulled from an ambient source. Exposed element setups require more speed and time to clear out at the underhood heat. When rolling at speeds above 30mph, the intake temps are the same for all setups.

Tony at Motordyne as done far more elaborate testing than myself and even he says to steer clear of aftermarket intakes. That's saying a lot when a tuner steers you clear of one of the easiest and cheapest mods on the market. Tony has field verified heat soak losses from aftermarket intakes in the 10whp range.