hey you have a "BOX O' OEM" too....

 

You inspired me and I sealed the bottom of my stock airbox, except for 3 small holes I drilled for water runoff. I wanted to reacquire the pressurization Jeff92SE spoke of. I also did what OCG35 was suggesting and added 2 additional pin clips to hold the snorkel open as wide as possible. I put my HKS muffler on today and figure I might as well do this while I was working on the car. I am having a friend put my revised Z springs and Z Tokico HP shocks on 04/04.

 

I think there is one small hole in the power duct but other than that I didn't add any. If I get water all the way up in there I think I have bigger problems then what a couple small holes will fix.

I would like to use Cipher one day to log IAT with my modded version and another stock one to see if there is any appreciable gains. Problem is I only know one guy with cipher and I would want to run the logs simultaneous as we both drive the same route to rule out any variances.

 

Last year I blocked off the entire lower airbox and the performance of the car just didn't feel quite right. The motor felt a bit laggy and the intake wasn't very deep sounding. Within 1 minute of driving, I could feel the change.

Over the years, I've tried the following setups:

1) Stock
2) Power duct removed
3) Modified power duct (low lip removed)
4) Power duct removed, over radiator snorkel removed
5) Lower airbox sealed off
6) Plug in the airbox resonator tube.

Out of all those setups, stock and #6 feel like they offer the best drivability. Removing the ducts, modifying them, or sealing off the airbox seems to deaden performance from idle to 4000rpms, making the motor feel slightly flat and laggy, but the motor feels smoother above 5000rpms. Removing those parts also greatly increases inductions noise.