Beats paying $120 to dealership to do it for you.

 

Car is fixed! Thank you very much for your help!!!!!! I hope they will make it a sticky.

 

was the fix persistent relearn procedure (with stop watch)?... almost always is the outcome.

Glad to know you got it under control

If you think about it, try to remember to post here next time you clean it - and let us know if the process of unplugging bat first, then actuator gives better results (I'm almost positive it will, always works for me)... It would be good to have follow-ups from those that run into problems.

now the question = did you notice the difference in acceleration? Every time I clean MAF sensor and TB, its almost like added hp, surprisingly noticeable

 

Yap, did the relearn with a watch and got it right on the second try. The car feeling faster but i think it's also because the ECU reset. Next time i clean the TB i will unplug it first and will post a follow up.

The relearn was easy with the watch....so use i watch when you do it

 

I cleaned my TB this weekend and, of course, high idle. Cold start jumps to 2500 rpm and a warm idle in gear (5AT here) is at 900-1000rpm with warm idle in P/N around 1200rpm. Having come across this thread, I will do the Accel/TB closed/Idle relearn procedure.

I've never cleaned my TB before and of course there was a pretty thick layer of carbon in it. I'm thinking that over the years, as the carbon gets deposited, the computer readjusts the closed valve position to adjust the idle to the correct speed (I didn't notice any idle air bypass valve like on a Ford, so I'm assuming this is how it controls idle speed). Then after cleaning it, the TB is probably in a "too opened" position for correct idle and because it's waaaay out of range, the computer throws a code.

So I think if you clean it often, the idle position won't be too out of range and the computer can adjust itself without freaking out and throwing a code.

 

Well. It took me a while to actually get the idle reset to work, but somehow I got it this morning. All of the times before when I tried to do the TB closed position reset, I listened for any activity but never heard anything. Then this morning I decided to give the idle reset another try and while performing the steps, I finally heard a dull click/thud. Like a TB slamming closed. And when I started the car up, 650rmps! Well, 650rpms after a few seconds of learning. I have no idea what I did different to get it to work this time, but it did. I've used a stopwatch/timer all of the tries before but it never worked.

Anyways. For those with idle speed problems, a reset WILL work despite what others say.

 

just did this to mine... rpm 960 to ~600 a stopwatch helps. Thanks

 

i need to do the resets and hope my idle lowers. when i start the car it is at 1400rpm then drops to no lower that 800 when in drive. hopefully it works.

 

When I cleaned mine, I had the same problem. I tried doing the reset. It would work for a while but then would go back to the high idle and check engine light. Then I took it to my dealership and they did a relearn for $50, hasnt been a problem since then.

 

I just got mine to work. I was doin the reset wrong when it says wait for 20 seconds I would. But then it says wait till th mil light stopps blinking I did that this time instead of 20 seconds. I released the gas pedal soom as it stoped blinking waited 3 seconds and started the vehicle. Before I was at 800 and started at 1500 now I am at 600 650 and starts at 1000 I'm happy. Now just gotta wait for the engine light to turn off

 

Very nice... maybe I need to try a few more times because each time I do it, it's been better but when I come to a rolling stop, the car jerks as if it doesn't know where to idle. After a few minutes of that, the SES light turns on. I did it again today and drove around to run errands and the car jerks but not has hard or often and no SES.

If the SES light comes up again I'll probably do an overnight battery disconnect and try the relearn again.

Thanks everyone, it's nice to see this thread still alive. Kinda sucks that so many people have this problem, but it's nice to know what everyone tried to get it working again.

 

I gave it 2 weeks (with two or three tb/idle relearns) and it still jerked when coming to stops and the RPM would dip down low (300-400 RPM) causing the engine to shutter and eventually show the SES. I ended up purchasing a rebuilt throttle body from RockAuto parts (one of the cheapest places I found). Installed it and did the relearn process again and it was better right from the first start.

 

Did this over the weekend and problem solved. I didn't remove harness or disconnect battery. Simply removed throttle body to clean both sides as there is enough room to move it around while still attached to the harness. Started up with high RPM's and let it idle back down and it has been solid ever since. No more fluctuation at stoplights or at idle. Great thread!!

 

Good info, make sure to unplug the battery when doing this so the car relearns after you clean the TB

 

had the high idle problem after cleaning the TB. My idle was around 1100. tried relearn numerous times with a stop watch with no results. I disconnected the battery overnight and started the car now and the idle is back to normal and where it should be around 850 (i have cams). i know im bumpin the thread, but i wanted to be helpful.