I know this topic has been discussed, but I wanted to throw out something. My guess is manually moving the throttle is what messes it up. Probably either moving it too fast open or holding it WOT and letting it spring close gets it out of calibration. To me, it makes sense, assuming it is a calibration issue. I guess I'll just go sit in the car for 30 minutes and just repeatedly do the relearns.

cheers

Joe Mac

 

If you're lucky you won't need a new throttle body, but chances are you will. You're car will never again idle the way it should if it is damaged.

Good luck.

 

its not gonna work dude. U will need to get a new throttle body, or a refurbished one. Guys, please dont clean ur Tb's. it gives a big headache, and usually people have high idle issues. If you have to clean it, make sure to do it from a mechanic who specializes in our cars.

 

My tb was off for 2-3 weeks… first I cleaned it = open the hell out of the plate cleaned the entire bore, plate & plate edges – then the tb went to shop and was black chrome painted (I did tell them to be careful)… then tb went to machinist twice for measurements for custom clamps – each time between shops was behind seat of truck (but protected pretty good in small box with paper stuffing.

Installed with a bunch of other stuff this weekend – and granted I expected to do the learning procedures (been down that road before) – but I fired it up and no SES light, no erratic idle, no high idle, nothing. Worked as if it had never been off.

The trick is making sure you disconnect bat if you are disconnecting the actuator plug… and don’t move plate if you don’t have both disconnected… I’ve taken mine on & off several times and cleaned, etc.. and only once did I have a real issue with high idle (the learning procedure fixed after a couple attempts) – but I’ve realized it can be done without problems.

I don’t know why some of you are having to buy new TBs… I’ve positive yours didn’t go through as much rigor as mine did this last go around… are you dropping them on the ground or something?

 

^agreed....you guys just dont know what you are doing. I have polished and cleaned a dozen or so of these (inside and out) and have only had 2 end up with an off-idle. After the reset procedure.....BAM..just like new.

 

Mine high idled for about a day or two and went back to normal. Nothing to worry about. I cleaned mine twice also. Throttle body cleaning dose not require some high-tech mechanic to do.

 

Hopefully it'll go away, but this was Saturday, and I've driven over 200 miles since.

 

I had some serious issues with mine. It would not reset. I have a friend at NISSAN who tried to do the relearn procedure but to no avail. I had to buy a new one.

I handled it very carefully but I did manually open and close the butterfly valve. I can only assume that the butterfly valve movement was the cause of problem.

 

Manually openening the throttle plate will ruin a throttle body... period.

 

You need to do the throttle relearn procedures correctly.

 

That is completely inaccurate. Period.

 

+1000000000

I abused the h3ll out of mine in the couple times i cleaned it. Pushed open and closed that flap ten millions times to get between the nooks and crannies. Mine runs perfect afterwards, in fact, it may be running a lot better. I think it might be the key thing to disconnect your battery before unplugging the TB.

AND...those dealership telling you that you need a new TB must've not known any better. Plus it's a lot easier for them to just swap it out for a new one since they're not paying for it out their pockets.

 

I think you are correct... any time I remove the TB, I disconnect neg bat before doing anything else.

 

i cleaned mine too with a carb spray cleaner, and wiped off the nasty stuff around the plate. so yeah, basically the plate moved several times. unfortunately i got a rough/high idle after re-installing it. i tried the three procedures to reset the throttle body but didnt have any luck. anyone have a tip on performing these?

A. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure.
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds (how would you know if you get it right?)


B. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound (i never get this right because i never heard anything)

C. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It's best to time with a watch/clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11 Wait 20 seconds
12Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. (this is fine because SES light lets you know if you did it right the way it blinks)

 

^the tip is that your timming has to be perfect. I did DKatman's on Sunday and it reset after the first try. His idle instantly went from 2000 to ~800