Hey all. Dynoed my car bone stock then installed the manifold and spacer while on the dyno. I lost HP and Torque everywhere except 4400 rpm where I gained 4 hp! I lost 15 hp starting at 6000 rpm to redline. The instructions were followed to a T.

Any help or clues would be greatly appreciated!

Update: Changed title name as I don't beleive my indicated power failure was caused by MotorDyne! I must have another problem I cant figure out

 

which spacer?

 

uh oh.

 

Did you also remember to reset your ECU?

 

5/8 spacer with iso/ copper throttle body spacer. ECU fuse was pulled. Kit was installed at a local performance shop and the installer was amazed at how well the instructions were. He called me after he dynoed it and he checked all over for vacuume leaks. He was shocked at the total loss of power.
I'll post dyno in the morning.

 

You never know, something could of happened when they were installing it and they are not telling you. But I read from other threads that the MREV2 doesn't do anything for non rev up engines.

But the 5/8 spacer should of helped for gains. Guyz correct me if I am wrong about this.

 

He has the revup^^

I wonder if they messed up your throttle body. Does it idle OK?

 

Some other variable must be involved if you lost power.

The question is what?

Was this a dyno installation?
There are many, many variable that must be controlled (held constant) to create an accurate test.

 

Vacuume leaks wont affect the dyno results unless they are really, really large.
But if your idle is good, you don't have a leak.

How is your idle?

 

I would like to see before and after dyno's

 

Idle is perfect.
Stock dyno. We both thought the Torque was off though.


Car never left dyno during install. I wanted good repeatable numbers. The temp went down 3 degrees between runs, that is all.

Dyno after install:


I was at work during install, car is still strapped to the dyno. Sorry for the poor quality, these are phone camera shots as the operator was and is still very confused with the results.

 

I'm not exactly sure what role changing out the spark may have played. If the ECU optimized spark timing to the old plugs and new plugs were installed between the plenum change out, new plugs may have changed the new optimum spark point... before the ECU had time to relearn a new spark map. It would be preferable to not have that as a new variable.

Also, I do recommend unplugging the battery negative as opposed to just unplugging the ECU fuse. Current is constantly flowing through the throttle body. Even when the car is off.
So when you install the Copper Iso Thermal, when its unpluged, other parts of the electrical system may object to it.

Unplugging the fuse may have the same effect as disconnecting the battery negative but I personally have never tried this so I can't confirm the effect up or down.

I do know one thing for sure, the electrical system on this car is highly networked and a lot of it is powered up even if the key is removed.

As for the baseline dyno. How does it compare to other Z's and G's that have been tested on the same dyno?

In any event, I am sure something else is affecting your dyno results. Its much too low.

 

Ok, after hours of playing with this and talking to Tony from Motordyne I've come to the conclusion that my car hates me!
We took the plenium totally off and rechecked everything. Re dynoed it and lost even more power!
One thing that is constant is that while dynoing the slip, abs, and vdc lamp is lit. I have turned it off by the switch but during the run it comes back on??
Is there a secret on keeping it off?
I'm guessing the ecu is cutting back power/throttle as when we go for a test ride the lamps turn off and the car runs great!
I've decided to leave the plenium on for the time being as there are no stored codes and it seems to run good.
Just wish I had dyno proof to back up the claim!

Also, I want to thank Tony @ motordyne for spending so much time on the phone with us trying to figure this out!!!

 

Unless I'm misreading your post, having all those lights on simultaneously indicates there is something wrong with your car. I had a similar problem, later found out it was a broken magnetic camshaft sensor. You may or may not have a similar issue, but I know those lights shouldn't be turning on together randomly.

Incidentally this also happened right after I did my 5/16" MD spacer install. I thought the spacer had something to do with it and even contacted Tony, who was extremely helpful and patient with me. Could not ask for better customer service. As it turned out it was something completely different, and I've had the spacer on ever since without a single problem.

 

Cam sensor? Wow! I can't see how that would turn on the slip & ABS lamp while dynoing (Vdc already on) but who knows?
That's why I'm asking!