Hey guys,

Just got my JWT Popcharger and Z-Tube in the mail yesterday from EverythingG35 (http://www.g35parts.com) and I just had a few things to say about it and my experience with EverythingG35.

Company: EverythingG35 was great. The site is a little difficult to navigate in my opinion but it works. They shipped the items out the following day and I had them two days later. Very pleasant experience.

Instructions: I didn't really need this, as changing the stock intake on the G is a very simple process. However, the JWT Popcharger does not come with instructions for changing out your factory intake pipe - which you'll want to do and hence, the z-tube. For anyone who isn't familiar with the experience, instructions are at the end of this post.

I installed this with a buddy of mine and it took no more than 30 minutes (don't be alarmed by the length of instructions - there is a lot of detail to help with the lack of pictures. If the response to this post is enough, I'll do a tear-down and re-install with pictures).

First Impressions: WOW. That's all I'm going to say here to save the rest for the categories below.

Sound: You'll notice this as soon as you press the gas pedal. You'll hear the suction of your new Z-tube. The engine sound is deeper, you can hear the whistle of a nice intake, and the exhaust tone drops a notch (if you didn't think it wasn't possible for a stock exhaust to sound better and more unique - you were wrong). I was skeptical about getting this because I figured people were just blowing smoke when they talked about the sound of this intake. They aren't. It truly does sound like you have a bear under the hood of your car under WOT. When you push the pedal to the floor, people can hear it. It sounds like you're driving a V8, and it sounds clean. The sound really kicks in past 4K, but you can still drive quietly if you want to.

Performance: This intake makes a difference. With the stock intake, power used to drop off past 6K (around 6,200RPM). With this intake, it still pulls and you can feel it. Throttle response is quicker, sound is better. With the Z-tube and Popcharger, you'll probably add between 6 and 10 HP to your setup. Not bad for the $200 investment. Plus, your car can breathe better now. This means better theoretical MPG (which you'll never get because you'll be driving under WOT just to hear the Popcharger roar) and again, better throttle response.

Overall Impression: Buy it. If you're on the edge about the setup, just get it. You won't regret it. I was debating between a short-ram and cold-air setup, but I decided on the Popcharger because I have driven through a few puddles and don't want to risk destroying my car with a cold-air. Plus, with the included heatsink, heatsoak is not quite as bad with this intake as it might be with others. When I took my buddy for a drive after the install was done, the first thing he said was "WOW" followed by, "This is the most dramatic difference I have ever heard an intake make on a car, ever." My immediate response was the same. I love this setup, and I do not regret it.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have, I'll try to answer them.

-----===== INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS =====-----

1. Remove the engine cover (if any) to allow access to the throttle body and plenum
2. Remove the clamp holding the factory intake piping to the throttle body
3. Remove the bolt attaching the factory intake assembly to the plenum
4. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the clamp attaching the emissions hose to the factory intake piping
5. Remove the clamp attaching the factory intake piping to the Mass Air Flow sensor and chamber
6. Pull the intake piping away from the throttle body with light force (don't pull too hard, you'll see why in a second)
7. Once the intake pipe is off of the throttle body, pull up on the pipe lightly. You may have to shake a little back and forth, but pay attention to the 8 inches of silencing pipe attached to the intake tube. This is precisely what the Z-Tube fixes.
8. With the factory intake pipe out, disconnect the Mass Air Flow adapter from the MAF chamber.
9. Remove the clips retaining the factory air scoop (the one in the middle of the grill, not the air box to your right)
10. Remove the bolt connecting the factory air box to the chassis (located near where the MAF chamber was, the stray bolt to the right)
11. The air box should pull up - it will take some force because it does clip in below
12. Attach the emissions hose to the new Z-Tube and push it onto the throttle body, making sure that the metal attachment for the Z-tube is directly on top of the pipe-mount on the plenum.
13. Remove the 4 bolts on the back of the JWT Popcharger, and the 4 bolts on the back of the factory air box that hold the MAF chamber on.
14. Connect the MAF chamber to the Popcharger using the supplied bolts
15. Take your heatshield, after correctly installing the rubber seals, and loosely attach the mounting bracket.
16. Place the heatshield and mounting bracket over the metal below where the factory air box sat, and bolt the heatshield to the chassis.
17. With the heatshield in place, take the remaining rubber seal and put it around the outlet for the factory air scoop.
18. Slide the air scoop into the hole on the side of the heatsink and use the retaining clips to set it properly in the center of the grill where it was
19. Use the supplied L-bracket to connect the factory air scoop to the JWT's heatshield
20. Place the filter/MAF chamber assembly in the now-heat-shielded area of your engine bay and rotate it so the MAF adapter points to the right
21. Slide the MAF chamber assembly into the Z-tube using the factory clamp that you removed in step 5
22. Reconnect the MAF chamber and use the twisted bracket that came with the Popcharger to secure the new filter to the chassis (you will have to remove one of the MAF chamber bolts from the filter to do this)
23. Congratulations. You are done. Put the car back together, but don't start it up yet.

Don't be alarmed! I just outlined every step as much as possible. The whole process took me 30 minutes.

At this point, you'll want to reset the ECU and do the Idle Air Volume learning test, so here are the instructions for that. Remember, timing is crucial to this process.

1. Turn the key to the "ON" position and wait 3 seconds
2. Do the following QUICKLY 5 times within 5 seconds
   • Fully depress the gas pedal
   • Fully release the gas pedal
3. Wait 7 seconds
4. Full depress the gas pedal and hold it for 10 seconds (the CEL should start blinking during this time)
5. Fully release the gas pedal and wait 10 seconds (the CEL should remain blinking - if it stops, start the process over)
6. Fully depress the gas pedal for another 10 seconds (the CEL should still be blinking)
7. Fully release the gas pedal and wait 10 seconds (once again, the CEL should be blinking)
8. Turn the key to the "OFF" position
9. Start your car and ensure the Check Engine Light isn't on. If it is, repeat these steps and check your timing! Timing is important. If it still stays on, check to make sure your clamps and connections are good on your new intake.

Next, you'll want to start your car up and let it warm up. You may even want to take it for a little drive with your new intake and play with it. Once it's warm, park it, and follow these steps:

1. Get your steering wheel pointed straight ahead, the engine warm and sitting at its normal idle, and the PNP switch in neutral (6MT owners - push your clutch in)
2. Turn your car to the "OFF" position
3. Wait at least 10 seconds
4. Repeat steps 1-3 of the ECU reset procedure above
5. Fully depress your pedal for approximately 20 seconds until the CEL STOPS blinking
6. When the CEL stops blinking, wait 3 seconds and then release the pedal
7. Turn your key to the off position

Enjoy your new intake and your fresh ECU.

 

Nice write up, I'm running the same setup. It was really nice when I was running my stock exhaust, now the only time I can really hear it is a little suction type noise when I shift. But still a nice mod although I wouldn't buy it for the price it is new.

 

I needed to change my filter anyway, I figured I'd use the opportunity to change the whole setup. That was how I justified it. I still think it's a great sound and a great setup.

I appreciate the feedback.

 

I had that setup. Sounded great my first mod. I would have kept it but I felt it got sluggish when the temperature reached 90+ and the car is at a standstill. Even with the heat soak I kind of miss it.

 

We'll see how the heat soak issue affects me. So far it seems to be running excellent and pulling hard, but the temps have been around 70 where I'm at.

 

Pass on the popcharger, too much heatsoak. Keep the Z-tube as its only for sound anyway. No power gains at all.

 

I agree heatsoak is an issue - potentially. Although I know on this car the 2005 stock air box isn't doing much to help either. IIRC, the 2006 air box is slightly different and helps prevent heatsoak. From what I read the temperatures really aren't any different. I'll be doing some data logging with the car so I'll probably do a few airbox vs popcharger intake temperature readings and see what I can find out. I'll keep you updated, but expect it to be about a week since I'll be without the OBDII reader while I'm away.

 

I think the popcharger works best with spring/fall-like weather, 50-60 degrees, you can feel the oomph.

The 2006 revup airbox has a bigger velocity stack and allows more air than the 05. I don't believe its any different heat shielding wise. But I've tried both and there isn't a difference imo. Then again I'm NA so lack of air into the engine really isn't a problem.

Anyway I'll be interested to see what you log in temperature wise.

 

I didn't think there was a difference between the REVUP 05 airbox and the REVUP 06 airbox. Exact same air box. In fact, the 05 and 06 REVUP airboxes have the same part number.

 

sorry meant to say the revup airbox in general as opposed to my stock 05 AT airbox.

 

ah big deal, if it super hot outside I shouldn't be running my car like it is at the drag strip and expect perfect power. i don't really believe the stories of potentially stalling due to heat soak as i have done stop in go at like 100 degrees with no prob

 

Nice review. Just installed mine a couple of days ago. I don't notice that much of a difference, except for the noise at the mid to high rpms. I got it used, so I don't mind.

 

I never stalled. It just felt sluggish off a stop.

 

Nice review. But I'm hard-pressed to believe that this setup will net you 6-10 whp....

 

It may not, that's the supposed gain, at 6,500RPM I believe. Up until 6.2K (which is where the G drops off power with the stock intake) the gain is next to nothing (0.5HP maybe?)