Headers!! Help!
#16
10-22-2010, 12:21 PM
#18
10-22-2010, 02:51 PM
Show me some dynos showing that the mechanical fan is actually sucking out power when not engaged and I'd do it tomorrow. Only one person has done a before and after dyno of the e-fan conversion and the comparison dyno plot was poor and "noisy", but overall, the numbers only improved by about 2-3whp or so, if I remember correctly. I can see the mechanical fan sucking out more power than the e-fans when the units are actually engaged (which is rare), but under normal conditions (ie the mechanical fan is not engaged and merely free spinning), I have a hard time believing there is a signicant loss of power. I'm totally open to be proven wrong, but I need data to support your claim other than just "Trailblazer SS' make 20whp from the e-fan conversion so the same thing applies to the G's e-fan swap" or "it feels more responsive" or "it feels faster" or "I pulled a Z06 after installing the e-fans"
Back on topic to the ARP studs, so what you're saying is to remove the stud bolts, then remove the OEM studs, then the manifolds easily slid out and the new headers slid in because of the freed up space because you don't have to snake the headers in around the oem studs. The shorter ARP bolts, rather than a stud and bolt, then results in an easier install. Again, because of clearance and accessibility. Sounds to me like a pretty simply solution to the header install nightmare.
How do the headers go in with the studs removed? If the steering knuckle isn't disconnected, then I assume the headers go in from the top on the driver's side and from the bottom on the passenger side because the coolant pipe blocks install from the top.
#19
10-22-2010, 03:25 PM
Show me some dynos showing that the mechanical fan is actually sucking out power when not engaged and I'd do it tomorrow. Only one person has done a before and after dyno of the e-fan conversion and the comparison dyno plot was poor and "noisy", but overall, the numbers only improved by about 2-3whp or so, if I remember correctly. I can see the mechanical fan sucking out more power than the e-fans when the units are actually engaged (which is rare), but under normal conditions (ie the mechanical fan is not engaged and merely free spinning), I have a hard time believing there is a signicant loss of power. I'm totally open to be proven wrong, but I need data to support your claim other than just "Trailblazer SS' make 20whp from the e-fan conversion so the same thing applies to the G's e-fan swap" or "it feels more responsive" or "it feels faster" or "I pulled a Z06 after installing the e-fans"
Back on topic to the ARP studs, so what you're saying is to remove the stud bolts, then remove the OEM studs, then the manifolds easily slid out and the new headers slid in because of the freed up space because you don't have to snake the headers in around the oem studs. The shorter ARP bolts, rather than a stud and bolt, then results in an easier install. Again, because of clearance and accessibility. Sounds to me like a pretty simply solution to the header install nightmare.
How do the headers go in with the studs removed? If the steering knuckle isn't disconnected, then I assume the headers go in from the top on the driver's side and from the bottom on the passenger side because the coolant pipe blocks install from the top.
Back on topic to the ARP studs, so what you're saying is to remove the stud bolts, then remove the OEM studs, then the manifolds easily slid out and the new headers slid in because of the freed up space because you don't have to snake the headers in around the oem studs. The shorter ARP bolts, rather than a stud and bolt, then results in an easier install. Again, because of clearance and accessibility. Sounds to me like a pretty simply solution to the header install nightmare.
How do the headers go in with the studs removed? If the steering knuckle isn't disconnected, then I assume the headers go in from the top on the driver's side and from the bottom on the passenger side because the coolant pipe blocks install from the top.
You can install certain headers (Top Speed, Megan, Stillen, DC Sports) through the drivers side.
you have to go in a 180 and wiggle it a bit but it'll get in there, you may also have to turn the steering wheel but it is possible
.regardless it's a pain in the a$$ to remove the studs, before replacing studs I'd just install the damn thing(s).
Fan clutch:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-once-all.html
#20
10-22-2010, 03:44 PM
??????? wow maybe i shouldve done a write up on this. The studs come out with ease (1/4 ratchet with and inverted torx socket). Never had any problems and shaved plenty of time off the install. As with the crawford headers (my car) I had no clearance issues and didnt pull coolant or the steering. And as many know crawfords are some of the hardest to install. PM me if you need further advice. later mike
#21
10-22-2010, 03:57 PM
??????? wow maybe i shouldve done a write up on this. The studs come out with ease (1/4 ratchet with and inverted torx socket). Never had any problems and shaved plenty of time off the install. As with the crawford headers (my car) I had no clearance issues and didnt pull coolant or the steering. And as many know crawfords are some of the hardest to install. PM me if you need further advice. later mike
#23
10-22-2010, 06:44 PM
#24
07-03-2011, 01:35 PM
Top Speed are very good headers that also are not as costly as they counterparts. Which prompts me to ask why is it position in the 6 slot, also Top Speed has a very appealing tone. Also Stillen headers are basically the same as Nismo and it produces better results.
#25
07-03-2011, 01:36 PM
#26
07-04-2011, 08:23 AM
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