R2C Intake - Redesigned
#16
what i want to know is why in your op do you say that you are still awaiting for the arrival of your tube? yet they used your car to do the dyno runs with? wouldnt they have just given you a 90 dollar tube for letting them use your car? its not like its a 4000 dollar sc setup they were letting you test. something sounds fishy about that. just sayin
#17
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be a jerk, but what exactly sets this intake apart from any other POP style intake? It looks just like everything else out there. A metal conductive intake pipe that's going to heat badly and a filter exposed to underhood air temp.Going off the power claims, I have a hard time believing this intake making well over 10whp/wtq more than stock. Too bad no one has done an independent dyno test with this intake.
However, 10 hp seems a little much to me... I know a lot of people are down on aftermarket intakes here, but to my knowledge there has still not been any before and after dyno testing comparing them after a tune. I remember the guys at Technosquare saying that you needed a tune to see any benefit from them.
Also, I still don't see the point of getting this polished aluminum tube unless you're going for looks. A used Z-tube can be had for cheaper and will (theoretically) produce more power because of less heat soak.
#18
what i want to know is why in your op do you say that you are still awaiting for the arrival of your tube? yet they used your car to do the dyno runs with? wouldnt they have just given you a 90 dollar tube for letting them use your car? its not like its a 4000 dollar sc setup they were letting you test. something sounds fishy about that. just sayin
#19
I'm not saying you're making anything up, but why doesn't RC have before and after dynos of their intakes vs stock? In Rob's stickied intake test, RC told him that independent dynos had been done for their intake, yet they wouldn't provide him with the data. I for one have yet to see a before and after dyno. And like I said before, what exactly seperates this intake from any other filter on a stick out there? Metal tubes will most definitely heat soak and raise intake temps. This can't be measured from the MAF because the MAF is upstream and there are no sensors downstream. I'm not terribly concerned about filtration as I replace my filter every year. I've had serviceable dry filter before and they eventually clog/break down. There's only so much that an air gun can do at pushing out debris from the media. It's inevitable that dust/debris gets logded in the media.
#20
IMO, the reason they say the metal pipe is so much better is because it's easier to manufactuer. Extruding plastic in relatively small batches is more expensive than finding a place to do minor mandrel pipe bending and powercoating/painting. Also, a round pipe will generally have better flow characteristics than a retangular one. That's why more OEM intake piping round and plastic. Better flow and reduced thermal impacts.
I for one have nothing against these guys, but I also don't have much faith in manufactuer's dyno data. Tony at Motordyne has done extensive testing of intakes over the years. He has a dyno in garage and has the ability to test anything he comes up with. His opinion is the OEM setup is ideal for overall performance. Intakes, such as this, have a shield, but it does not completely seal the airbox from underhood heat. There are still many sources of hot air that will enter from the front, sides, below, etc. The OEM airbox pulls in air from outside the engine compartment. This one does a better job than most POPs, but it's far from ideal. When driving at slow speeds or at a stop, intake temps will skyrocket with this type of intake. Instead of seeing the typical 10 to 20 degrees over ambient with stock, these types of intakes will see 40 to 80 degrees over ambient. Motordyne has verified 10 to 20whp losses with aftermarket intakes, largely due to excessive underhood heat. With the hood up, the gains are minimal, if any. He's dynoed the G pipe vs the Z pipe and saw no changes in power. If there were gains to be found with intakes, Motordyne would have certainly made an intake by now because they're so cheap and easy to build. However, Motordyne tends to not sell parts that don't improve performance.
As for filter size, the OEM airbox has more than enough capacity to supply even a full bolt-on VQ35DE. The airbox can flow enough air for well over 300whp. The OEM airbox is not a restriction.
I for one have nothing against these guys, but I also don't have much faith in manufactuer's dyno data. Tony at Motordyne has done extensive testing of intakes over the years. He has a dyno in garage and has the ability to test anything he comes up with. His opinion is the OEM setup is ideal for overall performance. Intakes, such as this, have a shield, but it does not completely seal the airbox from underhood heat. There are still many sources of hot air that will enter from the front, sides, below, etc. The OEM airbox pulls in air from outside the engine compartment. This one does a better job than most POPs, but it's far from ideal. When driving at slow speeds or at a stop, intake temps will skyrocket with this type of intake. Instead of seeing the typical 10 to 20 degrees over ambient with stock, these types of intakes will see 40 to 80 degrees over ambient. Motordyne has verified 10 to 20whp losses with aftermarket intakes, largely due to excessive underhood heat. With the hood up, the gains are minimal, if any. He's dynoed the G pipe vs the Z pipe and saw no changes in power. If there were gains to be found with intakes, Motordyne would have certainly made an intake by now because they're so cheap and easy to build. However, Motordyne tends to not sell parts that don't improve performance.
As for filter size, the OEM airbox has more than enough capacity to supply even a full bolt-on VQ35DE. The airbox can flow enough air for well over 300whp. The OEM airbox is not a restriction.
#21
^ very well said
And I'd like to add one more thing:
OP, if you can get us an independent stock vs R2C intake dyno and show the improvement, I will be the first in line to buy one as many many others on here will...
Again, don't forget, the "improvement" you felt while driving around is all in your head due to the increased sound...thats the main reason why people get intakes for our cars in the first place, and then automatically assume that louder sound = more power...when they couldn't be more wrong...
And I'd like to add one more thing:
OP, if you can get us an independent stock vs R2C intake dyno and show the improvement, I will be the first in line to buy one as many many others on here will...
Again, don't forget, the "improvement" you felt while driving around is all in your head due to the increased sound...thats the main reason why people get intakes for our cars in the first place, and then automatically assume that louder sound = more power...when they couldn't be more wrong...
#22
Registered User
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i was looking at the stock ram air duct on my g the other day and was trying to figure how the hell air gets sent through the little narrow openings and into the airbox to provide enough air for the intake to suck in the air it needs?
btw r2c should jus sell the fiter and enclosure thing. looks like more would be interested in that
btw r2c should jus sell the fiter and enclosure thing. looks like more would be interested in that
#23
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#25
JWT's heatshield is a joke and so is RC's. The whole heatshield thing is so silly. OK, it protects a bit against radient heat, but how in the world does it stop 140+ degree air from not entering the filter at slow speeds or stops. Do people not understand how atmospheric gases work
The RC shield does a better job, but it IS NOT A SEALED BOX. Period. End of story. There are still gaps/voids open to the underhood air with the RC shield. The OEM airbox and inlets seal up against the hood and air is pulled in from outside the engine compartment. The RC shield has enough void space to perform like removing the Powerduct from the OEM airbox. Just removing this duct cover allows for much higher air intake temps at slow speeds and stops. I've datalogged this a couple times. At a stop with a warm engine and 80 degree ambient temps and the duct removed, intake temps range from 130 to 140 degrees vs about 95 degrees with the duct installed. Ouch.
The RC shield does a better job, but it IS NOT A SEALED BOX. Period. End of story. There are still gaps/voids open to the underhood air with the RC shield. The OEM airbox and inlets seal up against the hood and air is pulled in from outside the engine compartment. The RC shield has enough void space to perform like removing the Powerduct from the OEM airbox. Just removing this duct cover allows for much higher air intake temps at slow speeds and stops. I've datalogged this a couple times. At a stop with a warm engine and 80 degree ambient temps and the duct removed, intake temps range from 130 to 140 degrees vs about 95 degrees with the duct installed. Ouch.
#26
^ one of these intake companies should make an intake similar to the OEM airbox that has a sealed box but with a big round cone filter, i think that would be the only intake that would be a bit better than the OEM intake, and even then im not sure if there really would be any benefits vs oem....
#27
^ one of these intake companies should make an intake similar to the OEM airbox that has a sealed box but with a big round cone filter, i think that would be the only intake that would be a bit better than the OEM intake, and even then im not sure if there really would be any benefits vs oem....
#28
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
JWT's heatshield is a joke and so is RC's. The whole heatshield thing is so silly. OK, it protects a bit against radient heat, but how in the world does it stop 140+ degree air from not entering the filter at slow speeds or stops. Do people not understand how atmospheric gases work
The RC shield does a better job, but it IS NOT A SEALED BOX. Period. End of story. There are still gaps/voids open to the underhood air with the RC shield. The OEM airbox and inlets seal up against the hood and air is pulled in from outside the engine compartment. The RC shield has enough void space to perform like removing the Powerduct from the OEM airbox. Just removing this duct cover allows for much higher air intake temps at slow speeds and stops. I've datalogged this a couple times. At a stop with a warm engine and 80 degree ambient temps and the duct removed, intake temps range from 130 to 140 degrees vs about 95 degrees with the duct installed. Ouch.
The RC shield does a better job, but it IS NOT A SEALED BOX. Period. End of story. There are still gaps/voids open to the underhood air with the RC shield. The OEM airbox and inlets seal up against the hood and air is pulled in from outside the engine compartment. The RC shield has enough void space to perform like removing the Powerduct from the OEM airbox. Just removing this duct cover allows for much higher air intake temps at slow speeds and stops. I've datalogged this a couple times. At a stop with a warm engine and 80 degree ambient temps and the duct removed, intake temps range from 130 to 140 degrees vs about 95 degrees with the duct installed. Ouch.
^ one of these intake companies should make an intake similar to the OEM airbox that has a sealed box but with a big round cone filter, i think that would be the only intake that would be a bit better than the OEM intake, and even then im not sure if there really would be any benefits vs oem....
i for one decided to go with a nismo cai with ztube combo. g35parts.com had a great deal on it for only $233 and with some discounts in the end ill only be paying about $150 for it. ive done my research on intakes so please no performance lectures about it. i did it for the sound (cus i miss the intake sound) and as long as i dont lose power im happy. and i dont want sri and the only way to keep cool air into the intake was stock or cai
#30
i have the R2C and I can tell u it does not produce 10 hp.. i have the dyno as well.. The 5/16 spacer is what made the hp on my car and it wasn't much.. it did smooth out the power band, but that was from the spacer.. not the R2C intake... one thing I can say it did sound better at 3K rpms