For those of you upgrade to 06 tail lights...
#78
#79
#80
Looking forward to the tutorial ... I have the relay ready to go and I'm one of the idiots that paid like 20 bucks for it. FML. ha.
#81
I got the pinouts for my relays and for the ones the one that elrooko used so I know what goes where.
Oh yea, one thing to add is these relays are latching relays. So any 12v 10pin DPDT dual coil latching relay will work for this.
Looking at the pinouts make it look much simpler than it really is.
Oh yea, one thing to add is these relays are latching relays. So any 12v 10pin DPDT dual coil latching relay will work for this.
Looking at the pinouts make it look much simpler than it really is.
#83
I've been re-reading over both nameless's and elrooko's writeups.
I like the simplicity of nameless's. The main problem is we do not have this Mitsubishi module.
I've been digging thru the FSM and I finally found the wires that go to the fuel lid (FSM terms in case you are looking for gas door or fuel door).
I'm gonna see what I can do with this, and also where I will be placing the relay.
I like the simplicity of nameless's. The main problem is we do not have this Mitsubishi module.
I've been digging thru the FSM and I finally found the wires that go to the fuel lid (FSM terms in case you are looking for gas door or fuel door).
I'm gonna see what I can do with this, and also where I will be placing the relay.
#84
i did it the way elrooko did and it was easier than it seems. 2 wires to the button on the lights, 2 wire to the trunk release in the car, 2 wire for lock/unlock and the 2 grounds, and thats it. oh hey, you might be able to check it out if you want, i will be getting my door lock fixed soon.
#87
#88
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
#89
#90
well i was thinking you could maybe hook it all up through your trunk release(to the left of your steering wheel) and then make a kill switch in your door locks which would be powered by your actuator but on the bar going to your door lock. idk if you have ever opened up your door panel and seen how your door locks work but the actuator recieves the electric signal and moves a bar forward and backwards to lock/unlock your doors. you could wire everything up and then run wires it to your door so when its locked the wires are separated and there is no connection(disableing the trunk release), but when you unlock your door, the actuator moves forward(with the attached wiring) to complete the circut so you can use your trunk release. and you would probably need to put little metal plates so the wiring can have a better chance of connecting or maybe even super weak magnets that will connect when very close but pull apart very easily. or maybe even put the wires in a track, liek a straw cut down teh middle held together with super glue? ghetto but no1 will see and it works idk jsut a thought... i was thinking of how to overcome this same thing too.