I'm having an interesting problem with my windows, I figure someone on here has had something similar or has an idea on what to check next as I have no idea

Symptom: When the car experiences vibration and BOTH of the window switch boxes are plugged in, the driver's side window rolls itself down, and the passenger side window rolls itself halfway down. You can hear both window motors and switch boxes clicking like crazy the whole time. When the car is stationary the windows work 100%, unless I hit the car interior (door panels, dash, steering wheel, anything hard), then the windows roll down as described.

It seems like the window motors are repeatedly getting a signal to roll down as something vibrates within the car.

Both of the door lock actuators are bad, I have the parts for the DIY fix but installation is pointless since I have no key fob and can't keep the switch box plugged in without the windows rolling down.

What I've tried:
-Replaced drivers side switch box, no change
-Completely disassembled both doors (added soundproofing as well ) hoping to find a short, found nothing.
Since the issue only occurs while driving I can't exactly get a multimeter and start testing wires....

I'm not really expecting a response but worth a try. I really appreciate any and all input on this as I don't have the cash to go to a dealer/specialist and start replacing parts ***** nilly to fix something like windows/power locks.

Instead I spent all my car budget on the full Whiteline bushings kit and new mounts

 

Nice kit.

Did you reset the window motors?

 

Probably the driver side door lock key switch, easy to check as well, take the door panel apart and on the backside of the door lock cylinder just unplug the harness. Might try just putting the key in the door and using it to manually roll the windows up/down, maybe it's just stuck in a bad position really close to the open side of the switch and vibration is enough to make contact.

 

UPDATE: Today I took apart my driver's door again and unplugged that harness. The issue seemed to be solved as I started driving, made it a whole minute down the street before the problem started happening again under acceleration. Using the physical key to roll the windows up and down from the outside works fine.

I also noticed that the window cracking/uncracking on door opening doesn't work with my "new" driver window switch but does (sometimes) with the old broken one. Other times the old one just rolls the window down when I open the door but not back up again so I can't use that one.

Anybody else?
I haven't yet come across an issue I couldn't fix myself. If I take this to a dealer/shop and ask them to fix it, will they charge me even if they can't find the issue?

 

When you installed the new motor did you do the recalibration properly? The final step is to open the door and hit the door closed switch a couple times to verify the window drops/closes the 1/2" properly. I'm guessing it's not calibrated, it needs to be done every time the motor is removed.

http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gcou..._procedure.php

 

Cleric, if the windows weren't calibrated wouldn't that consistently prevent the windows from going up? What's happening to me is the windows (usually) work fine when parked, but once I get moving they start jerking up and down as if possessed. Sometimes they won't go up all the way even after I park, but I just slam the door a few times and it reverts to proper functioning.

Since my last post, I've tried a known working master window switch box and it does the exact same thing, so it's not that. I've also taken apart the drivers door and jiggled everything I could find without triggering the issue. I've also clipped the wire for the lock cylinder switch, with no results (other than simplifying the whole system and making my car harder to break into). For the time being I've wired up a switch that cuts power to the master door switch, locking the windows while I'm moving but allowing me to roll the windows down for drive thrus or ATMs (or state inspections )

I'm thinking it's the BCM now as opposed to a loose wire now for one reason: when I embarked on fixing my power locks (yes, everything in my car is broken), I found that pressing the lock and unlock button on the door switch doesn't send the correct signal to the lock actuator (it does the same thing whether I hit lock or unlock). This is consistent across all three of my spare door switches and occurs all the time, stationary or moving. Using the key fob, the correct signal is sent so my power door locks are "working" again.

Anybody have any new insights? Once I fix my diff bushing and pay somebody to deal with the rust, maybe I'll pull the BCM and test it w/ a multimeter according to the procedure I saw in the FSM.

 

I don't know how many different symptoms are related to not doing the window motor calibration. Personally my driver side would do the common "when I roll the window up it rolls itself back down halfway" when it needed recall due to age. Finally the driver window would roll itself down every time I closed the door and I replaced it.

Passenger side started becoming unresponsive for a few seconds then it would roll itself down all the way and be unresponsive until I turned the vehicle off/on.

Those problems we're all due to uncalibrated motors, and when they're worn they don't keep the new calibration very long. I recalibrated each side a few times and it would work fine for a week to a month then start acting up again.
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