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Ing+1 Full Replica kit ***Test Fit Pics*****

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  #46  
Old 09-01-2005, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sen_jen
beangrowers replica got gaps in various places towards the front and rear of the side skirts. the front lip has two gaps where the begining of the vents start on the left, and end on the right. it looks as if it needs to be filled in. you gotta be a car nut to actually notice the sides skirts. the front is noticeable when you get about 2 feet. overall, it does a great job for a daily driven G. it turns heads like you wouldn't believe. even the 6 series Bimmer's snap they heads!!
Yes, as mentioned... 95% of the population wouldn't even notice the gaps. But if you're gonna do it, I figure might as well do it right. The side skirts have gaps along the front and rear... and takes some shaving to get the gap to go away.

If you walk up to it, you'd see the gaps where the 3M tape goes to hold onto the piece. For me, it's just unacceptable and so I decided to fab my own mounts, etc to make it sit flush.

Having done this... and knowing how much work had to go into it, I would've went with the fiberglass (~$100 cheaper too)... and it allows you to work with it much more with re-laying fiberglass or bondo.

I do agree that it looks great. It adds a definite flair to the sides....
I really hope this info is informative and useful to those who are looking to get one of these and know what they're getting into. If you or your bodyshop is familiar and willing to take the time to get it right... go for it. It really depends on how valuable your time is....

J
 
  #47  
Old 09-01-2005, 02:30 PM
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question for the guys with the ing+1 front lip how did your bodyshop bolt the lip on? I asked the bodyshop to remove the center peice on the front lip and they said they were not sure if they can take it off he said that he may have to bolt the lip on from there, heres a pic of the part I wanted removed
 
Attached Thumbnails Ing+1 Full Replica kit ***Test Fit Pics*****-frontlip01.jpg  
  #48  
Old 09-01-2005, 02:42 PM
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^ they used the screws on the sides, and 2way tape on the middles.
 
  #49  
Old 09-01-2005, 02:47 PM
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yes i also want that license plate part on my front lip shaved off as well, turbo maxima also has it done like this... im sure they can just cut and sand that part down, and just use 3m double sided tape there... correct me if i'm wrong.
 
  #50  
Old 09-01-2005, 02:55 PM
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well when I was fitting the lip on it was a very tight fit I guess the screws on the side will hold into place.... will see I hope they can remove it cause I dont like it all and I wont have a front plate on to cover it either
 
  #51  
Old 09-01-2005, 03:02 PM
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nismo that doesnt look very hard to do, im sure any decent bodyship will be able to do that no problem, if they are giving you excuses, then they're just lazy and don't even want to try... i suggest you find a better body shop to take it to.
 
  #52  
Old 09-01-2005, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by nismoGcoupe
well when I was fitting the lip on it was a very tight fit I guess the screws on the side will hold into place.... will see I hope they can remove it cause I dont like it all and I wont have a front plate on to cover it either
I would use something on the bottom to keep it in place... simply having 2 screws on each side is not very secure. Hit a bad curb, and your lip is off.

If he's telling you that he can't shave that off (it's fiberglass right?)... he's just a lazy ***. He can simply cut it off, use fine bondo, sand, then use 1000 or 2000 grit wet sand to get it smooth as a baby's butt. Prime/paint and you're good.

But I'd make sure it's secure properly... the OEM lip requires you to drill some holes, and use the plastic clips for insurance to secure it on. Plus, would you really rely on just 3M tape to hold your bumper... with 2 screws on each end for support??
 
  #53  
Old 09-01-2005, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Babiephat
If he's telling you that he can't shave that off (it's fiberglass right?)... he's just a lazy ***. He can simply cut it off, use fine bondo, sand, then use 1000 or 2000 grit wet sand to get it smooth as a baby's butt. Prime/paint and you're good.

Its not that he cant do it (they’re very experience with fiberglassing & aftermarket kits) he wants to mount the lip on first to see how he can bolt it on but he also said he might not be able to remove it because he may have to bolt it on from there, from other pics I've seen some people leave it on and some remove it so I was just curious on how everyone was bolting on this front lip
 
  #54  
Old 09-01-2005, 04:33 PM
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So in conclusion, does the Ings poly kit fit fairly well without any major gaps? How is the fitment on the fiberglass kits, and which kit do you guys think would take less/more money to make it fit/look perfect, or close enough to perfect at least.
 
  #55  
Old 09-01-2005, 04:40 PM
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Here ya go
http://www.intensepower.com/inbokitg35co.html
no fitment problems and costs about 400.00 to paint.
 
  #56  
Old 09-01-2005, 04:43 PM
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i would say the fiberglass would be your best bet, if you get poly, it better fit well or you gonna have to put in a lot of time to get it to fit right, and with poly you cant really repair it if it cracks or anything, and it costs more to paint poly than it is FG... FG is easier to work with and you can always make FG to fit...
 
  #57  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:58 PM
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damn.. u guys got me worried.. im takin my urethane replica to the shop tomorrow... the thing is.. i can't leave my g there overnight cuz i need it for work and stuff... and the front part of the lip seems way off... where are the mounting points?
 
  #58  
Old 09-01-2005, 10:24 PM
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nerdspeed, you got the ings+1 poly replica? well what did your body shop say? they should update you on whats going on...
 
  #59  
Old 09-02-2005, 02:11 AM
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i'm taking it in on friday.. i'll let u guys know whats up after i take it in
 
  #60  
Old 09-02-2005, 03:31 AM
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Which shop are you taking it in? I'm in the same area as you, let us know how much work they need to do and how much they're charging you.
 


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