Ing+1 Full Replica kit ***Test Fit Pics*****
#46
Originally Posted by sen_jen
beangrowers replica got gaps in various places towards the front and rear of the side skirts. the front lip has two gaps where the begining of the vents start on the left, and end on the right. it looks as if it needs to be filled in. you gotta be a car nut to actually notice the sides skirts. the front is noticeable when you get about 2 feet. overall, it does a great job for a daily driven G. it turns heads like you wouldn't believe. even the 6 series Bimmer's snap they heads!!
If you walk up to it, you'd see the gaps where the 3M tape goes to hold onto the piece. For me, it's just unacceptable and so I decided to fab my own mounts, etc to make it sit flush.
Having done this... and knowing how much work had to go into it, I would've went with the fiberglass (~$100 cheaper too)... and it allows you to work with it much more with re-laying fiberglass or bondo.
I do agree that it looks great. It adds a definite flair to the sides....
I really hope this info is informative and useful to those who are looking to get one of these and know what they're getting into. If you or your bodyshop is familiar and willing to take the time to get it right... go for it. It really depends on how valuable your time is....
J
#47
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
question for the guys with the ing+1 front lip how did your bodyshop bolt the lip on? I asked the bodyshop to remove the center peice on the front lip and they said they were not sure if they can take it off he said that he may have to bolt the lip on from there, heres a pic of the part I wanted removed
#49
#50
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#51
#52
Originally Posted by nismoGcoupe
well when I was fitting the lip on it was a very tight fit I guess the screws on the side will hold into place.... will see I hope they can remove it cause I dont like it all and I wont have a front plate on to cover it either
If he's telling you that he can't shave that off (it's fiberglass right?)... he's just a lazy ***. He can simply cut it off, use fine bondo, sand, then use 1000 or 2000 grit wet sand to get it smooth as a baby's butt. Prime/paint and you're good.
But I'd make sure it's secure properly... the OEM lip requires you to drill some holes, and use the plastic clips for insurance to secure it on. Plus, would you really rely on just 3M tape to hold your bumper... with 2 screws on each end for support??
#53
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Babiephat
If he's telling you that he can't shave that off (it's fiberglass right?)... he's just a lazy ***. He can simply cut it off, use fine bondo, sand, then use 1000 or 2000 grit wet sand to get it smooth as a baby's butt. Prime/paint and you're good.
Its not that he cant do it (they’re very experience with fiberglassing & aftermarket kits) he wants to mount the lip on first to see how he can bolt it on but he also said he might not be able to remove it because he may have to bolt it on from there, from other pics I've seen some people leave it on and some remove it so I was just curious on how everyone was bolting on this front lip
#54
#55
Never enough
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sac town
Posts: 4,339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here ya go
http://www.intensepower.com/inbokitg35co.html
no fitment problems and costs about 400.00 to paint.
http://www.intensepower.com/inbokitg35co.html
no fitment problems and costs about 400.00 to paint.
#56
i would say the fiberglass would be your best bet, if you get poly, it better fit well or you gonna have to put in a lot of time to get it to fit right, and with poly you cant really repair it if it cracks or anything, and it costs more to paint poly than it is FG... FG is easier to work with and you can always make FG to fit...
#57