DIY: Window motor repair

Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #46  
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So I'm in the car with the door closed. The window is only comin out of the glass a few inches. I press an hold the reset button or what I'm assuming is the reset button. Roll the window all the way down while still holding the button then go back up it goes up like 5 or 6 inches and the second I let go of the window switch it automatically rolls back down
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #47  
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if it only goes up halfway, you need to take the motor off the track and hit the down switch for a few revolutions, then hook it back up to the window.
Mine did this too, thats what I did.
If it goes up all the way then dips down a few inches, that the reset.
Open the door, roll the window up all the way without engaging auto up. Close door, push in reset button, push down button and don't engage auto down, when done, release reset button and roll window up without auto up. Open door and the window should dip a cm.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:44 PM
  #48  
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The reset button is the little black rubber nipple thing that is on the motor and theres a hole on the metal cover just for the reset button.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #49  
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Ok I figured it out it was off the track. Basically the whole piece of glass had moved forward and it was just getting hung up at the same spot. So I moved the whole thing back and it went up. Auto up doesn't work but I was just glad to have a working window. After close to a year without it.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 09:33 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Codyk
Ok I figured it out it was off the track. Basically the whole piece of glass had moved forward and it was just getting hung up at the same spot. So I moved the whole thing back and it went up. Auto up doesn't work but I was just glad to have a working window. After close to a year without it.
The same thing happened to me, the window fell off track in the front. Auto up should work after you do the reset.
Here are the instructions I used to reset my window:
http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gcou..._procedure.htm
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 10:22 PM
  #51  
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From: Torrance, CA
Originally Posted by layedout95
The same thing happened to me, the window fell off track in the front. Auto up should work after you do the reset.
Here are the instructions I used to reset my window:
http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gcou..._procedure.htm
Same thing I said above
 
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by j3dz
well here in Cali its about $10.00 for the brushes....so cover the brushes and shipping....and whatever else you thing is cool for my time =)
Originally Posted by pythonjosh
The reset button is the little black rubber nipple thing that is on the motor and theres a hole on the metal cover just for the reset button.
Hey, would one of you guys be able to fix this for me? I'm in Cypress (OC). My driver's window stopped going up & down.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:39 AM
  #53  
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BUMP, can anyone in SoCal help me out with this? The way for me to make my driver's side window to roll down is to open the door with the car on, hold the down on the window, then close the door.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by bor99
BUMP, can anyone in SoCal help me out with this? The way for me to make my driver's side window to roll down is to open the door with the car on, hold the down on the window, then close the door.
Maybe your window motor is dirty and needs cleaning or replacement

Best price on new unit


Cleaning DIY


Edit: replacement comes with lifetime warranty so never again have to worry about window motor crapping out and being stuck with another bill
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by faiz23
Maybe your window motor is dirty and needs cleaning or replacement

Best price on new unit


Cleaning DIY


Edit: replacement comes with lifetime warranty so never again have to worry about window motor crapping out and being stuck with another bill
Thanks man!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 12:46 AM
  #56  
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From: o-town & west palm beach FL
2012
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #57  
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Just replaced the brushes and did everything down to the T; it worked for about 2 minutes then it completely crapped out....I don't know what happened, perhaps the wires in the silicone covered area were not soldered well enough?? Maybe the actual windings were damaged, any ideas!? I already bought my lifetime warranty Advanced Auto Parts motor and will be putting it in tomorrow but this is just an obsession now LOL!! We really do take these stupid little things for granted....thanks for the insight guys!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #58  
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ive done 5 or 6 on G/Zs . you may want to check the springs to see if theyre in place, make sure the brushes arent to thick to where they get stuck. check the solders. sometime the solder will come lose after you shut the door .. so i slam the door a few times before i put the door panel back on
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:58 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by blAk mAx
ive done 5 or 6 on G/Zs . you may want to check the springs to see if theyre in place, make sure the brushes arent to thick to where they get stuck. check the solders. sometime the solder will come lose after you shut the door .. so i slam the door a few times before i put the door panel back on

Thank you VERY much for your help! I desoldered the terminals again, pulled the plastic piece out, and it appeared that my solder points for my brushes MIGHT have been coming in contact with the gold magnet case and shorting! I pushed them deeper into the plastic brush assembly, resoldered, and it works perfectly now!!


Just a side note, the principles of this little project are VERY simple but I had THE hardest time getting all of that silicone jelly stuff out and desoldering those terminals. My soldering iron barely had enough heat to melt the OEM solder and I ended up melting all of the black plastic in that little area ....it took me 2 hours just to desolder the terminals from the blue wires. I also tried melting the silicone jelly out....took a long while with lots of scraping but I eventually got it out.


Trying to pull the plastic brush assembly out was a PITA due to a little solder being left on the terminals and all of the melted plastic. I was about to throw in the towel multiple times. I tried using copper desolder thread stuff but that literally did not work at all. Resoldering the blue wires to the terminals was a nightmare lol....those wires are SO close to each other, AND then you add some solder on top of that; I thought for sure it was going to short circuit. Are there any tools(different soldering iron, etc) that would have aided me a little better in this process!? My driver side motor is starting to act up as well and I want to do it right next time.


For anyone attempting this DIY, make sure that you are careful with your iron and do not melt the black plastic. Also, make sure you remove all of the solder from the terminal in the gooey area, as you will have to pull the terminal up and through the case and any remaining solder will make it not slide through. Be aware of the brushes solder points and that they do not come into contact with the gold case.

If anyone has any questions on my experience with this, please don't hesitate!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #60  
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Lol Beretta, your experience was just as same as mine. I had the same difficulty as you even though this sounded like a piece of cake. After my experience, I really believed that I could not solder if my life depended on it. I don't even remember what I did with the old one. I might still have it in storage and will try it again just to see if it works
 
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