Review of RJM Performance adjustable clutch pedal bracket
Update
Special thanks to LoSt180 for pointing out my mistake on the 07' G35 Coupes. They did not receive the update to the VQ35HR in 07' like the Sedans or the 07' 350Z. So these bracket kits will fit the 07' G35 Coupe Only.
Installed this the other night. EVERYONE need to buy this. Completely different car...the pedal is completely silent and has consistent travel every time! Finally my clutch pedal doesn't thud back when it returns.
I'll add my $.02. Just installed the bracket yesterday, and I really can't give it enough praise! This mod is a must for every G owner. The installation is relatively easy, and the instructions are perfectly clear. The whole install took me about 2 hrs. A couple of quick notes about the installation: Screwing in the clutch rod is a bit of a pain, but there's not much that can be done about that. Also, the directions have the white and brown switches in the opposite places that they are in my car.
Starting in 1st, and the shift from 1st to 2nd are MUCH more smooth. It's great not feeling disconnected from the clutch anymore.
My car is fun to drive again. Thanks a lot, Ryan, and great job on the design/construction!
Starting in 1st, and the shift from 1st to 2nd are MUCH more smooth. It's great not feeling disconnected from the clutch anymore.
My car is fun to drive again. Thanks a lot, Ryan, and great job on the design/construction!
DiGil Your welcome
I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the mod.
As for the switches this keeps coming up hit and miss. Some cars seem to be one way and others are reversed. I think it depends who was installing them on the assembly line or if they've ever been out in the past.
Some say there's was dead on to the instructions, others like yourself report them backwards. However both are electrically the same so if you switch them it won't matter. The only difference between them is the contact tips are a little different. One tip is rounded and the other is flat in my car.
I'll revise the instructions soon to reduce any confusion though. Basically you can't go wrong either way
I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the mod.As for the switches this keeps coming up hit and miss. Some cars seem to be one way and others are reversed. I think it depends who was installing them on the assembly line or if they've ever been out in the past.
Some say there's was dead on to the instructions, others like yourself report them backwards. However both are electrically the same so if you switch them it won't matter. The only difference between them is the contact tips are a little different. One tip is rounded and the other is flat in my car.
I'll revise the instructions soon to reduce any confusion though. Basically you can't go wrong either way
Update:
Today I think my master cylinder took a dump on me. I put the bracket in last fall before storage and have maybe only put 2k miles on it off that. Would not havin it adjusted properly possible cause the cmc to go? The pedal feels limp such as a brake pedal when you have no fluid in the lines. However there is 0 fluid leak in the pedal area nor in the engine bay and the reservoir is still at the same level it was before the pedal went limp. Any thought?
Today I think my master cylinder took a dump on me. I put the bracket in last fall before storage and have maybe only put 2k miles on it off that. Would not havin it adjusted properly possible cause the cmc to go? The pedal feels limp such as a brake pedal when you have no fluid in the lines. However there is 0 fluid leak in the pedal area nor in the engine bay and the reservoir is still at the same level it was before the pedal went limp. Any thought?
Hmm, No there shouldn't be no way to hurt the MC with the new brackets and AFP adjustment. Especially if it's been adjusted well enough to put about trouble free 2k miles on it since installation. With slider setup for wider engagement the MC actually has less stoke for each pedal push & release which should in theory at least help it survive longer without a seal failure.
Did you do anything under the car today or in the past week? I know when I lubed the boot at the transmission where the clutch fork goes in I pulled the arm back compressing the slave to squirt some grease in there and after that it took me about 20 or more full pumps to get normal clutch pressure back. Just a thought.
Otherwise how did it feel and drive last time out? If you do 5 or 6 full pedal pumps does it feel like pressure is coming back at all?
Did you do anything under the car today or in the past week? I know when I lubed the boot at the transmission where the clutch fork goes in I pulled the arm back compressing the slave to squirt some grease in there and after that it took me about 20 or more full pumps to get normal clutch pressure back. Just a thought.
Otherwise how did it feel and drive last time out? If you do 5 or 6 full pedal pumps does it feel like pressure is coming back at all?
When I first installed it when the pedal was out I had about 1/2-1" travel before the clutch Wouk begin to disengage. That was last fall... Than it sat for 3 monyhs over winter. Over the last couple weeks it's slowly seemed like I had more pedal travel to disengage and less travel off the floor till the friction point. Drive fine all day yesterday since I was goofing around after exhaust install. Today I fired it up and clutch in and it was barely disengaged enough when the pedal was at the floor for it to get in gear. So I looked underneath to see if anything had moved it self it tea of the adjustability (seemed like it may have). Then I pushed the pedal in again.. Heard/felt a pop noise and now it feels similar to a brake pedal w/ no fluid. I pumped it several times and it never felt any better. And again 0 fluid leak and the reservoir is still full above the min line
From the sounds of it with the dissengagenent point moving lower over time that the seals in the MC were leaking slightly and getting worse for some time now. The pop sound you heard/felt was likely the seal giving out completely. When I was looking through the factory service manual a while ago I noticed that the MC was servicable and the piston can be removed to replace the seals by taking the snap ring off the front and the whole guts come out as an assembly. If you can't get a seal kit for it then I'd probably look into getting a new MC to replace yours and then have a look inside the old one to see just what happened. I'm betting the main pressure seal has a split in it so the fluid that squeezes out just returns to the reservoir without actually spilling or leaking out anywhere visably.
Old CMC out. *Then I dissected it. *Nothing appeared to be broken or torn but the old clutch fluid was grimy and gross as hell. * I think I'll be instituting a clutch fluid flush once a year from now on.
Hopefully a new cmc and a good bleed/flush will make er'ything happy again.
Waiting on auto-parts store to call saying my new one is in so I can pick it up.
Hopefully a new cmc and a good bleed/flush will make er'ything happy again.
Waiting on auto-parts store to call saying my new one is in so I can pick it up.
Aku, Just following up to see if you were able to figure out the problem you were having after that pop feeling and loosing clutch presure? Did the new CMC or slave solve it?
Hope everythings good again now
Hope everythings good again now




