Can you link us to exactly the same LED's and Resistors your purchased?
Well... you did link the LED... how 'bout that resistor?

 

I tried before and it didn't seem to work. Sorry.

Here they are:

This page:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...gi?product=CAR

Near the bottom of the page. Item number: RL-650

 

Thanks for the info, Tim.
Have you tried this for the front signals, too? If so, did you use the same bulbs (except amber) and same resistors? Was the front harder to do than the rear?

 

ouch - damn!!! Change the avatar!!! Makes me cringe! Seriously!

 

I tried different bulbs on the fronts and they were not as bright. I have not gotten around to buying another set of these for the fronts. The resistors will work.

 

Exactly the info I was looking for, thanks ttrank. Vid makes it easy to explain to friends too.
This is awesome and precisely what I want to do to mine (HATE that slow on/off blinking). And don't tell me I'll never see it, because everytime you unlock the car those things blink!

Really appreciate the link to the resistors from superbrightleds... can you provide any more info on the installation of them? I haven't taken a look into the tail light assembly yet, but is it pretty obvious how these resistors get installed? Do they replace existing ones in there, or is it an add, and if so was there any trouble getting them to fit? What's the difficulty level, any tips or link to DIY?
Ton of questions, I know... I try to get 'em all in 1 shot...

Thanks!

 

Install is easy. The resistor just taps into the blinker wire and goes to ground. Sorry, I don't have any pics. There are no resistors now because the standard bulbs work like a resistor but LED's have a much lower resistance so the car thinks a bulb is out. No trouble getting them to fit. I just used some double side tape and stuck them in a corner. The next time I open my trunk up I can take some pics but I have no idea when that will be.

Bulbs go right where the old ones were so no mods needed there.

 

Here are some pics (not the greatest) on how I installed my load resistors.





The two wires that use the quick splice (red things right next to the factory harness in the second picture) can be used to place the load resistors.

And just as a point of clarification, the reason for a load resistor is to fool the BCM by drawing a similar amount of current as the stock bulb. It isn't really that an LED has less resistance per se, it just draws so much less current the BCM thinks the is blown out (blown open). The load resistor is basically a dummy device that just burns power. Inefficient powerwise, but it gets the job done

 

^^^ whats the circuit board and ribbon cable?...

 

It's the control board for my sequential lights... see the link in my sig for Sequential LED Rear Turn Signals.

 

Holy crap!!! I didnt know anyone had done that... this is something I was looking into when I did the LEDs to blink on sedan... did you make the board? I'd like to incorporate this into 03-04 sedan tails... will the same board work?

 

OCG35, will you move your questions over to the thread on the lights? I don't want to threadjack. Yes, I designed and fabricated the control board and LED boards. My lights are in an 04 sedan (04X) so yes, yes they would.

On a sidenote, ttrank, you're quickly approaching 20,000 posts. Some would say you're on here too much

 

Well, I finally did this mod using the 3-watt Luxeon LEDs. I also installed the 6 ohm, 50W power resistors, which work fine.

But I discovered that there is a way to significantly improve the light output and pattern of the rear turn signals when using the LEDs. It all has to do with the dimensions and filament placement of the 7440 bulb. It turns out that the 3-watt LED is positioned about 3/8" higher (away from the base) than the incandescent filament in an ordinary 7440 bulb. So if you just insert the LED into the socket and twist it tight into the turn signal housing, the light output is very much degraded. I assume this happens because the reflector housing inside the turn signal assembly is optically optimized for the bright tungsten filament to be positioned at a fairly precise location. I was able to see the effect on the light pattern very readily, because I had a white garage door immediately behind the car.

So of course, I simply unscrewed the lamp holder and let it drop loose about 3/8-1/2" downward in the socket. The light pattern against the garage door became MUCH brighter and focused, just like the other side (where I had yet to replace the incandescent bulb). But no one wants a loose bulb socket! How to hold it in the optimum position? I thought about using some glue or hot melt, but really didn't want that mess. I ended up using some small pieces of dense packing foam around the socket, jammed into the lamp pocket. These seem to very securely wedge the bulb socket in a lower position. It's definitely homemade and wouldn't pass aircraft inspection, but it works fine. The light output of the LEDs are improved by 2X at least, and it's much more focused toward the rear!

 

Pics!!!!

Video would be even better.

 

The rear turn signals don't go straight in do they? Looking through the manual, they look like they are at an upward angle...