Whats up guys? Im going to get my rotors and calipers powder coated so i dont have to see that ugly rust anymore. Im having trouble getting these 2 brolic bolts off from what im calling the "caliper housing" lol... im using a non-metric wrench (has a tiny bit of play) but the bolts still wont even budge.



Correct me if im wrong but to loosen these bolts i have to loosen TOWARDS the rear bumper correct?

And does anyone know off-hand the exact metric size for these bolts? I know theyre a bit bigger than an 18.

And will these bolts require a impact gun even if theyve been loosen since the first factory tightening?

Thanks guys

 

Righty tighty. Lefty Loosey.

Get metric wrenches and sockets, tools are cool and for life... if you get good ones.

Don't need air tool/impact wrench, at most, tap on wrench end with a dead blow hammer.

Don't use SAE wrenches unless you want to strip the bolt heads out.

"Towards the rear bumper" is irrelevant. What side of the car are you on? Wrench above or below the bolt head?

For every bolt on the car that I know of, if you were staring at the bolt head, and the threads were on the other side pointing "away" from you, clockwise will screw it in / tighten it. "Righty tighty" starting at the top of the bolt head at the "12 oclock" position.

 

Both those picturea were from the front driver side wheel, as u can see the bolts are in the back of the brakes so looking at the wheel from the outside if im going clockwise, then id be going the right way.

Looking at the bolt head on i am going counter clockwise

 

First of all, if you are working on your brakes, you should damn sure be able to tell whether you are loosening or tightening a bolt; you should not have to ask if you are turning it the right way or not. Period, end of story! If you have to ask, then you really don't belong in there. My wife and kids could be sharing the roads with you !!

Now, having gotten that off my chest, I will say that you should either get a proper 6-point socket and a breaker bar, or use an impact wrench. But honestly, this is really basic stuff you're struggling with here.

 

I know i look kinda stupid but hey its my first car, plus at work we've done break jobs on macks, freightliners and ford tankers and the lug situation with those (even tho were talking about bolts here) is *** backwards lol, drivers side is one way and the passenger side is the other. But thats why come here to ask lol. Thanks guys, a friend is going to lend me some big sockets n well see what happens.

 

Ask your kind friend to lend you a torque wrench as well.




Before you ask, all the specs are in here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/br.pdf

.

 

Ya i got a torque wrench but lack metric tools

 

Interesting that some of the big trucks have brakes that are reverse threaded. Most things that are reverse threaded is due to constant rotational force, like the left side pedal of a bicycle or a crank pulley, will constantly be forcing the bolt into the "backing out/loosening" direction.

As far as I know, there are none on the G35. But I would have to double check on the crank shaft pulley. Sometimes they have an "L" stamped on them.

Don't worry, you're not the first to think the brake caliper bolts were reverse thread.

Try Aerokroil, it creeps in really well, 10 times better than PB Blaster, and 100 times better than WD-40. Hard to find local, got to order it.

 

Get some PB Blaster and a breaker bar.

 

Breaker bars break free broken brakes

 

PB blaster, and a longer breaker bar. Try a cheater pipe if you can, when I was doing my coilover install I was amazed how much slipping a piece of pipe 6 inches longer than my wrench handle did for upping the torque.

 

Breach pressure is too high for the wrench and will likely destroy it. But a bigger breaker bar.

 

I bought a nice Milwaukee electric impact gun and it took those fronts right off.

Prior to that I would use a breaker bar and PB blaster with my jack handle for leverage. Also, turn the wheel to get some more room.

Rears I ended up having to use a torch to break them loose. Only issue with that is you have to extremely careful you don't cause any brake fluid to boil over or you could rupture the rubber hoses.

 

BTW, those front caliper bolts are 22mm

22mm socket with a 1/2 drive 18" breaker bar.



BTW, you can't powdercoat brake rotors. Powdercoating tends to melt around 350 degrees. You can exceed this pretty easily with a few heavy stops. The coating will soften and begin to not look very good. Even high temp paints can start to burn off over time. I've used 500 degree high temp paint and it usually lasts a year or so. Powdercoating is also an insulator in ways, something you don't want to put on a rotor you are trying to take heat out of.

 

OP I would spend the $ to powder coat the calipers, and the $ you were going to spend on the rotors should go towards new ones that have a black coating on them already. Is it black oxide? Not sure...

You could also spend the $ on brembo instead of trying to be brembo. I'm there too though. One day I'll pick up some akebonos or brembos used off here.