OFFICIAL: Aggressive Wheel fitment FLUSH/STRETCH sedan
ah fa sho got it, my thing always was this
looking at the pic below there are two edges to this fender, the one that is closest to the wheel the edge that you essentially hit your lip on and the edge slightly above it
is it possible to start the pull from that higher edge? that way the fender sorda falls right along the stretched tire allowing for poke of the lip
looking at the pic below there are two edges to this fender, the one that is closest to the wheel the edge that you essentially hit your lip on and the edge slightly above it
is it possible to start the pull from that higher edge? that way the fender sorda falls right along the stretched tire allowing for poke of the lip
Yep, that's exactly what I plan to do. Start the pull up higher. If I can't do it, time to cut the inner part. If I can't do it, well I can always go back to this and then I'll extend the fenders down the line and shape the fenders how I want.
Yep...well, i thought I could fit 38mm spacers. Looks like I won't be able to do that, maybe 25mm or 30, but if I had bags it would be no problem. Gonna test the 38mm anyway but I might be able to throw on a 5 or 10mm spacer after adjusting camber and lowering the rear a tad more.
Yep...well, i thought I could fit 38mm spacers. Looks like I won't be able to do that, maybe 25mm or 30, but if I had bags it would be no problem. Gonna test the 38mm anyway but I might be able to throw on a 5 or 10mm spacer after adjusting camber and lowering the rear a tad more.
OMG Levon, you gotta take pics of this test fitment. Can't even imagine what that would look like...hehe.
I'm going to adjust the coilovers so if there is too much suspension travel it hits the bump stop sooner. My problem before with getting stuck going up driveways was that the height was adjusted by adjusting the perch where the spring is. That does work, but what it's doing is compressing the spring and it has no give when there is a dip in the road or when weight shifts to the other side of the car.
I've adjusted that previously, but there's a little more room to play with it I think. I've been taking a look at my rear wheels trying to figure things out, especially since my last pull with all the hammering and everything I have about a 2 finger gap between the tire and fender well. The fender is flared upward and I need to straighten it out so it goes straight up rather than curves up, kinda like the fronts. So there may be some body modifications that I'll need to do as well.
What I've been trying to do is get the wheel to clear from rubbing/hitting the fenders on extreme dips on the road. Don't want to have the lips refinished only to have the same problem again. I'd need to dial in more negative camber or have a less aggressive setup in the rear. I would still be rubbing the tire and I figured if anything, I'll deal with rubbing the tire than the wheel.
Right now I do tuck...this pic is before I had my fenders hammered out quite a bit so it tucks a little bit more now. Looks good when driving though.
Dialing in some positive camber will lessen the space between the fender and the tire and I may have room for a spacer, it all depends on how much the gap closes when dialing in 1.5 - 2.5 degrees of positive camber.
I've adjusted that previously, but there's a little more room to play with it I think. I've been taking a look at my rear wheels trying to figure things out, especially since my last pull with all the hammering and everything I have about a 2 finger gap between the tire and fender well. The fender is flared upward and I need to straighten it out so it goes straight up rather than curves up, kinda like the fronts. So there may be some body modifications that I'll need to do as well.
What I've been trying to do is get the wheel to clear from rubbing/hitting the fenders on extreme dips on the road. Don't want to have the lips refinished only to have the same problem again. I'd need to dial in more negative camber or have a less aggressive setup in the rear. I would still be rubbing the tire and I figured if anything, I'll deal with rubbing the tire than the wheel.
Right now I do tuck...this pic is before I had my fenders hammered out quite a bit so it tucks a little bit more now. Looks good when driving though.
Dialing in some positive camber will lessen the space between the fender and the tire and I may have room for a spacer, it all depends on how much the gap closes when dialing in 1.5 - 2.5 degrees of positive camber.
. Still love what you are doing, Levon.
^^^
That's with a 235/35...before I had a 225/35 lol. The rub was when my suspension wasn't set right. All that is metal on metal rub.
Marcus, I won't be doing 30 mm spacers..more like 38 mm spacers that Ichiba has
That's with a 235/35...before I had a 225/35 lol. The rub was when my suspension wasn't set right. All that is metal on metal rub.
Marcus, I won't be doing 30 mm spacers..more like 38 mm spacers that Ichiba has
Lol, too bad I can't keep it that way cos my tires would stick WAAY too past the bumper. I'm hoping within a year or so I can pick up a beater so I can REALLY change things up on the car.
So who wants to buy my fronts since my rears (10.5 +0) fit very nicely on my fronts? 
For reference, here it is lowered, no upper arms (meaning no camber adjustment), fender clips removed, and slight roll on the front fenders. Sellin the fronts and for a cheap price. Here's your chance to go aggressive!
For reference, here it is lowered, no upper arms (meaning no camber adjustment), fender clips removed, and slight roll on the front fenders. Sellin the fronts and for a cheap price. Here's your chance to go aggressive!
