OFFICIAL: Aggressive Wheel fitment FLUSH/STRETCH sedan
I envy you cali boyz and the stuff you can get away with in CA with the car mods.
if you ran that much neg camber here, you'd get pulled over in less than an hour and issued a vehicle inspection
if you ran that much neg camber here, you'd get pulled over in less than an hour and issued a vehicle inspection
With aftermarket coilovers you have the ability to adjust the dampening like regular coilovers. You don't need to replace the Z shocks.... lifesgood has bags and he has G shocks and it was a nice ride. Wasn't bouncy and he was riding with about a 2 finger gap. His car does feel stiff, but he has racing seats and some other stuff to stiffen the car up. I'd recommend having coilovers, but its definitely not necessary, you can always make the swap later.
I do however, recommend going with the 8 valve setup. With the 4 valve you'll have too much of a boat feeling.
I'll be going with UAS when funds permit. I'll be riding lower than what I do now and just use the bags to go up when there's a driveway. And the ability to go higher than OEM ride height is a huge plus, especially if you have an aftermarket bumper that sits lower.
I do however, recommend going with the 8 valve setup. With the 4 valve you'll have too much of a boat feeling.
I'll be going with UAS when funds permit. I'll be riding lower than what I do now and just use the bags to go up when there's a driveway. And the ability to go higher than OEM ride height is a huge plus, especially if you have an aftermarket bumper that sits lower.
As for the valve setup? I thought with a 4 valve you get front and back adjustment and 8 valve, you get front, back and side to side adjustment. I wouldn't think it would affect the ride quality?
I'm in the same boat as you meaning i will go to UAS when the funds permit. That's the reason im asking about the coilover setup. If i could run z shocks on the UAS system and it not cause premature wear on the shocks or bottom out then i could sell my F&F and be one step closer to UAS.
Trust me, it ain't that easy. I've been pulled over several times, even got cited for it cos I' rubbing and I mentioned I only rub going up a driveway at an angle. Cop was a total jerk.
Yeah in the rear. Up front I've always had -4.8. Just can't tell with the bumper since it covers it better than the rear bumper width wise.
Humm.. the reason I would want dampening is to stiffen up the shock so that i dont bottom out when im riding slammed. But from your statement above it sounds like it's already stiff with OEM shocks.
As for the valve setup? I thought with a 4 valve you get front and back adjustment and 8 valve, you get front, back and side to side adjustment. I wouldn't think it would affect the ride quality?
I'm in the same boat as you meaning i will go to UAS when the funds permit. That's the reason im asking about the coilover setup. If i could run z shocks on the UAS system and it not cause premature wear on the shocks or bottom out then i could sell my F&F and be one step closer to UAS.
As for the valve setup? I thought with a 4 valve you get front and back adjustment and 8 valve, you get front, back and side to side adjustment. I wouldn't think it would affect the ride quality?
I'm in the same boat as you meaning i will go to UAS when the funds permit. That's the reason im asking about the coilover setup. If i could run z shocks on the UAS system and it not cause premature wear on the shocks or bottom out then i could sell my F&F and be one step closer to UAS.
As for the 4 valve vs 8 valve setup, here's what UAS said when I had a customer ask me about the 4 valve kit:
"Yes that would be a flagship fb setup, but I would recommend against it because he will have more body roll, (air will transfer from one side to the other). But, he is always welcome to give it a shot, and if its too much body roll for him, add the extra valves to make it a side/side setup."
Posted in the aggressive offsets thread, but figured I'd post here as well...
I might have a surprise for you fellas in a few weeks. Gonna put some spacers on in the rear...will be in double digit negatives and NOT in the teens. Just gonna try it out but I'll be dialing in some positive camber and probably adding spacers. Gonna match rear camber with the front and deal with rubbing the tire, just getting my suspension modified. For those that don't know, my rears already are a 20x10.5 +0 offset.
I might have a surprise for you fellas in a few weeks. Gonna put some spacers on in the rear...will be in double digit negatives and NOT in the teens. Just gonna try it out but I'll be dialing in some positive camber and probably adding spacers. Gonna match rear camber with the front and deal with rubbing the tire, just getting my suspension modified. For those that don't know, my rears already are a 20x10.5 +0 offset.
I'm going to adjust the coilovers so if there is too much suspension travel it hits the bump stop sooner. My problem before with getting stuck going up driveways was that the height was adjusted by adjusting the perch where the spring is. That does work, but what it's doing is compressing the spring and it has no give when there is a dip in the road or when weight shifts to the other side of the car.
I've adjusted that previously, but there's a little more room to play with it I think. I've been taking a look at my rear wheels trying to figure things out, especially since my last pull with all the hammering and everything I have about a 2 finger gap between the tire and fender well. The fender is flared upward and I need to straighten it out so it goes straight up rather than curves up, kinda like the fronts. So there may be some body modifications that I'll need to do as well.
What I've been trying to do is get the wheel to clear from rubbing/hitting the fenders on extreme dips on the road. Don't want to have the lips refinished only to have the same problem again. I'd need to dial in more negative camber or have a less aggressive setup in the rear. I would still be rubbing the tire and I figured if anything, I'll deal with rubbing the tire than the wheel.
Right now I do tuck...this pic is before I had my fenders hammered out quite a bit so it tucks a little bit more now. Looks good when driving though.
Dialing in some positive camber will lessen the space between the fender and the tire and I may have room for a spacer, it all depends on how much the gap closes when dialing in 1.5 - 2.5 degrees of positive camber.
I've adjusted that previously, but there's a little more room to play with it I think. I've been taking a look at my rear wheels trying to figure things out, especially since my last pull with all the hammering and everything I have about a 2 finger gap between the tire and fender well. The fender is flared upward and I need to straighten it out so it goes straight up rather than curves up, kinda like the fronts. So there may be some body modifications that I'll need to do as well.
What I've been trying to do is get the wheel to clear from rubbing/hitting the fenders on extreme dips on the road. Don't want to have the lips refinished only to have the same problem again. I'd need to dial in more negative camber or have a less aggressive setup in the rear. I would still be rubbing the tire and I figured if anything, I'll deal with rubbing the tire than the wheel.
Right now I do tuck...this pic is before I had my fenders hammered out quite a bit so it tucks a little bit more now. Looks good when driving though.
Dialing in some positive camber will lessen the space between the fender and the tire and I may have room for a spacer, it all depends on how much the gap closes when dialing in 1.5 - 2.5 degrees of positive camber.
levon have you thought about doing that cutting the fender part? u know when they do like vertical slits and then fill in the rest with... uh i ono what.. but i think ocg35 has it
Like the inner fender? If so, then yeah, that was one of my original plans recently but gonna see if i can roll up higher on the fender. If i cant then I will cut it and then do the pull.