Looks much nicer clean Still unno about that color combo but lovin the overall Maybe they'd look better on an OB...hey...send em out, I'll take some pix and you can tell me what you think

 

hahaha, I might sell them soon, I have something more aggressive in mind. lol

 

i want new wheels

 

Vivek, trade? check out my FS thread and send me PM

 

i just want someone to buy my damn wheels lol

 

i don't think this is the right place to ask but i don't feel like making a new thread and since this deals with lowered cars and aggressive wheels, i thought someone might know.

my issue:

my rear passenger wheel sticks out more than my driver side. the car is lowered on BC Racing BR. I haven't bought rear camber arms yet (will soon). But I expected both sides to camber evenly at least.

Could it just be a camber issue? Or is my right side shifted outward more?

The passenger height is also clearly higher than my driver side. Could the damping setting affect ride height? Also, my front passenger coil has like 2-3 threads left to lower while my driver is maxed out. Could that affect it? Although the 2-3 thread difference up front translating to a half or 3/4 inch difference in the rear is a bit drastic.



Also, if anyone knows how to get more "low" from the BC Racing BR coilovers, let me know. They are in OEM setup. Using 12kg Front/10kg Rear springs. It's not going as low as I hoped. Although it is pretty slammed already. Also, my rear springs are like completely loose when the rear is jacked up. By this I mean the top spring mount drops down out of its housing on top and I can pretty much pull it out without unbolting the seat. Because I have the two lock rings towards the very top of the mount. Am I doing it wrong?

 

ME GUSTA, I have some of the same issues as you. I have the 12/10 springs as well but the those are not the standard rates. Most people have the 10/8 springs. I can tell you that you should not be able to move the rear spring at at all when the car is jacked up. It should be in there tight no matter what. But dont make it too tight. That is essentially how your pre-load is set. I have my pre-load set just a little stiffer to help prevent any rubbing since I'm on 20s. If you want to lower your rear, you have to turn the shock body clockwise if you're not maxed out already. My fronts are maxed out height wise. To get it to go lower in the front I have to drop the front sprint about a 1/4 in. I think that since the 12/10 springs are stiffer they may not allow the car to go as low as say the 10/8 springs. Thats the only idea I have because all the guys running the standard springs are able to get pretty low and still have room up front to go lower. I've also read that one side sits lower than the other on our cars also. My pass side is a 1/4in higher than the driver side. Hope this helps a little. I'm sure others will chime in.

 

YeahI'm kind of aware the rears should definitely not be loose. They should be secure when the car is jacked up. But I have the lockrings in the upper most position (lowest height) and there simply is not enough length for the spring to seat when the car is jacked. What am I doing wrong?

How would I adjust it? If I move the lockrings down so that the spring/threaded mount are long enough to stay seated when jacked, then I won't get the low ride height that I am looking for.

 

You have to bring those collars back down to put pre-load on. It sounds like you might be riding more on the shocks with not enough pre-load. I know this sounds like it will raise the car which it will. But if you have more threads left on your rear shocks you can adjust them to go lower. Just loosen that bottom gold collar on the shock and you can turn the shock clockwise to get it lower. After you get your shock height adjusted, then you can adjust the springs so they are snug in the bucket.

 

i just ordered 12/10k springs you guys are disappointing me

 

The rear shocks are at the absolute lowest they will go. If I'm supposed to adjust them to a height that is good, how do I know where that height is?

 

By the way, for the rear springs. You guys are using that rubber piece on the bottom right? Or am I supposed to remove that for the BC springs. (So it sits on the bare metal bottom seat)

 

From what BC told me you need at least 5-8mm of pre-load on the rear springs. And that's based on whatever height you are at. So if you're already maxed out in the rear, just dial in 5-8mm of pre-load on your rear springs.

 

This? Its called a spring mount and shouldnt be used with BC's. That would prevent you from going lower. Or if your talking about the sleeve that goes that goes in the bottom of the spring bucket that can stay because it secures the spring in place so that can stay.

 

ahh. so move down the lockrings on the rear spring right? Well since my spring doesn't seat when it's jacked up. that means it has a longgggg way to go before its actually preloaded right? It will possibly be at the very highest height setting?

this is what confuses me. because if thats the case. my car won't be dropped at all since it will be at or near the highest ride height setting. unless i'm totally missing how this works.