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Scumbagsleeper's 05' G35X automatic turbo budget build
This is my first real thread on G35driver so hi everyone and I'm happy to be a G35x owner and member! :thewave:
My brother and I have a pretty good background in Nissan / Infiniti cars and modification. I have owned several Z31 300zx, and at least 5x G20's.and a 78mm Turbonetics 383ci 6speed foxbody. A couple of the G20's I have added custom turbo setups and have had lots of fun in the 300-400 WHP range but I have been wanting to play with the AWD platform for awhile. My new toys... I bought a 2004 G35x with 125k really cheap because of minor issues like wheel bearings, ball joint, bad cam sensors, and leaking valve covers. I was going to start building this car but found another 2005 G35x with 156k miles for $500 bux that broke the front driveshaft. So I decided to leave the 04' alone for a DD and do anything I want to the 05' since I bought it for scrap price. The 05' - I'm starting with was a very well taken care of vehicle from Texas. Had rock chip guards, custom dash cover, tinted widows, and not a spec of rust anywhere! was traded in here in Missouri and one of the dealers bought it and put brand new tires, battery and had the fluid maintenance service done. He drove it a couple months with a clicking noise until the front driveshaft broke and it destroyed the front differential and cracked the lower aluminum oil pan. He left it at the mechanic shop and listed it for sale for what he had into the new tires just to get some money back out of the car. He said Pick’n’pull only offered $300 !! I called him and bought it without even seeing the car. Hopefully we can build this into a decent sleeper car in the $4k range - not including our time of course :) Plans for the 05’X Engine management: I bought a TurboXS Utec and it has a lot of stuff I really like but it is dated and I am not familiar with tuning one. I may go with the AEM F/ic6 and leave the stock injectors in and add 6x more GT500 injectors for a total of 12 fuel injectors. I am very familiar with tuning this way and have been doing it for 2-3 years on our SR20 turbo car. It's a little extra work fabricating the intake but will make for a very smooth transition going into boost. Also it's really really cheap compared to most solutions :) Another plus with the AEM FIC is that I can clamp the MAF before it maxes out and tune by MAP so I don’t need to retune the factory ECU for a bigger MAF saving me more $$$$ Random parts to get her on the road: Lower oil pan ($85 shipped used ebay) - These are discontinued parts now!! -- Installed Lower oil pan gaskets – Felpro ----- Installed 12-15-18 Valve cover gaskets – Felpro ----- Installed 1-14-19 New Nissan OEM metal cam sensors - Boch Nissan 23731-6J90D & 23731-AL61D Installed 1-14-19 Used 04'-06' front transfer case - ($150 shipped ebay) ----- Installed 12-15-18 Brand new Bosch upstream wideband O2's - $90 each ($180) Installed 3-17-19 Transgo HD shift kit ($190 - ebay) ----- Installed 12-15-18 Front driveshaft ($90 - carpartwholesale) Installed 12-15-18 Whiteline front inner LCA bushings W52991 - $56 (ebay) Installed 12-15-18 STD list: (shat to do) Modify upper intake manifold for 6 more fuel injectors - Finished 2-10-19 6x GT500 EV6 fuel injectors - Finished 2-10-19 Wire in AEM FIC AEM F/IC 6 to drive 6 injectors and clamp MAF - This will make the car MAF+MAP tuned up to 24 PSI. It works very well on my 02' G20. AEM F/ic6 ($300) - Got a open box deal $225 - Installed 4-16-19 2014 Ford GT500 injectors $200 (ebay) - Flow tested 588cc @ 3 bar Innovate DLG-1 Dual Lambda Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge 3891 (weld in bungs and wire in) - May delete this and make a custom gauge to read factory widebands Aeromotive FPR - Installed 4-10-19 AEM Green 340LPH fuel pump - $115 - Used a Aeromotive # 11542 pump since I had one laying around - Installed 4-10-19 Adding stock G35 return fuel line - $15 - (original feed line from 04' g35) PickNpull - Installed 4-10-19 Bypass intank regulator - (turn a plug in mini lathe and install) - Done 2-29-2019 6x aluminum injector bungs - (Fit and weld to lower section of upper intake) - Ebay $26 - Done Custom 1/2" fuel rails - $30 (cut custom length and step drill injector top bungs - tap ends) - Done GTX3076R ball bearing / .82 housing (Turbo was in my old G20 VET car pushing around 400whp on low boost) (I know it's small but I'm testing something new on this build, a GTX3582 may be next) (China version $650) 2.5" Mandrel bent mild steel exhaust kit $130 - has enough tubing to build 3 cars haha slight overkill 31x12x4" universal intercooler (undecided on actual type until I get the cold piping started) 2.5" couplings and aluminum pipe kit x2 (Ebay $80) Tial 50mm BOV (China $40) Installed 4-28-19 Turbosmart Ultragate 38mm Wastegate (China $75) Installed 4-28-19 Harbor Freight LED 20psi boost gauge $17.99 - 20% coupon (Was about $15.50 with tax haha) Other little stuff: 2008 350z HR front calipers and rotors (Parted from my 99' G20 vet car) - Done Custom cut down AC board for 2 din radio - Done Quad core Android 7 multimedia player - Torque app enabled $160 - Just finished install 1-5-19 RS7-G5 Remote start system $130 - Just finished install 1-5-19 Possibly tune stock ECU so we can change cold enrichment and slight primary fueling changes for ethanol. I'm going to test the stock 156k drivetrain under boost. I will be running pump E85 (about 64% ethanol) and conservative timing to see what it can take. If for some reason I grenade the engine or tranny I have a low mileage FX35 AWD drivetrain in my garage getting rebuilt with 8.8 wiseco / eagle rods and the tranny is also getting full treatment :) Parts list for the spare drivetrain: 2006 FX35 awd drivetrain 143k miles (same as G35x) Wiseco CRS5680N3D 95.5mm 8.8 CR ArmorGlide/ArmorPlating piston set $510 (ebay) Eagle H-beam con rods $435 ebay Rotating assembly balance service $250 Dingle ball hone Factory Nissan bearings VQ35HR head gaskets (Felpro) VQ35HR head bolts Main seals / Gaskets / misc RE5R05A rebuild - Frictions/Steels/Seals/Band (Maybe extra frictions and steels) $350 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...33b44044d1.jpg 2005 G35x 156k miles |
Nice build so far. Subbed.
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What he said^. Looking forward to seeing this beast come to life fully dressed.
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Wow im interested, awesome! I've thought about having a shop do the Transgo VB upgrade in 2019. Bring back some lost love to the car.
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Lookin' for a DIY on the custom cut down AC board for DD. Subbed to hear about this low cost turbo setup.
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Originally Posted by jbarnett250
(Post 7157622)
Lookin' for a DIY on the custom cut down AC board for DD. Subbed to hear about this low cost turbo setup.
Edit: I just started a thread today with what info I have already on the DD android install Android radio install with AC board cut down |
Sub'd as well!
Sounds like an awesome project and you definitely know what you're doing, and a welcome change from all the dreamer "this is my first car, what do I need to make a reliable 500whp" threads. Kudos and good luck! |
Originally Posted by g356sp
(Post 7157639)
Sub'd as well!
Sounds like an awesome project and you definitely know what you're doing, and a welcome change from all the dreamer "this is my first car, what do I need to make a reliable 500whp" threads. Kudos and good luck! |
I scored a rear wing and aftermarket rear bumper extension (nismo maybe??) at the junkyard. I'm not sure if I want to add them to this car yet... I kinda like the stock wheels and base body as a sleeper car. I just noticed that the previous owner removed the G35X badges so the trunk only has the I N F I N I T I emblem.
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I put 25k on my 350z at 475WHP, sold it, and the buyer has put another 10K on it, for a total of 75k on that DE motor now. It's all about the tune. Not sure if I would do anything other than uprev with the uprev MAF, unless going for north of 600, then time for a haltech.
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Yeah but uprev/uprev maf alone is over $1000 + the big injectors (about 600-700) and a complete map retune from what I have priced is about $600. That would be over half of my build budget :)
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Hp is one thing. Torque is another. High HP on a stock DE via supercharger and it'll hold up until you spin a bearing but big torque coming in low from a turbo or N2O will destroy the stock engine and the built automatic transmission. A fully built RE5RO5A in an FX will hold around 400 ft lbs from a turbo but more from a supercharger. It's how the torque hits that makes the difference. The transmission will slip. A guy who's put a lot into his turbo'd FX (RWD) over the years is on his 3rd transmission build. He found out the hard way. A G should fair a little better because it is lighter and the wheels are smaller. The transfer case can handle more than the transmission, so AWD is not the issue.
I hear installing ARP bolts on the bottom of the rods will help the bearings hold up better. |
Yeah, I'll be building something that gets into boost a little later than twin turbos so I'm not too worried until I see what 8-10lbs on the dyno does. The re5 transmission we are going build in the garage should be good once we find out the major wear items from the stock shift kitted 156k mile G35x. We are getting pretty good results with little RE4F03's in the G20's. Once we found the weak points we have been able to get about 300whp to the ground. That's pretty awesome since they are in a car that only puts 120-125whp down stock. I have researched the RE5 pretty good and I'm not too worried about what it can handle modified. Seeing that they are in stock applications like the titan truck 5.6l at almost 400ft/lbs and that's stock with no shift kit or special torque converter.
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A shift kit or torque converter isn't going to save that transmission. I have a Transgo also and love it. I'm AWD and chirp 2nd all day long and even 3rd ever so slightly on occasion in a fat-assed FX. The Transgo will keep down the heat between shifts but does nothing to "fortify" the tranny. The problem is the clutch packs. Even with the top built RE5RO5A from IPT, they're talking about a rating of 500 hp which is odd because who rates a transmission at horsepower? This is what I was told over the phone. HP doesn't kill trannys, it's torque and torque down low and too much of it around shift points.
You could call John @ IPT and ask him what his built nissan tranny will handle in terms of torque. He builds'em and sells the kit to build'em as well. The FX I referred to was a ST, not a TT, so a ST has the potential to put down too much too soon also. A Vortech supercharged FX was putting down near 500hp/400tq(?) to the wheels on a stock block and stock tranny for nearly 1 year before the tranny started slipping. The newer 7 speed auto's are even weaker and not desirable for FI IMO. Check out the g37 auto guys and all they're slipping transmissions at lower power levels. :bowrofl: The 7 speeds the one to get with modest power though. |
I agree the clutches are a problem in the Jatco transmissions. The high drum clutch set was the weak link in the RE4's that we build. So we made a modified drum setup that holds enough clutch for our application. We also learned about setting up clutch gap and shift timing while fixing those problems. Then we break the tranny and find the next weakest part :) If IPT says 500 hp limit I bet there are some hard parts breaking at that point. Only way around that is having billet or treated parts made $$$. Like I said I'm not too worried about it holding up since that is the only way to learn about a new setup and how it fails first hand.
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The guy I mentioned with the ST FX had the same done, a modified "basket" I think is how he referred to it. The threshold seemed to be around 425 ft lbs down low and then the trans would start slipping.
You could get a jump start and talk to John at IPT and pick his brain as much as he'll let ya I'll watch this thread as it seems like you might be the guy to make this semi-lame transmission less semi-lame. :coolio: |
Just started installing new brakes. 2008 350Z calipers, 2006 G35 rear caliper brackets, 2008 Z cross drilled / slotted rotors. Cheap big *** brake kit = $250
Found that the passenger front wheel bearing was shot so I'm changing them out now. $16 each |
I put some kind of cheap front bearings on my X a couple years ago and think one of them is already bad. I bought the Timken bearing to replace it but they're like $80.
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I will have 3 front bearings replaced out of 2 cars so we'll see how far they go. I haven't had any trouble out of the 6 cheap bearings I used on the G20 5 bolt conversion builds we did years back and one of the cars has over 50k on them now. The G35 has a lot smaller bearing up front compared to the G20.
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Yeah when I did one of my front wheel bearings my initial though was "no wonder it went bad" when I saw how small it was.
However I've been working on a lot of F350 and Ram 3500's lately so everything on the G looks laughably small in comparison. |
Just finished up the RS7-G5 2 way remote start system. That is a real slick remote start setup. It was worth every penny and I now have remotes for the car!!! I also copied the only key that came with the car so I now have 2 keys and 2 remotes. Another project that got finished up since the dash and console were torn apart is the Android multimedia center install and cutting the AC board down. I still have quite a few hours left to finish up the AC board but the android unit is all finished up.
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I just installed the same starter. Did you connect the hood switch input? There's another RS7 diy install thread but it didn't include where to find that wire in the car and I'm embarrassed to say I couldn't figure out exactly where the IPDM E/R is in my car to find the wire in the connector there. Not trying to divert the turbo thread into a remote starter thread... but did you find an easy/clean way to get the wire into the engine bay?
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I didn't use it. I actually unplug the factory hood switch and remove it also. I did this to both G's since I had a bad hinge on the 04' and it would set the factory alarm off randomly and it's just more crap to give me a headache. Honestly I'm not too worried about someone getting under the hood to steal the car, if someone wants my car bad enough they'll show up with a flatbed and get it a lot quicker.
The one thing I didn't get quite right was the parking lights. I used the hazard flasher negative since it was right there and turned off the illumination timer for the parking lights when disarmed. But when you start it the primary's still come on and they flash (hazards) haha..... The turn off as soon as you key in and hit the brake so it's alright for now I guess. |
I wasn't worried about someone getting into my hood. I just don't like the idea that it could be accidentally started if I'm under the hood. I didn't bother with the parking lights or horn since I still have to carry the oem fob to drive i just use that for security. I didn't have to touch the BCM harnesses at all.
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A few codes popped up, P0300 & P0021. I knew that it was missing once in awhile at idle and it had a weird hesitation at 3800-4000 rpm. So I decided to open up the top end of the motor and get things fixed up for the turbo setup. I removed the upper intake, removed the valve covers, re sealed the valve covers for boost, installed NGK R spark plugs @ .35 gap, cleaned the intake cam solenoids and made sure the screens were clean, installed the new OEM cam sensors I had sitting around. I cleared the codes and drove it and it was a completely different car. The dual platinum Autolite plugs were shot and @ about .80 gap.
The valve cover gaskets were sealed with Ultra grey RTV. I cleaned the covers and made sure they were completely oil free, used grey RTV in the gasket slot, carb cleaned the fel-pro gaskets to get the mold release off of them, installed the gaskets in the valve cover, bolted the covers to my mock engine in the garage and let them sit over night. Cleaned the head surfaces, cleaned the steel spark plug tubes with carb cleaner and scotch brite pads, used a thin layer of grey RTV on head surface and spark plug tubes, Used a thin layer in the valve cover spark plug tube gaskets also. Then I installed them back on the engine. This is about the same way we seal our SR20 covers and never have had a leak up to 26 PSI. The only down point is that the covers are probably permanent and may never come off of the engine again :) The spark plugs and gap will probably be played around with quite a bit as we aren't sure what boost we can get away with on the factory ignition without blowout. Edit : So far 11psi on NGK "R" @ .035 gap is working good |
Had the car finished up and it was steaming and loosing water.... Found that the top radiator hose must have pulled on the neck and cracked the radiator. I should have known better since I had this happen a couple years back on one of our SR cars while changing a tranny. At least AM-autoparts is only 3 hours away from me so my stuff always gets here in 2 days. Was only $55 but I had to widen the lower condenser mounting holes with a dremel and flat file. I'm kinda glad I broke it since it was the original 13+ year old unit and it had probably 5-6 hand fulls of leaves,grass, and dirt between the radiator and condenser!
Note to self: Always disconnect radiator hoses when jacking the engine around!! |
Originally Posted by scumbagsleeper
(Post 7159660)
I'm kinda glad I broke it since it was the original 13+ year old unit and it had probably 5-6 hand fulls of leaves,grass, and dirt between the radiator and condenser!
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We just finished up the upper intake / fuel rail setup in the last 2 weekends (Added pics above). I'm going to get the car in the garage and add the return line, regulator, and fuel pump then I'll wire in the FIC6 to control them. I'm pretty sure I won't need to change much on the G35 ECU depending on what fuel pressure I run. I'll probably just need to add a little fuel to the main table and change the cold start table for E85. I have decided to just re flash my stock ECU with the fueling changes, it will take quite a bit of road tuning and flashing but it's not going to cost me anything but time. I have just about finished writing a romraider definition for my ECU so I can test it soon. Most of the important live tuning will be with the AEM FIC when it's under boost.
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Been driving the car for about 1k miles and it felt doggy and almost feels like it would fall on it's face a little when the throttle is stabbed. Since everything on the car is original 159k mile parts I decided to start checking sensors. I swapped the MAF and it was exactly the same. So I bought 2 brand new Bosch widebands (upstreams) since they are on my STD list before the turbo install. After about 5 mins of driving the car woke up big time, even gets a long tire bark into 2nd gear. The regular service life of the sensors should be good for 80k miles. After that they can get sluggish. My 04' G35x is still on it's original sensors @ 136k and feels good but I think I might datalog the two cars now that I have one with end of life sensors and one with brand new just to see the difference.
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I'd like to see the logs for the upstream sensors if you can post them. I'm debugging some problems with mine and would like to see what known good sensor traces look like.
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^^ I'm very interested in that datalog. I need an excuse to replace my 140k mile sensors but if the car runs fine and doesn't throw codes I can't find one :(
Were the old (bad) sensors still showing as running properly under closed loop with no codes? |
They'll show that they're "working" if you are just idling the engine, it's not until you start to mash the throttle that you really see the difference in how much quicker a fresh sensor responds.
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Yeah, no codes because I have been making sure the car is perfect before I start the turbo install. So if I didn't have another G35x I probably would have missed this problem since I have never driven one before I bought both cars. It was kinda hard to buy $190 worth of sensors when you just paid $500 for the car haha. I'll try to get some data logging TPS vs O2 but it would have been better to get logging on the ones I just pulled since they were really bad and my 04' seems to run very well for the mileage (136k). Oh, I just remembered that my mileage was a bit worse than the 04' too. I' just filled up this morning (running E15 on both cars) and am doing a mileage check to see if it picks back up.
Anyway we are going to start installing the return fuel line, FPR, AEM 340lph fuel pump, modified upper intake, gt500 injectors, and Fic6 with injector wiring harness pretty soon. After we get it finished up I'll make sure everything is running correctly and then start street tuning NA on E85 (about 67% here) so it's ready for some boost. Tuning the Hitachi ecu for E85 will take us the most time to get perfect. When we add the turbo and tune with the FIC it should only take one night to tune. We'll also datalog it and use virtual dyno to get a rough idea where we are at. |
Didn't get much time to work on the fuel system this weekend. At least I got my poor man's return fuel line kit installed. I used a stock 2004 fuel line installed into the extra slot on the OEM fuel line hangers for that OEM look. Added pics up top.
I filled up the tank after the O2 sensor change. It get's the same mileage as my 04' now - Got 17.3mpg city (E15 fuel) |
This week the car has had a weird spot from 2200 - 3500 RPM. Kind of a slight studder or loss of power. We started logging the car against my 04' to see why. The ECU was pulling 7-10 degrees of timing so I checked the codes and it had stored Knock sensor high and low errors. We cleared them out and the timing came back to normal until I got really hard on it and barked 2nd gear then the timing started backing off again. It didn't pop the codes again but I am guessing after awhile it will. So I'm going to guess the knock sensor or sub harness may have a problem. I pulled both off of my spare FX35 drive train and took the harness to work to clean up, test, and solder the crimp connectors to make sure I don't have any more issues with this. We already tested the FX35 knock sensor output and it looks good. the harder we smack it the higher the output :) Sooner or later I'll get this thing gremlin free so I feel safe to boost it....
Hopefully this weekend I'll get it changed out. I may put on the new upper intake with injectors and rails during assembly so that is done at the same time. Another note: The CEL light never came on, it just stored the code. |
Made a plug on the lathe last night to block off the internal fuel regulator built onto the top of the fuel filter. I'm replacing the fuel filter also, it had nasty brown crap pouring out of it. The tank we pulled this from was crystal clean so the filter really did it's job. I'm also going to flow check, flow match and clean the primary injectors to make sure she is running purrfect. I'm going to install a Aeromotive Stealth 340lph #11542 since I had one laying around from an old G20 project car. Pretty much the same thing as the AEM green pump I was going to order.
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The fuel pump hangar is pretty much done. I had all of the fittings and parts laying around in the garage so I was thankful that I didn't have to order anything. The Areomotive pump was longer than stock so I had to cut the 4 tabs off of the bottom side of the pump, Also had to trim the upper side of the fuel filter so the pump outlet gasket would bottom out and seal, and cut the bottom plate so the pre filter screen didn't interfere, drilled a hole in the bottom plate for the pump internal relief. I ran the fuel return to the factory venturi and hope it still works correctly with the new setup. If not I'll look into a aftermarket replacement like this one:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Je...-Kit-P760.aspx Also we figured out the knock sensor / harness problem that was pulling timing out. While I was back there unplugging the original one I pulled on the harness and the wires came right out of the looming. It was rubbed in half! Looks like there is a pretty sharp edge on the cylinder head the rubs it over time. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...ee5656f605.jpg |
We just about finished up the fuel system this weekend. Chasing a few drips, and triple checking things so we don't burn the car down :) I picked up a Harbor Freight boost / Vac gauge Sunday. They are actually very accurate but unfortunately only go to 20psi,
I also cleaned and flow tested the stock 160k mile injectors on my modified injector machine. It's a Chinese injector tester (that's about all they can do, no flow testing ability how they come or even stable pressure) with a stock G20 fuel pump and added a return fuel system on the side. I actually need to change several things on it so I can accurately flow 6 injectors at the same time. I was quite surprised that all 6 injectors were within less than 1% of each other so I didn't need to grab the set off of the FX35 spare engine to match a set closer. Most Injector flow places only match within 2%, unless it's really high end ones like ID or big expensive stuff. I'm actually going to run the new return system @ 4.5 bar fuel pressure to compensate for the E85 (actually 67% here) fuel that I'll be using. The G35 injectors: 3.5 Bar FP @ 15secs = 82cc x4 (60 seconds) 328cc 4.0 Bar FP @ 15secs = 88cc x4 (60 seconds) 352cc The GT500 injectors flow 588cc @ 3 bar ( I need to upgrade the fuel system on my flow bench to test above 3 bar with BIG injectors) |
Picked up a AEM Fic6 really cheap ($225) new in the box. Got it installed and the 6x extra injector harness too. I normally make a patch harness so I can remove it and make wiring changes but there is so much room where the ECU harness lays that I decided to just hard wire it into the car. The mini glove box was a great place for the AEM. I just removed the glove box light and ran the harness and reference vac/boost line through. I added a few pics up top.
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What injector cleaner is that? I need to upgrade mine since it's only a crappy little single injector unit but don't want to spend too much since it's rarely used.
EDIT: You need to put the deadfront back on your panelboard man. |
It's a MR. Cart Tool China unit I bought off aliexpress about 3-4 years ago. I don't think they even make that model anymore because they were so crappy. I pretty much gutted mine and used parts laying around to make it work correctly. I was pretty upset when it came in and started testing injectors with it and I found out that it couldn't keep a constant fuel pressure while flow testing. One of these days I'll get it finished up to flow 6 large injectors at a time.
I'll get my panel back on after I'm done welding everything on the 05' turbo G project. I borrowed my brothers Syncrowave and it's wired into the 220 temporarily :) I know my garage isn't OSHA safe, it's more like 99 ways to die in there right now haha |
I'm adding some stuff we have finished up through the last 2 weekends. I'll add more pics and info through the week when I have more time.
So we haven't ever built a rear mount turbo and the G35x was a perfect car for the project. With the front differential and all of the X stuff there really wasn't room to work without pulling the drive train. It's going to be fun to play with and see first hand how well we can get her to spool up. We have already finished up the Hot pipes with 2.5" mandrel bent mild steel, Cold side is finished up with 2.5" aluminum, and the oiling system is going to be dedicated so I don't have to run any lines to it. So just a turbo in the trunk with a oiling system period. As I have listed above we used my old GTX3076R .82 from the old G20 VET car and also the stainless OBX muffler from it too! The cool thing about how we set this up is that we can pull the turbo and change it out in about 45 mins so we can test different setups. I have a feeling a GTX3582r will be in the works later on if things work well. Things left: Some wiring, gauge placement, programing a controller for the oiling system, road fuel tuning, and some tweaking on the fuel regulator. . |
Wow I've never seen a rear turbo setup like that. Do you build a rear firewall to prevent accidental carbon monoxide leaks into the cabin? How do you route the intake piping back up to the engine again? Are there any problems with such a large intake volume from having such a long intake pipe? Where do you mount the oil cooler?
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Right now I'm just testing everything. It's all unknown to me and just a lot of research on rear mounts between STS and a bunch of custom race built stuff. It's really no different than a STS kit but in the trunk. I'll probably box the hot side in later when I'm finished up with everything but doubt there will be any leakage at the T3 / 4 bolt exit flange with the type of gaskets I used. Could throw in one of those home carbon monoxide detectors in there just in case haha but probably isn't any worse than some of the old cars I had with exhaust leaks :)
Right now I am running without intercooler so the volume probably isn't as bad as you would think. I'm going to log IAT's on low boost and creep it up and find out when I will need water injection that will #1 cool the charge #2 add a slight HP boost because of the cooler charge. Another cooling factor is the aluminum tubing acts as a small intercooler itself. Hopefully the intake volume won't effect the spool and the exhaust distance won't either... Lot's to play with. Oh, the routing wasn't as bad as I though. Especially with a X AWD car. I'll add pics tomorrow when I get some more time. Oil pump / cooler: I'm running a gerotor type pump and aluminum tank with pressure monitor and temp monitor. Bench testing the pump system I have learned that we needed to run the pump with a PWM control to keep the pressure consistent because of oil temp and viscosity. So we run the pump at lower voltage (reduces heat) as the temp rises. I still have a lot of work to do with that part of it and getting the car built so I can real world test it will speed the process up. We could probably do this in a simple crude way but I would rather have the oil delivery keep a consistent pressure at all temps because it will be driven in summer and winter months. I'm not sure if and when we will need a oil cooler until I get it on the road and start watching the turbo oil temp. |
Added some more pics up top. So in the last two weekends my brother came over and helped weld everything so I wouldn't make a mess of it :) We worked for about 3 days and got the hot side finished up. 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust tube kit ($130) was enough to build at least 3 cars like this since it was a full dual exhaust kit. The cold side was built from 2x 2.5" universal intercooler pipe kit with couplers and clamps ($75 - $78 each). We got the Turbosmart ultragate welded in and the Tial 50mm BOV installed. I still have a wiring issue with the ECU and FIC6 that I'm going through the FSM and AEM's tech sheet to figure out. I probably was just too tired after work and missed something simple, The fuel regulator won't regulate to the minimum stated pressure so I am going to systematically remove restrictions in the return line to find out what the problem is there. I have a sneaky suspicion that it's the venturi because it is very small diameter. I still need to tap the compressor outlet or cold pipe and hook up a reference line to the wastegate. I need to run a wiring harness I made for a custom oil/fuel pressure gauge (arduino based of course). If we get any time we are going to start a new gauge project to pull the factory knock/wideband information to a LCD display. Might add the turbo health (oil temp and pressure) to the same LCD. It sounds like a lot but it is actually really close to road tuning time and I'm starting to get excited to play with it.
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Here is how my morning started... I'm in the 2004 G35X DD car 3 blocks from work I am stopped at a traffic light and look in my rear view mirror to see a Chevy truck about to slam me so I hold the brakes as hard as possible. (Should have done that brake upgrade! in the back of my head right about that point) I get slammed and miss the car in front of me by a few inches. Called 911 and sat for a minute collecting my info. Waited for traffic to clear and went back to the truck to see if we could move the vehicles to the side. He said " I can but the car under my truck bed probably can't". There was a little VW Passat V6 with the nose under the truck bed covered in angle iron and cut off metal supplies from his truck. About then the state patrol showed up and started checking everybody until the city police got done with breakfast or whatever they were doing and they finally showed up. I asked the city police if either vehicle had insurance and he said the girl in back with the VW won't answer questions and has no proof of insurance, the car is not registered, and he thinks she is under the influence.... The guy in the truck also has no proof of insurance so you should probably start taking pictures. So I go back to the kid in the truck and start questioning him and he said his parents are on the way with insurance and he was fully covered! THANK YOU GOD! and about that time they pull this 20-24 year old girl with out of the VW to do a sobriety test and she can't walk a line without stumbling all over the place. It's 7am right now and she has a lanyard with work ID on and I heard the cop say she blew a .338 and it was her second offence! Guess she is having a worse morning than I am! (As they cuff the girl and put her in the police car) So the damage was all rear on mine. The rear bumper cover, trunk, wing, all the lights, one bend on the driver rear wheel well, probably rear frame damage too and the rear view mirror flew off the front windshield leaving a huge chip in the windshield where it used to be.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...5f7b6e0a6b.jpg |
Wow. That's a bummer in so many ways. Trust you are okay. No neck discomfort I hope; presume you jammed head to rest too when you jammed the brakes.
.338 at 7 AM? Wow. Hope that was from the party AFTER her shift ended? Always a financial bummer. Insurance value will total it out. So sad. You have another in the stable to press into service as DD? |
I'm good, it wasn't too bad of an impact. The two behind me is another story. I'll keep driving this car until insurance makes a verdict. I'm guessing that they will total it out too, I'll buy it back to patch up for now or part out later. The car is only at 135k miles (bought it with 125k) and average book is $4000. They will probably want about $700-$800 on buy back.
The two behind me: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...17d67f9ec8.jpg |
You're gonna be ****ing hurting tommorow. Sorry to hear about that.
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