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First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.

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Old May 13, 2016 | 01:08 PM
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First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.

Hey guys! First time being part of a car forum here. It feels refreshing to finally be part of a community of car lovers. I've lusted after G35s and 350 Zs since I was a wee lad, and now I finally get to partake in the goodness of loving the car I drive! This car is a recent purchase and today is my third day owning it. Loving every second so far.

Here's some specs:

- 2005 Infiniti G35 6MT (yeah, I lucked out)

- 156,000 miles

- Rebuilt title (front end collision at 11,000 miles. Was mostly cosmetic, no frame damage, and has been running awesome since then. No alignment issues.) The second owner of the car I just bought it from ran it 140k+ miles with no mechanical issues. Don't worry, I didn't buy it on a whim. I had it inspected by two mechanics and they found no issues with it.

- Stock engine, transmission, clutch, and suspension. Regular synthetic oil changes at 3,000 miles/3 months done by a shop.

- Bose premium sound package

- Powered sunroof

- No annoying mods or extras (thank goodness)



Now of course, it comes with a few issues at 156k. Here are some of the things I'm seeing:
- Discoloration on headlights. Needs restoration. I'm planning on doing that first.

- Lots of paint chips on the front with multiple scratches all over the car.

- Rattle on front driver suspension. Could be a failed strut or a simple bearing I'm told. (I don't know suspension systems very well, but I want to learn.) Since it's factory suspension, I think I'll end up replacing a lot of the components as my first major repairs. Any ideas of which parts would be best to replace/check out first?

- The clutch pedal sometimes sticks, and I have to stick my foot under and pop it up. I've read a couple threads on the forum about replacing the clutch fluid or checking the cabling and such. Any other suggestions there?

- The clutch pedal also vibrates when I'm under 1,500 rpms and shifting into 1st or 2nd gear. It's smooth with the other 4. Also read this on the forum. I understand that the stick will vibrate because its RWD, but the clutch pedal vibrates the same as when your brake pedal vibrates when you have a slightly warped rotor in those lower rpms. At what point should I replace the clutch?



Like I said, I'm a younger, college-age, recently married G35 driver and I don't have all the money in the world to spend on upgrades and repairs like other enthusiasts, but I will spend what I need to to keep her purring happily for the next few years and hopefully a few upgrades here and there. I'm hoping to spend about $350 (less if possible) every once in a while for maintenance. I'm not super car literate, but I'm learning and I plan to do all the repairs and upgrades myself. I have some good mechanic friends that will have all the tools and help I would ever need.


So, recap:

My goal: Keep my lovely G35 running smooth, stay on top of maintenance and repairs (perform preventative maintenance), and do so on a frugal budget. Hopefully I can justify a few upgrades like air intake, exhaust, or suspension and make her even more enjoyable to drive. Other cheap mods like LED lights are also on my radar.

I would love some feedback on what I should focus my efforts/money on first and the best bang-for-the-buck repairs and upgrades. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has asked this, so if you don't have words of wisdom for me here just point me in the right direction!

Thanks again for reading my novel of a post! Thank you in advance for all your help. Happy to be a part of the forum!

I've included some pics (they are oriented correctly on my comp but for some reason rotate sideways when I upload them....).

Here's a YouTube link where I do a quick rundown of the car:
 
Attached Thumbnails First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0568.jpg   First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0569.jpg   First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0570.jpg   First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0571.jpg   First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0572.jpg  

First G35 at 25! Need some pointers from some pros.-img_0573.jpg  

Last edited by G35@25; May 13, 2016 at 11:02 PM.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:11 PM
  #2  
Texasscout's Avatar
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Originally Posted by G35@25
Hey guys! First time being part of a car forum here. It feels refreshing to finally be part of a community of car lovers. I've lusted after G35s and 350 Zs since I was a wee lad, and now I finally get to partake in the goodness of loving the car I drive! This car is a recent purchase and today is my third day owning it. Loving every second so far.

Here's some specs:

- 2005 Infiniti G35 6MT (yeah, I lucked out)

- 156,000 miles

- Rebuilt title (front end collision at 11,000 miles. Was mostly cosmetic, no frame damage, and has been running awesome since then. No alignment issues.) The second owner of the car I just bought it from ran it 140k+ miles with no mechanical issues. Don't worry, I didn't buy it on a whim. I had it inspected by two mechanics and they found no issues with it.

- Stock engine, transmission, clutch, and suspension. Regular synthetic oil changes at 3,000 miles/3 months done by a shop.

- Bose premium sound package

- Powered sunroof

- No annoying mods or extras (thank goodness)



Now of course, it comes with a few issues at 156k. Here are some of the things I'm seeing:
- Discoloration on headlights. Needs restoration. I'm planning on doing that first.
3-M Head light restoration kit, works wonders

- Lots of paint chips on the front with multiple scratches all over the car.
Touch up paint, you know the drill

- Rattle on front driver suspension. Could be a failed strut or a simple bearing I'm told. (I don't know suspension systems very well, but I want to learn.) Since it's factory suspension, I think I'll end up replacing a lot of the components as my first major repairs. Any ideas of which parts would be best to replace/check out first?
This one has me bugged also, (same year) my mechanic says it's the steering rack. The bushings at the end of the rack are worn and when the move up and down with wheel movement, it rattles. Fix is new rack $$$$. He said don't buy a rebuilt rack, they don't last. But, that I could drive it for quite a while longer without worry.

- The clutch pedal sometimes sticks, and I have to stick my foot under and pop it up. I've read a couple threads on the forum about replacing the clutch fluid or checking the cabling and such. Any other suggestions there?
First, flush all the fluid from the master/slave. If that doesn't work, new clutch

- The clutch pedal also vibrates when I'm under 1,500 rpms and shifting into 1st or 2nd gear. It's smooth with the other 4. Also read this on the forum. I understand that the stick will vibrate because its RWD, but the clutch pedal vibrates the same as when your brake pedal vibrates when you have a slightly warped rotor in those lower rpms. At what point should I replace the clutch?
Yup, Don't buy OEM, go with the Jim Wolf Technology Clutch pack. It will run you about $800.00 and the install is about $450.00 but it will be the last clutch you will ever need. The dealer will change almost double.



Like I said, I'm a younger, college-age, recently married G35 driver and I don't have all the money in the world to spend on upgrades and repairs like other enthusiasts, but I will spend what I need to to keep her purring happily for the next few years and hopefully a few upgrades here and there. I'm hoping to spend about $350 (less if possible) every once in a while for maintenance. I'm not super car literate, but I'm learning and I plan to do all the repairs and upgrades myself. I have some good mechanic friends that will have all the tools and help I would ever need.


So, recap:

My goal: Keep my lovely G35 running smooth, stay on top of maintenance and repairs (perform preventative maintenance), and do so on a frugal budget. Hopefully I can justify a few upgrades like air intake, exhaust, or suspension and make her even more enjoyable to drive. Other cheap mods like LED lights are also on my radar.

I would love some feedback on what I should focus my efforts/money on first and the best bang-for-the-buck repairs and upgrades. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has asked this, so if you don't have words of wisdom for me here just point me in the right direction! Get that clutch checked out!, also bushing front and rear, they are due. Check the bushings on the differential, they may be leaking oil. Change ALL the fluids! Brake, Clutch, Trans, Diff NOW!

Thanks again for reading my novel of a post! Thank you in advance for all your help. Happy to be a part of the forum!

I've included some pics (they are rotated in the thumbnails for some reason but aren't when you click on them) and when my upload to YouTube is complete I will include a link to it that gives a little video rundown of the car so you can get a good feel for it.
I have one just like her.
 
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Old May 13, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Thank you so much for your input! That is VERY helpful! I've also read some conversation about installed a z-tube and a K&N filter. The filter stands to be replaced. Is it worth it to go to that extent to improve the air intake system?
 

Last edited by G35@25; May 13, 2016 at 08:22 PM.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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In a motor that old, a K&an will be fine. I don't recommend them for a new motor. They don't filter as well as a paper filter. As for the Z-tube, all it will do is change the sound of the intake noise. It won't add a noticeable amount of hp.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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G35@25, Tex could easily be wrong about the clutch! Pedal sticking from my experiencing is caused by the clutch master cylinder allowing fluid thru so it needs replacing once you can no long bring the pedal back up or before if you don't wish to be stranded! Good Luck, hope this high mileage ride doesn't empty your wallet!
Gary
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:00 AM
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That's the first thing I said, " flush the master/slave"
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gary c
Pedal sticking from my experiencing is caused by the clutch master cylinder allowing fluid thru so it needs replacing once you can no long bring the pedal back up or before if you don't wish to be stranded!
Gary
The sticking is only minor and only happens at the very top after the clutch is engaged. I would say it sticks at the last 10% of pulling off the clutch. It's more annoying than alarming. I'll try going cheaper first, and like texas said flush all the fluids and see what that does. I'll definitely keep the master cylinder in mind though. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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how much did you spend on her
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by _Ghost_G35
how much did you spend on her
I dropped $4,500.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by G35@25
I dropped $4,500.
That's a good price
 
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 06:00 PM
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Nice find!

I'm 49 and probably older than most of the guys on this forum. I bought my 04 6MT sedan four years ago and I love it. I've had 5 and 7 series BMWs, late model Jags, and other nice cars but for my money the G cannot be beat for it's combination of style, reliability, comfort and performance. I lucked out and found a one-owner G with 60,000 miles on it. I wasn't planning on keeping it (I was going to order an Audi A6) but I really, really liked it right away.

Yeah, you could get as much style and performance from a decent 3-series BMW or Audi A4, but forget comfort (way too small for me) and completely forget reliability.

If you want to do a few nice mods but keep the costs down, you can look into the "G/Z" suspension upgrade - that's using springs from the coupe and 350Z to lower your car about 1" without any sacrifice. Those springs come up here used all the time for like nothing. You already have the nice Rays wheels. Those look the best on the Sedan IMO. I found a 19" set from a coupe and restored them myself.

As everyone else has said, just baseline all your fluids, address the stuff that's on its way out, and your car will serve you well for another 150K miles.

FWIW our headlight plastic sucks. You can restore them but they'll just go yellow again in a few months. Just accept it. The only other option is replacement. If you're replacing them you can go with cheap ebay ones that look look too rice for my tastes, or find a nice OEM donor pair. They're out there, you just have to be patient.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 05:09 AM
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[QUOTE=TheIronYuppy;7089208]Nice find!

You already have the nice Rays wheels.


No, he has the 05-06 6MT sedan 18's.


Rays vs 18's

 
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 06:56 AM
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My OEM 18s got bent to shizzz after about a year.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 07:44 AM
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[QUOTE=theronz;7089252]
Originally Posted by TheIronYuppy
Nice find!

You already have the nice Rays wheels.


No, he has the 05-06 6MT sedan 18's.
Oh hey, look at that! I thought the OEM 18s were made by Rays too. I guess not.

Anyway, that's the best looking wheel on the sedan IMO.
 
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