Hey fellas. Brand new to this site. Google always takes me here for reference, so i figured why not join? Ive had my 03 g35 sedan for a year now. Purchased it from a 'buy here, pay here' stealership for less than $4k. A ton of issues have already been fixed but theres still many more. One of which is electrical. Sometimes the dash wont light up when i start it, but it usually comes on after a few good smacks above the gauges. But the most pressing issue is the transmission. First drive of the day, it does fine. If i drive it more throughout the day, it takes longer to downshift. When i put it in drive after its been driving a lot, it takes about 1.5 seconds to actually grip the gear. If i have to stop abruptly, i have to put it in neutral because it wont downshift in time. These issues only happen when ive been driving it around town a lot. Driving it to work in the morning is usually fine and so is driving it home, but the more i drive it, the worse it gets. Any thoughts on what it could be/what i should do? This car is too much fun to get rid of honestly

 

When was the last time the trans fluid was replaced? Might start there.

 

No clue. I havent since i got the car. But my transmission didnt come with a dipstick to check it

 

These cars have a few known issues with the soldering on the back of the instrument panel/circuit board (fuel gauge issues, dimmed back lighting etc), which is likely the culprit for your issues as well. As for the tranny - replace the fluid and you'll probably be fine (as LexD said), also look into installing a grounding kit.

 

Ah okay, i feel much better now. I knew i came to the right place! Will keep y'all updated once i change the fluid. One question: what is a grounding kit and where do i find one?

 

Figured id add some photos

Plastidipped the front and back badges as well as the door handles. Painted the wheels gunmetal bc they looked like ***


Deleted the muffler and welded on a random exhaust pipe found in my friend's yard




The plastic fender got ripped off when i took it offroad, so my RAM intake is now actually a cold air intake


The stock intake was dry rotted when i got it, so i replaced it with a garbage tube i found on ebay. The filter it came with ended up falling apart, so i got this one from autozone. Yes, that is a hurricane strap holding the tube in place. Lots of ghetto work done, but ive done it all myself (with help of some friends).

 

Grounding kit just adds electrical grounds from the engine/transmission to the battery, as the factory grounds are on the weaker side. They definitely aren't necessary, but folks with automatic Gs reported good results. If you search around a user called SxExCx made/sold a well made grounding kit that reportedly made a big difference in the speed of and response of the automatic transmissions. I installed one on my 6mt because I got it for cheap, and I did notice the audio quality of the Bose stereo got a little better when playing MP3 CDs, and pedal response seemed better but that could have been placebo/wishful thinking. As for finding one, I think Stillen still makes one, otherwise keep your ear to the used market and you'll find one eventually.

 

Gotcha. Definitely will look into one. Sometimes when it gets in gear, itll make a sound similar to a breaker switching on/off. The electronic "click". Not sure if its good or bad, but i feel like a grounding kit may help with that. As far as a dipstick, are they easy to find? I was told my particular model didnt come with one.

 

2003 has a tube to the transmission for a dipstick. You may not have the dipstick, though the tube is there waiting for one. Behind the engine and center, If the stick is there. It should be bolted down with a 10mm(?) nut.
I think the transmission gets worse the more you drive due to the viscosity of the fluid having gone to **** or the transmission oil cooler (bottom part of radiator) isn't doing it's job. The oils thinning out as it gets hot. Could be that the internals are worn out. Get a FSM.
There's many ways to get those headlights clear again and it's pretty easy to do. It'll make the front end look much better.

 

It is indeed a 10mm holding that tube cap in place. I just need to order a dipstick for it. If changing the fluid doesnt work, ill look into getting the transmission oil cooler replaced. I didnt even know that was a thing tbh. Overall, id rather not have to replace the whole trans itself. I hate to ask but what is an FSM? As for the lights, i had the passenger side cleared up a few months ago but its gone back to being foggy. The driver side seems to be foggy underneath the surface. I spent at least an hour and used several coats of whatever buffing material i had and it still didnt work on that one. I may just replace the lights altogether

 

FSM = field service manual.
Inexpensive kits can be had to bring headlights back to perfect clarity. I've used these products multiple times with excellent results. You gotta work the product, not coat it. It's like sanding the plastic, which with the right sandpaper and knowledge, you could do as well. Using a v36 or v38 chemical guys polish works well on plastic also. I did my tail lights with v38. Get a kit that also comes with a clear coat which will protect the lenses for a couple years or more.Walmart/Autozone, etc. has this stuff. The sun beats the **** out of everything.
Ah, so there is definitely no dip stick there? Wow. There's a cap but no stick? Nutz. Who knows what could've entered the transmission through that tube if it's been open without a cap. How long has it been missing? You don't know. The only problem is you run the risk of replacing a fluid that MIGHT be allowing the transmission to function. When a trans hasn't been serviced (oil replaced) for far too long, the fluid might be the only thing that's allowing it to function as the grit in the old fluid is providing friction. You can research this and make you're call but I would do as I wrote above as it sounds like the trans it hurting.
Get a stick from a bone yard or ebay & like 7 quarts of trans fluid. 5 quarts should do 1 flush but you don't know if you're short. Check the level multiple times after letting the car warm up for 5 minutes at idle (per the FSM, the trans needs to be hot for a dip stick reading). Let it cool down, pull the trans pan plug, let it drain and visually inspect the fluid afterwards. Smell it. Taste it. Kidding. Don't drive the car until you get this resolved, that is if you want to attempt to keep this transmission. You'll need to be careful so you don't add in too much fluid. Perhaps call a local Nissan dealer and ask them about their cost for a transmission service. Additives such as LUCAS and possibly others/all are not recommended.

 

*Factory Service Manual

 

I call it a field service manual cause I'm out in the "field" and the manual I use IS NOT owned by Nissan's cheap, punk asses. Shame on Nissan for pulling the fsm's from sites like nicoclub

 

Ill look into some headlight cleaning kits. But eventually i will replace them. Yup, the cap is there, just no dipstick. I was told my version didnt come with one so that the owner wouldnt be able to change the fluid him/herself. And honestly, thats what im afraid of; the current fluid being the only thing holding it together. Thats how it was with the oil. I didnt have any oil leaks till i got my oil changed. Then the front and rear main seals started leaking right after i changed it. Also, i need to replace the seats. Im literally about to fall thru my seat. My buddy has some nice aftermarket seats he's selling me, but the rails he has for them are for a celica. Anyone know where i may find a decent rail system for aftermarket seats that doesnt cost and arm and a leg?

 

The oil may have been thicker or it had an additive. There is a product that'll swell the seals up. Can't remember what it's called but it's like $18. It works. Used it on an old dd beater taurus.