My G35 doesn’t want to start all it does is crank.
I bought it non running as a risky move and I don’t really want to sell it but I might have to. I got a quote saying it was the BCM. I changed it and got the key re programmed. Still no start. It has gas something is preventing it from spark. Then the battery died from trying too much. I got a new battery and changed the spark plugs(the picture is the old ones.) I’ve checked all my relays and fuses and everything is good. I’ve changed my crank and cam sensors and those are good too. And the car has no codes whatsoever.. I do have some background on the car though. The owner said while driving it shut off. (This has nothing to do with the engine but the famous rear differential bushing is out.) I’m at a loss and I would really appreciate if anyone could help out on why it won’t start thanks!
The famous bushing anyone know a good replacement?

Old plugs (I replaced all six. These are just the first 3.)I changed them to NGK.

 

Is your check engine light on? If yes, then pull the code.

 

Thanks for the help but I already said in the post that the Car doesn’t have any codes meaning the light isn’t on.

 

Is the security light on? You can try back probing the coil harness to check for voltage or something to make sure it's getting a signal.

 

BCM needs to get matched to the ECM by Nissan. I recommend you tow it to the dealership and have them program it. Then if there's anything else wrong your u can get a diagnostic.

Z1 Motorsports makes a nice rear diff bushing.

 

The security light is not on. it was on when I got the BCM installed but after the key got programmed it was off when in the ignition.

 

What I was reading was that the BCM is plug and play. But I’ll read into what you said thanks. And I already had a diagnostic. They said it just was the BCM but obviously that isn’t the main problem.

 

I'd start with one of the ignition coil wires and see if you're getting a signal, power, ground, etc. Then move back to the ignition condenser, switch, and wiring to the IPDM.

 

Thanks I appreciate it I’ll definitely look into that and test them. The shop I brought it to did a electrical test(Or so they say.) and they didn’t inform me about broken wires in the trunk and that the trunk didn’t work. Now I already knew that but you’d think that they would let you know regardless if you knew or not.

 

Technically it is plug and play, but the NATS/IVIS initialization needs to be done in the ECM to accept the signal it's sending otherwise it won't give spark/fuel when cranking.

If you DO HAVE SPARK then it's not a NATS problem.

Also, the red light on the left side of the dash is controlled by the BCM, if it accepts the key transponder then it sends the start signal to the starting contactor in the IPDM to engage the starter, it also sends coded data to the ECM. However if the ECM isn't programmed to accept that NATS package then it will just ignore it and not fire injectors/coil packs.

Otherwise car thieves would simply take a BCM and key combination that were already mated together, break into a vehicle, swap the BCM and use their key to drive off with the vehicle. NATS/IVIS is what prevents this from happening and it's configured via Consult - II or III.

There's a section in the FSM under Body/Locks/Security that goes into more detail about this as well as the Consult NATS initialization. Pretty straightforward, it just gets both BCM and ECM registered to the same VIN number.

I think this can also be done with the PC version of Nissan Datascan II, you will need a windows based laptop, the interface cable, the software, and the BCM needs to be decoded. Not totally sure if this free BCM decoder still works but I used it about a year ago.

Here's a link to the thread for the decoder.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...tool-nats.html

 

Thank you so much this seems like it would definitely be the issue since it isn’t getting spark hopefully this solves my problem! So if I get the consult 2 or 3 could I just do it that way?

 

The other thing that will prevent spark is bad data from the crank or either cam sensor. All 3 sensors need to be functioning properly for it to fire spark or inject fuel.

 

yea I thought that was the problem but I already replaced all three and checked the connections. Literally this is how I did the BCM replacement. I disconnected the battery. Let it sit for about 30 min then removed the old BCM. And replaced it with a new one. Then reconnected the battery and had someone come out and program the key. That’s exactly what happened I didn’t do anything less or anything more after that.

 

so I just came back to the car after changing the plugs and putting the new battery just two days ago. I haven’t touched the car since and I got in in it just a few minutes ago and now the security light is solid red. It wasn’t like that just two days ago. Could it have reset it self or? And also every time I put the car into the on position the fans kick in and don’t turn off. I honestly don’t know what the hell is happening or if I should even keep this thing because none of this was happening. It’s like it broke itself or something over the span of two days without being touched. Also now it won’t even crank.

 

That can be a couple things, typically it's water in the IPDM but it will also force the fans to high speed if the IPDM doesn't see the ECM. Check the fusible link and the IPDM fuses for the ECM.

Also get an OBD2 scanner on it and see if there are any codes.