I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 sedan and I'm desperate need of a ECU my car is an automatic and will not start and I'm sure that this is the problem I've went through other things and come back to this every time. If anybody has one day you would like to sell from an automatic same year please message me

 

You need to look at the sticker on your existing ECM and find the MEC number, that's what ECM you need. Should be able to source one from eBay.

This is NOT a plug and play item though, needs to be programmed to the BCM.

Just to verify your troubleshooting steps, the engine will crank but not start correct? And you don't have a NATS interlock preventing fuel/spark which would give you a solid red light on the security indicator while cranking. And you verified it's not a cam or crank sensor issue preventing fuel/spark? And you have sufficient fuel pressure that you measured at the fuel rail with an aftermarket sandwich adapter? And you do have spark because you pulled a plug and held it 1/4" away from the intake manifold while someone else cranked the engine so you could visually see the spark plug firing yes? And you have compression on each cylinder so it's not just a blown engine?

If you tested all those things there are still other things to troubleshoot before replacing the ECM though, is the car throwing any diagnostic codes?

 

So here's what happened it's my bros car and the blower motor was not working, he thought it was a relay maybe after trying a new blower motor. Anyway .he removed the relay under the glove box and then proceeded to take a wire and make the connection without the relay which baffles me why,but now the car will no longer start cranks over strong ,any ideas or thoughts?

 

The blower motor relay isn't under the glove box, it's in the driver foot well mounted to the BACK of the fuse block, you need to unbolt the fuse block, lift it forward, and replace the blue relay (there are a couple of relays depending on vehicle package, start by marking them numerically then swap them around to figure out which one is bad, the other/s do things like the rear window defroster, etc).

First fix the wiring SNAFU and put it all back the way it was, something got disconnected/rewired that was needed to make the car run.

 

I explained to him that the blower motor relay was not under the glove box and he said that what he did was remove the relay from there was under the glove box not sure what it is for he he then took a paperclip and crossed the two contacts on the plug while the motor was running which I told him was about the stupidest thing he could have done. But he crossed the two contact points on the plug and the motor died and would not restart. So something got fried I assumed it was the computer because that's what looks like the relay was connected to hoping it's not a total loss any advice would be much appreciated. I also told him to stop working on his car by himself LOL

 

And also wanted to mention I was able to fix the blower motor so his heat and air conditioning works only problem is the car doesn't work so kind of a bad situation all around

 

I would start by checking all the fuses in the fusible link (positive battery connection is a fuse holder with like 8 fuses), next check all the fuses in the IPDM (fuse box behind the battery, you'll probably find the issue is a blown fuse in there), as well as all the fuses in Fuse Block - J/B which is the one located in the drivers footwell. It's most likely that you just have a blown fuse somewhere.

I need to change my cabin air filter this weekend so I'll look around under the dash while I'm there and see if I can figure out what this "relay" was that he was messing with and see if I can tell exactly which circuit is the likely culprit.

 

Thank you for your time and yes that would help me greatly I appreciate it

 

Any chance you had a chance to figure out which relay that may have been that got fried .fingers crossed

 

Crap forgot all about that project lol, thanks for the reminder.

Yesterday was a **** show and I got distracted.

 

Ok, didn't see any relays. My guess is he tapped into either the ABS/VDC box which is mounted on the side of the footwell, or the ECM which is mounted directly behind the glove box.

As you can tell from my timestamps it took maybe 10 minutes to take it all apart, change my cabin air filter, and put it all back together, so I strongly recommend you just take it apart and look to see where he tapped the wiring for the blower motor which is also right there in that vacinity.

 

So I'm pretty sure is the fuel pump relay that was compromised would that burn up the fuel pump or what would be your suggestions on how to go about repairing that

 

The fuel relay just unplugs from the IPDM, nothing special. To verify you should be able to just swap it with the AC relay next to it I think they're the same relay.

 

If you can hear the fuel pump turn on for 1 second when the key is turned to the ON position it's probably not the fuel pump relay though.

If you lift the rear seat cushion (two tabs, one in the middle of each seat cushion down at the carpet, pull them both forward and lift the seat cushion front straight up) then you will easily hear the fuel pump prime.

 

​​​​​​ there is a relay underneath the glove box it's blue color that's the one they got ****ed up