Hey awesome people,

I'm so glad this forum is active! I have been lucky enough to hold on and drive a 2003 Nismo G35 Sedan. It is FAST - Engine is solid but everything else has started togo. Have replaced Control Arms, brakes, steering column recently. Foolishly, I was not taking it easy enough last night and barely got home. It has already been slipping substantially that tells me transmission. The jacking point near the rear wheel is also starting to rust with a few other spots.

I have come to the point where I do want to hold on so badly but also realize it may be time for me to replace - I enjoy the car so much that I essentially want an updated version, 2009-2012 G37x. I definitely want AWD/4 wheel drive.

These cars get great reviews, but upon doing some research a couple of months ago - there seems to be a common problem with these models, relative to the gasket, and the gasket's walls? I am seeing quite a few G37's between 2009-2012 with around you know, 130-175KM. Do they know this could be a future issue at around this mileage and that is why there are quite a few around me with this mileage?

Should I be looking at something else, like a Maxima, Suburu, Acura, Lexus or VW. I am looking for an AWD car with power and a bit of class. Am not a car buff persay but know a LITTLE about them and good buys from bad generally and to ask about timing belt. I want to purchase something safetied with a budget of around $10K-$12K

Any advice on the Gallery Gasket - seems like sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't but if it does on 2009-2012 G37's - it's a new engine or bust. Anyone with any insight or experience with this specific year of G would be appreciated. It's a shame as I am ready to buy and know EXACTLY what I want but don't want to be in for surprise later as my luck is not always the best to begin with understanding anything can go with a car at any time.

I am urgently looking for a new vehicle and im 99% sure my '03 G is not driveable now after last night..I'm in Ontario

Many thanks in advance

D

 

Firstly, the rear service jack point is the differential, shouldn't have any rust issues there. You probably mean the jackstand points on the pinch rails, you can move the jackstands forward or rearward a little if it gets it off the rusty spot.

Now for the GALLEY gasket, this is located behind the timing chain, there are two covers to direct oil pressure into stuff and both those internal covers have a gasket that is prone to cracking and sometimes blowing out a section of the gasket, this will throw the engine codes P0011 and P0021.

It does NOT mean it destroys the engine, mostly it just doesn't allow enough oil pressure to build up to properly actuate the intake cam solenoids, thus those two codes for cam actuator duty cycle not matching actual cam phase position.

It's as difficult to repair as changing the timing chain, basically you take off the chain (after several other disassembly steps) then you can remove those two covers. CZP and Z1 both make an excellent aftermarket replacement gasket that will not blow out.

Just bring an OBD2 scanner with you and see if it's throwing any codes, if not then your galley gaskets are GOOD ENOUGH to hold pressure. If I had to pull a number out of my butt I would guess it affects about 1 out of every 1000 HR equipped Nissan's.'

As for the timing CHAIN, it's designed to last the life of the motor, no need to factor that into your maintenance cost. If you ever do end up doing a galley gasket repair you would likely just put a new chain on though.

 

Apologies on late reply - thanks for all the info.

I've decided to keep the '03 G35 Nismo and perhaps store it underground for the time being until I figure out what todo with it. Start it every so often - it still drives but it will require a transmission and a control arm....There is also a little bit of rust in and near the rear wheel wells and the passenger seat leather is ripped. I really like the car and it is honestly pretty fast and feels good but I'm just ready for a new updated version of G and want AWD. I don't feel like putting a bunch of work into a car right now and would rather just buy the same car 10 years newer.

It seems in my search for an updated G37x there are quite a few that are selling right around the 170,000KM mark - especially 2011's oddly. I wonder if these owners are pro-active and selling it because of the potential gasket problems +++

I may up my budget - what model/year would you recommend - I hear 2012 they updated the gasket to some degree but now I'm also thinking 2009-2010 may be good too? Anything I should definitely avoid?

I'm only purchasing something that is pre-safetied/certified (Ontario requires a safety certification) - many are selling their cars "As-is" which is a red flag for me.

My budget is you know, a used car $10,000-$15,000 and I want to find a good value.

Thanks again,

 

Keep in mind that most owners have no clue about the actual mechanical equipment in their vehicle and will simply assume that it needs a timing chain replacement at 100k miles. The VQ37VHR engine used in the G37 was fine, no major failure points aside from the same galley gasket potentially failing, I don't know how much faith I put in this whole theory that 2012 had revised galley gaskets though, there are still PLENTY of new VHR engines that have blown the gasket and I think it has more to do with age. It takes time for the gasket to crack then push out from the galley cover, the VHR took time to get enough miles on thousands of engines for it to show up.

Personally I wouldn't have any second thoughts about buying one that was not throwing codes though, however I do my own engine work and tearing off a timing chain is no big deal, just a weekend of work for me. If you're paying shop rate for labor it's a much different story but it's not as common as it's made out to be on the forums. Most folks don't come to the car forums because their vehicles are working just fine. People that are having issues will come to the forums for advice so it ends up with an apparent lot of people who have galley gaskets blow out when it's actually not.

The only thing about the G37 I would keep in mind, the pre-revision years had some interior issues, you can tell which ones are the pre-facelift ones because the fog lamps are built into the headlights. The ones that have the separate fog lights BELOW the headlights were much better on the interior. You can tell from inside the car because the LCD screen between the tach and speedometer had amber colored lighting on the pre-facelift, white colored lighting on the newer ones. Plus a bunch of optional equipment things became standard equipment, mid-model year refreshes are typically always going to be improvements over the original but you will usually pay a LOT less for the earlier versions.

Out of curiosity are you looking for a coupe or sedan X ? You should be able to find either for that price range but the Xs will be quite a bit more money. Coupe you would likely need to settle for a 2008-2009, sedan I imagine you will find up to 2011 for that price depending on mileage and condition.

Also, your 2003 should fetch a pretty good price if it's a brembo equipped model, used car prices are pretty out of this world right now here in the US, not sure if it's the same in Canada but I suspect it is.

 

Thank you for this - all of this is very good intel and helpful.

This is a listing for one that I might be looking at:

https://www.autotrader.ca/a/infiniti...=100&modalXS=1

2011 G37x
It is HIGH KM (170K+) but they're selling it certified and that is important to me + it looks v clean and this is about the going rate. I don't want to spend more than this and I looked briefly at some other options like 2011 Lexus IS, Suburu's but I just can't get over how classy these look and I also want AWD.

2003 G35
I have had a 2003 G35 Nismo before and really enjoy it. I'm just kind of in a weird spot where I don't want to sell the '03 because it is still valuable, has valuable parts and stereo's and I just like it. I was driving it around yesterday and im 99% sure it's just the transmission. It slips and jolts when it heats up and I don't feel confident with it on the highway. I don't want to take it into the shop because I don't even plan on doing the repairs right now because it will be come a money pit. It needs a control arm and I just had to replace the chip, NISMO chip - $500 more than the non-nismo. I have been going to this shop for 10 years they don't jip people - I also thought I remember doing my research on it. Anyway. I just want an updated version of it and set for the winter. There is rust on the rear wheel wells that is concerning but I've attached pictures of the ol girl.

I do have an underground parking spot so I may just proceed - I want something with a little lower KM. But there are just not that many out there, especially one that looks as clean as this 2011 I'm looking at. I don't love that it's white as I've never been a fan of white cars and never pictured myself in one. The fog lights are below and have their own placement as you can see. I'd love a 2012 G37X with 140-150KM. that isn't white but I like that it is "S" - even though that doesn't mean much on these.

Thanks again for all the advice and guidance through this. I need a car prior to Nov 13th and before winter. I'm pretty sure this 2011 comes with Winters too.

 

Yes prices are crazy here as well... seeing lots of clapped out ones with close to 300,000km asking double what they're worth.... people taking advantage of covid bigtime

 

I'm in a bind - I don't want to sell the '03 Nismo (it is the brembo package) but it has rust on wheel wells. I tried to attach pictures but the post didn't make it up for some reason.

My old man doesn't want me to buy this 2011 G37x S - with car fax, and records - this guy is the 2nd owner and has taken great care of it. My old man just thinks it's too much and too old. Any advice on what to tell my dad? He kept referencing performance, expensive parts (incorrect) and 300 hp - i was gonna say it's actually 338 but refrained.

I went and checked out attached. He told me he would sell it to me for $10K certfied/safetied. Asking $11K. He seems trustworth and he doesn't need 2 cars anymore. had a sick volvo parked in front of it.

Attached pic - hope it makes it through - what does everyone think? I do worry about the galley gasket but I believe someone in this thread said - people come to forums when they have an issue but people don't come to forums when they don't.

Not to mention I like Iniiniti's - I am not finding a whole lot even outside the make infiniti even. I am probably going to todo. I got over the fact this 2011 G37x S is white

What todo with my curren '03 Nismo - I have no idea but may keep it underground and start it and drive it around every so often and in the spring make it a project car or something. I just really like it and don't want to sell it in the shape it is in (transmission is off, needs control arm, rust around wheel wells) otherwise it is pretty driveable right now. Perhaps not on highways and haven't tested since the transmission started feeling really off - that it does now.

Kind of just want to get this done.

 

My old man also kept referencing 10 years old. I don't think he knows what the market is right now.

This car for $10K safetied is a great deal.

 

When you say HR equipped Nissan's what do you mean?

I went and checked out a 2011 G37x S today and it is clean and I like it.

Not much better i can get for $10K right now. Im being honest and not even biased. 170KM - car fax, all service records and selling safetied

 

I think you already answered your own question, you don't want to sell the one you have but you're concerned about the rust.

FIX THE ONE YOU HAVE, start with a wire brush and a can of rust reformer to keep the rot at bay. There's a lot of DIY things you can do to rust to help stop the corrosion and cover it up.

Wait until you find exactly the right replacement vehicle in the future, preferably when used prices are the highest they've been in 20+ years.

As for your dad's concern about luxury sport car maintenance, he's not wrong. Luxury = expensive maintenance, sport = expensive maintenance. If you're paying a shop to do the work that adds up VERY quickly, if you're doing the work yourself that's different.

 

Pictures are above - given the transmission and all the other fixes it's just like when does it end. I've shopped for cars for $10K there isn't a ton out there.

 

Picture of what I'm looking at

 

Yeah that's why I think you should just start doing some minor repairs/maintenance to that car and wait until prices come back down to reality.