Does anyone know how or a reputable shop? How much would it cost?

And last, do you think ill "need" camber kit? The rear is kinda cheap, ill probly just pick those up, will the front have more camber than the rear?


Thanks

 

ask Hi-TechG35 to do it for you. He can do it at his place and his pricing is very reasonable.

You'll need rear camber arms more so than the front. But that doesn't mean you can ignore the front ones forever either

 

Thanks, I'll hit him up.

Problem is im on a budget. If I buy front and rear camber arms it will be a lot cheaper than buying the rears, and later fronts. Should I just get coils and month or so later get both camber kit together? Or will my tires be raped in a month

 

tires being raped in a month depends on how you drive and the distance as well as how frequently. If its your daily driver and you go 50-75 miles each way to work and you're doing 75-100mph every time you get in the car then yeah you're gonna rape your tires in a month (dont ask me how I know )

if you drive normal and don't have far distances to travel then you'll be fine

 

hI-TECH installed my TEINS last summer and im still riding SLAMMED with no tire wear...and i even put new tires before the installed and i see no WEAR...and also no problem with my suspension.

 

Rhino...I just sent you a PM...no need to worry about the camber wear for a good month or so....as PSSSH said it all depends on your driving. but usually you need to give the suspension some time to settle to see how the tires are going to wear.

 

I drive 100 miles every day on the Pike and my tires have not been "raped"
I've got around -1.5 in the front and about -2.5 in the rear. The inside edges wear faster than the rest of the tire, but I have had no excessive wear issues since getting my alignment.
If your Toe is out, your tires will go fast. Getting everything else in spec, you can live with a good amount of negative camber. It also depends on how low you go.
I'm on the Eibach drop and those settings are at the max... I can't get closer to spec without kits.

I may end up with a rear kit just to bring the camber up a bit but I don't want to go all the way back to factory specs either, as that negative camber comes with great handling. The secret is finding a balance.

In my opinion, you don't need a front kit. At the most, go with the rear camber kit.

 

well aren't you dropped on springs and not coilovers? Coilovers can go ALOT lower than springs can so depending on how low he wants to go will determine just how fast his outer edges are going to disappear. I was on Tanabe NF210 springs for almost 2 years before switching to the Tanabe Sustec Pro 5 coilovers. Granted I have the setting at like 3 threads off the very bottom but I don't see any premature camber wear. Although I am on my winter tires which were brand new and I've only driven on them since January they showed no camber wear in the rear where it would have shown the most. And I still haven't installed upgraded rear camber and toe arms yet although I do plan on doing them in a couple weeks

 

Coilovers only get A LOT lower than springs if you set them that way.
Stop arguing with me... don't you have some road to terrorize somewhere?
Jeesh

 

I have a couple ruined OEM bushings in my suspension so I've had to "behave" lately on the road. I don't think I've gotten over 55mph in like 2 weeks

Good news is I decided to change ALL of them to Whiteline poly bushings on Sunday and I'm putting my 19" Racing Hart J5 Pro Version 2 wheels on with wide rubber so its gonna be back to the status quo come Monday. Morning traffic has no clue what they're in store for next week

 

I'll put my helmet on and stay to the right

 

u think that'll help?

 

Thanks for all the info guys, I think I'll just get the rear ones at the same time and get it all done at once.

What I assumed was the front would need the camber kit more than the rear, since the front is what will be dropped a lot more than the rear?

 

I was hoping someone would answer your question about where to take your ride to have professional suspension work done. Looking for a place that knows WTF they are doing and has the proper lifts to handle LOW vehicles. Does Hi-Tech work at a shop or in his driveway with cinder blocks and bottle jacks???

 

Professional driveway mechanic that knows his shiet!!...I've done suspension on cars for the following members on this board (1)MrOreo, (2)Fluffy, (3)PSSSH, (4)FutureGDriver, (5)Will (friend of Xjomo), (7)StryderZ, (8)G-Fusion, (9)Anndy811 and quite a few others. Cinder blocks NO...2x4 YES....bottle jack NO....2-Ton heavy duty floor jack YES...works better than most shops with a torque wrench and sockets versus air tools...definitely!