I'm planning to order my spacer next week. Any Sactown Gs down to do a group install? My garage will be open to anyone that wants to do this. Or has everyone in sac already put theirs on?

 

i'm still contemplating on whether or not i should get yet...

when i'm back up in sac next week i should have hit the 1200 mile break-in mark...

i gotta change the oil too.... spacer is gonna have to wait... need treads for my 2k2 6spd max first....

 

Having already installed mine and having heard all the horror stories about broken bolts, here's a suggestion. Do NOT use a ratchet when you tighten the bolts on the plenum. Since I couldn't find an affordable, accurate torque wrench that went low enough, I used a nut driver and tightened very gently. I left the engine cover off for a week or so and checked the bolts every once in awhile to make sure they didn't come loose. I hope that helps.

 

I just put over 5K on my G. So far I've only added the z-tube and k&n. I was planning to go FI but I've changed my mind and opted to put more money into my crx for autocrossing. I think the plenum spacer is probably the next step. Then I'll work on the suspension.

Thanks for the tip _cru, I do have a couple of torque wrenches though from my rice rocket days. But come to think of it we barely used them. I'll be sure to be careful.

 

skeleton_cru, what are the torque setting on these nuts??

 

With regard to torquing down the upper collector/plenum . . . It is a progressive tightening sequence to insure evenly distributed presure across the said.

The final torque settings are 60 inch-lbs. for the 6(six) center bolts and 100 inch-lbs. for the remaining 18(eighteen) perimeter bolts. I would highly recommend the use of an inch-lbs. torque wrench.

After a weeks time, it is prudent to re-check/re-torque all of the bolts. When re-checking my plenum bolts . . . The perimeter bolts were all good at the original 100 inch-lbs. setting. However, 4 of the center bolts were out of torque by some 1+ turns.

 

A group install on this could be tough since driving there would heat up the engine and you want the engine to be cool when you're taking the plenum apart.

 

true true....

 

+1 . . . It's a prudent idea to allow the engine to cool down for some time to afford easier bolt extraction. I waited overnight, myself.

 

Andy, do you own an inch-lb torque wrench? I couldn't find one for the life of me.

 

just get a foot-lb torqe wrench i belive the MD spacer is 5lb foot and my skunk2 was 7lb foot.

 

Eloy,

I borrowed an inch-lbs. torque wrench from a friend. If you need one, I'll borrow it for you.

I don't recommend it, but you can use a ft.-lbs. wrench. Simply divide the inch-lbs. setting by 12. When working with such light settings, I personally do not trust a ft.-lbs. wrench in this situation. Unless you have recently calibrated the ft.-lbs. wrench.

The difference between a 60 inch-lbs. setting versus a 100 inch-lbs. setting would work out to be 3.3 ft.-lbs. If your ft.-lbs. wrench is not calibrated properly, you may potentially snap bolts.

 

That's why I refused to use a ft-lbs torque wrench. It's a recipe for disaster. Thanks for the offer, but my spacer is already installed and it's fine.

 

where in sac are you i'm waiting for my iso thermal plenum spacer to come in maybe this week or early next week....in also in sac

 

I'm in North Natomas over by arco. I'm down to help you out! I haven't done it either but it looks pretty straight forward. I used to do engine swaps in my parents garage back in my ricer days. This can't be that hard. let me know! I'll PM you my cell....