Hey guys,
I just ordered some h-techs, and I will need them installed once they arrive. I can do the rears myself, but since I don't have any air tools or a spring compressor, I'll need someone to install the fronts for me. Either someone who has done it before can offer to do it for me for some $ or if you guys can recommend a shop to do it. Needs to be in the Beaverton area because I don't want to travel very far. Hopefully you guys can help me out with this.
-Hai

 

I took mine to Race Dezign in Beaverton off TV Highway -- Ask for Casey and mention to him that Adam in the white G35 referred you. They are very straight-forward and trustworthy- Have had ALL of my work done there on all of my cars. I was charged $110 for front/rear install and it took about 1.5 hours. Their work line is 503-848-4060!

 

Really, thats good because I just had them do my tint and they did a pretty decent job. I'll give them a call about it.

 

I've upgraded my struts/springs twice in my garage. The second time around, I used a procedure that didn't require any compressors, and I did it all with hand tools. Granted, it's a hassle, but if you want to DIY, it's possible.

 

I demand a write up! I've had some spring/shocks in the garage for months! hehe I have spring compressors but they are bulky. The install instructions I see here have them still on the springs when the combo is installed on the car. I don't think have that type of room with these.

But I do have more than one hydraulic jack etc...

 

How's it goin man, I bought your old wheels a while back. I writeup would be great, I would like to DIY if possible to make sure they don't mess up my wheels when they take them off to do the install. I've got the factory jack, a hydrolic jack, and 2 jackstands to work with. Let us in on the secret.

 

Hey red lude, i have an o6 liquid platnum 6mt and i was thinking about lowering it with the h-techs, could you post some pics when they are installed? Or maybe we could meet up somewhere, i live in Hillsboro. Let me know.

 

Dude you want some sportlines.. SLAM THAT SHEIT!

 

hey guys, just got done installing the H-Tech's on my G. You DO NOT need spring compressors, just be sure to take the thing on top of the strut out SLOWLY and believe me, nothing shoots out. Rears were easy and dropped in perfectly, but fronts take some time to work with. A little advice I could offer is to use a long *** wrench and another to hold the thread when taking off the nut on top of the strut to free the spring out of its place. Other than that, the fronts are pretty straightforward.

 

yea sportline eibach .... mine is coming this weekend
how s the ride quality? n how much drop des it actually do?

 

I think it's closer to 2" personally... It's definitly LOW. I bottom out here and there if I'm not careful and have a few people in the car..

 

Spring compressors are a safety device, you're lucky to get them out without doing any damage. Springs won't shoot out every time, but that one time it does you can be seriously injured. BTW did you trim the bumpstops at all?

 

I realize they are a safety device, but really unless you screw the nut off the top of the strut carelessly you shouldn't have a problem. Anyways, I did not cut the bumpstop because the Teins aren't a very extreme drop.

 

OK Guys - sorry I didn't get back on this sooner. The original DIY I used for my both of my swaps was located on g-owners.com:

http://g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=12

During this swap (non-Sport to Sport), I used the spring compressors. The next time around, when I did the Sport to 350Z swap, I followed the same DIY but, instead of using spring compressors, I disconnected the upper control arm.

redlude97 - There's no danger with the springs. By disconnecting the upper control arm, you remove all compression on the spring. The arm comes apart with a pop, but not because of spring pressure - just gravity. It's not bad. Here's an excerpt from my post right after I did the second (no compressor) swap...

"Disconnecting the upper control arm IS the way to go. You will need to buy a pair of 3/32" pin's to replace the one's you have to pull out to get the nut off the upper control arm. I recommend either brass or stainless steel. The arm is offten stuck in place even when you have the nut loose. Use something to gently pry on it or even tap on it. DO NOT take the nut off until you unseat the arm or you will get a sudden suprise when it springs free and starts to fall apart."

So after you remove the wheel and then disconnect the lower bolt on the strut, the bolt on the endlink, and the 3 bolts on the top under the hood, you just disconnect the control arm from the upper link. It's what is blocking the strut's way out. Once you disconnect them, there's nothing impeding the strut and you can just pull it straight out. It's much much easier."

 

I've unscrewed the top of the strut thinking there wasn't much pressure from the spring. Now this was on a maxima but applies to any strut based car. The damned bolt shot out of there like a bullet.

Now once the aftermarket spring was on there, there was much less tension on the strut top vs the oem spring.(due to the shorter length)

Point being, just assuming it's okay not use a spring compressor (especially on a stock, near stock length spring) is asking for a world of hurt.