Detailed: Blklude98's 06 OB 6mt Sedan
#1
Detailed: Blklude98's 06 OB 6mt Sedan
Today I got a chance to detail Jeff's (blklude98) 06 sedan. Needed some MAJOR paint correction as there were an incredible amount of swirls, surface scratches, and spider webbing. Took 6 hours to correct the paint, and another 2 for the interior. It came out gorgeous and almost made me consider picking up an 06 6mt sedan instead of the m3 lol. Car sounds awesome (my old HKS) and really is modded right. It was a pleasure working with you Jeff. Anyway... here's some after pics. Forgot to take before's. I think Jeff can vouge how bad the paint was lol. Also, no pics of interior. It was very clean though lol.
Don't worry, I got all the dirt. I wasn't finished with it when I took the pic
Don't worry, I got all the dirt. I wasn't finished with it when I took the pic
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Direct sunlight there is NO webbing of any kind. High Intensity lights are used when detailing to make sure all webbing, scratches, and swirls are gone. Been doing this for 8+ years so I DO know what I am doing. Paint can be corrected in 6 1\2 hours when using the right products and know how. One and only way to do it correctly is with a porter cable. Clayed and used an assortment of polishes that I've combined over the years to work best. Started off with yellow pad (to remove deep scratches and swirls), then went over with orange pad (remove lighter scratches and webbing), and lastly a blue pad (used to apply wax).
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#9
Thanks buddy. Whenever you need one, just let me know!!! Pm me if you want to set anything up or have any questions
Last edited by g35freak86; 03-15-2009 at 05:37 PM.
#10
Direct sunlight there is NO webbing of any kind. High Intensity lights are used when detailing to make sure all webbing, scratches, and swirls are gone. Been doing this for 8+ years so I DO know what I am doing. Paint can be corrected in 6 1\2 hours when using the right products and know how. One and only way to do it correctly is with a porter cable. Clayed and used an assortment of polishes that I've combined over the years to work best. Started off with yellow pad (to remove deep scratches and swirls), then went over with orange pad (remove lighter scratches and webbing), and lastly a blue pad (used to apply wax).
#11
wow! 6 1/2 AND WITH A PC?!?! I'm not doubting ya man, I just don't know many detailers that can do a FULL correction in 6 hours let alone going over the car again with other pads. A PC is a good machine but lacks a LOT of power hence being shocked you did a full correction that quick and with a PC no less. I use a UDM which has 20% more power over a PC and it will easily take me 8 hours to do a FULL correction. I can see 6 hours with a rotary or a flex but a PC?? Also curious what polish you used and why something as aggressive as a yellow pad was used? I'd generally use an orange lc pad with SIP to get the job done as this is a pretty standard combo unless the car was TOTALLY TRASHED which if that was the case, there's no chance on Gods green earth that could be corrected in 6 or 7 hours. Using something as aggressive as a yellow pad I'm surprised you didn't follow it up with a white pad as white pads are what's used almost all the time with a final polish like 106ff or something like that, ESPECIALLY on black paint which marrs really easily. So what polishes did you use?
Got to keep in mind I had another working with me on the car, which I should have stated in the first place. I understand your doubt and how you don't believe it can be done, but it's what I did and used. I used an assortment of menzerna polishes. I went with the yellow pad simply due to the fact it had some deep scratches in some parts of the car. So I decided to use a more aggressive pad in over the whole car to uniform the paint and have the same layer of clear on the whole car. I usually use an orange pad first, but the paint needed a lot of correction. I went with the blue pad for the final step because I found that it gives more of a deep wet look than the white pad at a slower speed. Using the blue pad at a slower speed tends to give a much cleaner look, IMO. Everybody has different techniques and amount of time put in for a detail. I've seen details take up to a full week. I've done a car over the course of 3 full 10 hour days. If you want to PM Jeff (blklude98) to ask his opinion on my work, then feel free. He even vouged for me saying how bad the paint was and how well it came out. I am sorry if you want to argue some more over the fact of the time I did the detail, then send me a PM. Thank you
EDIT: Added Quote from Jeff
Huge props to chris! He really did an amazing job! I had really bad swirl marks and scratches from the previous owner. Since it got nicer out I let chris have a go with my car. Anyone in nj should let this guy detail your ride before the spring/summer hits. It was worth the hour drive from my house.
Thanks again chris, you did an amazing job!
Thanks again chris, you did an amazing job!
Last edited by g35freak86; 03-16-2009 at 12:18 AM.
#12
#13
Got to keep in mind I had another working with me on the car, which I should have stated in the first place. I understand your doubt and how you don't believe it can be done, but it's what I did and used. I used an assortment of menzerna polishes. I went with the yellow pad simply due to the fact it had some deep scratches in some parts of the car. So I decided to use a more aggressive pad in over the whole car to uniform the paint and have the same layer of clear on the whole car. I usually use an orange pad first, but the paint needed a lot of correction. I went with the blue pad for the final step because I found that it gives more of a deep wet look than the white pad at a slower speed. Using the blue pad at a slower speed tends to give a much cleaner look, IMO. Everybody has different techniques and amount of time put in for a detail. I've seen details take up to a full week. I've done a car over the course of 3 full 10 hour days. If you want to PM Jeff (blklude98) to ask his opinion on my work, then feel free. He even vouged for me saying how bad the paint was and how well it came out. I am sorry if you want to argue some more over the fact of the time I did the detail, then send me a PM. Thank you
EDIT: Added Quote from Jeff
EDIT: Added Quote from Jeff
It's all good, if I knew you had someone else helping you it would have made a lot more sense from the start. I wasn't "arguing" with you, I was just really confused. Usually when people show detail jobs they talk about the products they used and I'm still wanting to know what specifically you used. What Menzerna products did you use and in what order? What sealant? What LSP?
#14
It's all good, if I knew you had someone else helping you it would have made a lot more sense from the start. I wasn't "arguing" with you, I was just really confused. Usually when people show detail jobs they talk about the products they used and I'm still wanting to know what specifically you used. What Menzerna products did you use and in what order? What sealant? What LSP?
Poor Boys World- Super Slick Suds
Clay Magic- Fine Grade Clay Bar
Poor Boys- Spray and wipe (used with clay bar)
Menzerna- Intensive Polish (IP)- used with yellow
Menzerna- Final Polish II (FPII)- used with orange
Poor Boys World - Nattys Blue Paste Wax- used with blue
#15
The PO83 is also a great heavy polish. Never used it before so I can't speak for it. However, I have seen friends use it an it comes out great. From what I heard, it's a pretty abrasive polish. I have used the 106ff polish before and it works well. However, infiniti paint is very soft and 106ff is more for a harder clear coat. It'll still work well so don't be hesitiant.