Telco, you gotta let this fuel-grade thing go, man. All yer doing is perpetuating the exact same misleading rhetoric as the fuel companies themselves, just with opposite information. Yes, it's true that putting premium in cars that weren't designed for it is stupid, but the G WAS designed for premium, so that video doesn't speak to this community. It is also true that it's perfectly fine (and safe) to run 87 octane in any modern car, but if it was designed for 91, and you use 91, you aren't "wasting money". The extra money is being spent on keeping the car running on what it was designed to run on.

I'll compare it to tire size: can you run a different tire size safely and effectively regardless of the original size and design? Of course you can. It will affect performance tho, and if you want your car to perform the way it was designed to, the original tire size is what you should be buying.

 

I only use original size OEM Tires that I purchase from the dealer along with installation, alignment and balance. Vehicle has always been perfect when leaving which makes me happy. I get a 10% discount on parts and a loaner vehicle if necessary.
I only trust the dealer to work on my vehicle having learned an important lesson many years ago when an independent shop caused me untold grief and aggravation.

ScraggleRock

You are entitled to your own opinion but not your own facts.

The OP and others reading these forums are old enough (I think?) to make their own decisions?
For those that want to spend/waste the extra money for premium gasoline because it makes them feel good, I say go for it.
Some even feel their vehicles run better even after washing it?

After twelve years of Infiniti ownership (06 traded in on my present 2012 with 171796 miles) and my present one with 88k miles I've driven both of them 260,000 miles all on regular 87 octane without any engine or other problems whatsoever.
I did do a one month test using 91 octane and another month test of using 93 octane in April and May of 2009 after hearing all the ragging of many like yourself telling me I was going to destroy my vehicle.

Those two monthly tests proved that I got better MPG using regular 87 octane.
The tests were conducted when I was commuting 100 miles/day or 2000 miles/month using the same route and same trip every day.

I've saved thousands of dollars using regular 87 octane these past twelve years and I only inform others that nothing is going to happen to their Infiniti by its use.

Locally here in NJ I purchase almost all my gas here.



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On my trips from NJ to Florida a few times a year I prefer Loves truck stops. Excellent gas, clean rest rooms with many stalls.



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Always get excellent MPG on the road cruising down I95 from NJ to Florida



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Short trips with frequent stops and starts, not so much

So sorry if that bothers you but hey if you enjoy pissing money away and it makes you happy enjoy your premium gasoline.

Telcoman

 

Lol, what bothers me is that you post that same exact reaction every time you talk about it. You have that copied and pasted somewhere? I know you won't destroy your car, that's not what I'm saying, I'm saying you aren't "pissing your money away" when the motor is designed to use 91. Yes, you're paying extra, but it is intact FOR something that the engine/ecu is capable of utilizing properly (unlike a car that was made for 87).

I know it won't destroy your car, and I don't care about how many stalls your gas station has, I'm just saying, you don't have to try to convince everyone to use 87, cuz people can make that decision for themselves and they don't "lose" by choosing it. If it was a civic, then yeah, convince them not to, it's stupid to do, but in a vehicle that's made for it, it's fine.

 

Well that's quite interesting, I always put 91 octane as I though my car only took premium gas. I had a Buddie with a 350Z tell me that his only took about 5 dollars of regular gas before the pump would shut off, I'm not sure if its true or not but it was quite intriguing. Additionally, I have done some research on some of the best mechanic shops around town and hopefully I'll get my car towed out to properly identify the problem, hopefully its nothing extreme like a blown engine but at this point im gotten desensitized to the idea of it so time to save up some more money.

 

Not sure where you received the scholarships to but since you used a double negative here that means there is something to discuss about your education lol.

Look, you made a poor decision and now it's time to rectify it. Hopefully you will learn something from this experience (a little humility and patience would be good) because that's what life is all about. You're young and impulsive and that's understandable but the advice you've been given here for the most part is solid. G's are great but not a good choice for you. Buy something now that's cheap and reliable and use that patience I mentioned to get a G down the road when you are more familiar with cars and more financially able to support one like it should be supported.

 

Sorry haha, I can't give up on my G, if anything its the best time to learn about it and also work on my ignorance as to which many have pointed out. Im sorry I'm not a grammar wiz and my writing may not be the best, I just came here for advice lol. I do sincerely appreciate all the responses I've received and truly apologize for my grammar skills as they are clearly not the best hahah.

 

First off check the oil dipstick to see if it's actually MOTOR oil that you were hemorrhaging. From the symptoms you gave which were:

-Engine revving high and still not moving
-Feels like it's in neutral and won't go

It sounds to me like you blew a TRANSMISSION line and were blowing ATF all over the place, not engine oil.

Your overheating maybe be due to air trapped in the system, you say it has a coolant leak? How much does it leak and does it actually drip out onto the ground or does it just "disappear like magic!". The coolant system is notoriously hard to bleed air out of and if it's sucking the reservoir dry then it will be ingesting air into the system that needs to be bled out.

Lets get some more details about both these issues, transmission lines/fittings/cooler are easy fixes. Transmission itself, notsomuch... hope it's not that. Bleeding air out of the system is manageable, find and fix the leak first.

 

That makes perfect sense, I saw no cracks under the oil pan. I also checked my oil dipstick and it seems to be on a normal level, if given that I blew a transmission line would that not let my engine turn over, my mechanic tried and it just sounded like it wanted to start but then the battery drained itself at the second attempt. Is there a way I can check if I do indeed have a blown transmission line ?

Thanks

 

Checking to see if it's transmission fluid is easy, just pull out the tranny dipstick and see if it's low, from the amount of fluid you say dumped out it will probably be below the lowest point of the dipstick. As far as finding the leak, I would enlist the help of another person for this one:

-charge the battery on the vehicle so you can start it

-get the thing up on jackstands and remove the engine bottom cover (like 15x 10mm bolts to take off the plastic cover).

-I would also remove the grille which can be a tricky MF if you've never done it before, the hard part is the "diamond clips" on the top corners, put a flat blade screwdriver and rotate it slightly while pulling the grille corner (have to make the diamond rotate 45 degrees to fit through the square, it separates really easy when you know what to do, bottom ones just reach your arm in and depress the retainer on the bottom side of each clip.

-One person sits in the vehicle and starts the car and if it's not obvious where the stuff is spraying from put it in gear

!!!!TAKE APPROPRIATE MEASURE SUCH AS FULLY LIFTING VEHICLE ONTO JACKSTANDS OR CHOCKING BOTH SIDES OF REAR TIRES, DONT RELY ON THE PARKING BRAKE ONLY BECAUSE IT MIGHT NOT BE ADJUSTED OR MIGHT BE WORN OUT!!!!!

ALSO! DO NOT GET UNDER THE VEHICLE FOR ANY REASON IF THE DRIVE TIRES ARE ON THE GROUND AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!!!!

no need to rev the motor or anything. Other guy has a flashlight and quickly tries to identify where the fluid is pumping out, you're going to get ATF everywhere so put down a tarp or some plastic so you don't trash your driveway.

It should be really obvious, a fountain of red liquid will be coming out of something, if it's spraying out that's even easier to find, wear safety glasses or sunglasses or something so you don't get that stuff in your eyes though, it's under pressure. Once you find the leak take some pictures of where exactly it's coming from and post them back here and we can give you some advice on how to proceed. If you are having a hard time determining exactly where the fluid is leaking from get an inspection mirror from your local parts store so you can see better around corners and stuff. If nothing is pouring out it's possible you drained all 11-12 quarts of ATF already.

 

i checked my transmission fluid and it seems to be just fine, also my engine oil is fine. Can't seem to find the source of the oil.
Although its not quite clear from the picture, it seems to be pretty normal

 

Transmission fluid needs to be check while the engine is running, get it up to temp, cycle through the gears or preferrably check it after you have been driving. Fluid needs to be properly cycling through the entire system which lowers the level of the fluid pan. However if it's reading on the dipstick then it probably wasn't THAT much that leaked (if it was ATF). You should check other fluid levels as well, those are usually really obvious when they go however because you lose things like power steering, brakes, clutch, almost immediately when they rupture.

I've never seen the auto-tranny dipstick on one of these vehicles, that white plastic thing in the background looks eerily similar to the windshield washer fluid reservoir?

Were you able to collect any of the residual fluid when it was spraying out? Each has their own special texture, smell, color, and it's usually pretty easy to tell which is which if you've been around them before.

Did you ever get the vehicle started?

 

i was not, my battery was dead. I will try this weekend and will update on so, thank you. As per the the white reservoir, It is indeed the windshield fluid reservoir if I'm not mistaken.

 

If you don't have a cap for the wiper fluid reservior you need to get one, wrecking yard will have one cheap, they're the same on every Nissan I believe, if that's too much hassle then make one from cardboard and duct tape or something. Debris inside the reservior will trash that pump quickly and you will have more things to fix.

 

its hard to believe but the guys at kwiki lube never placed it back on, after my oil change the guy refilled it but I never noticed it up until now.

 

Interesting thread and thought I would reply to a couple things.

I noticed my cap on my windshield reservoir came off last night, it's not a good design, seems to not really have any bite to it like a snug fit design should be it's an easy fix.

About the octane thing. 87 vs premium. About 4 months ago on a budget I ran 87 octane for 2 weeks, first time ever on my 03. My gas mileage dropped like a rock, very noticeable amount with mainly freeway driving. Im usually getting 100 miles a quarter tank give or take but I was getting 75 miles on 87 octane. My other experience with 87 vs 93. Under light load scenarios and normal driving it won't be noticeable other than peak hours/tq or mpg but use 87 octane on a car designed for 91+ octane climbing a hill or a steep incline and it will ping like hell. Octane is usually determined from base engine timing if my memory serves me correct. A car with 17 degrees base timing needs 91-93 octane. A car with 10 degrees timing can get by with 87 octane. A G that isn't in prime condition with less than factory 15 degrees timing might not show signs of pinging etc because it isn't in peak condition anyway.

On the topic that someone on a budget shouldn't have bought a 15 year old Infinity. It's a shiny Nissan, With so many G's and Z's out there, parts are dirt cheap like any other 10+ year old car. Differential and headlight assembly are about the only pricy things on this car. Premium parts on rock auto prove this. $48 fuel pump, $50 radiator, $7 thermostat, $105 Throttle Body, $65 fender, etc etc that is dirt cheap even for a fixer upper.

Just my opinion on some of the replies above