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Used my original revup harness with an ECU from an 05 350z roadster
Used NDS2 to program my 2 keys with the ECU
…and BAM! Good as new. No check engine lights. Runs and drives like a dream.
Detailed version:
The revup tossed a rod, chewed a piston into kibbles n bits, and blew crunchies all through the intake and into every other cylinder, bending many of the valves, ripped up the baffle plate, blew holes and cracks in the block. Toast.
I spent a good deal more money in other places too. E.g. New tie rod (original was bent), new valve covers (jdm had leaky plug seals), new passenger seat switch, engine lift from harbor freight, engine stand from craigslist, plenum gaskets, 2K clear coat rattle can for some clear coat scratches, other nickle and dime stuff… but that’s getting off subject.
What I did:
Let’s not get into the obvious stuff (we all know how to pull a DE). I want to share the details that were tricky (at least for a nissan n00b like me).
The ECU:
According to the FSM’s, the pinouts for a 350z 6MT ECU from 2004.5 to 2006 are identical to that of the 2005 G35 revup, with these exceptions:
the extra pins on the revup for the exhaust VCT stuff (pins 53, 72, 9, 8)
the oil temp sensor pin (54)
These are N/C for the non-revup ECUs. This is why I was able to use my original revup harness, leaving the exhaust VCT retarder and sensor plugs dangling, as well as the oil temp sensor plug. No rewiring was necessary at all.
I knew which ECUs would be pin-compatible candidates thanks to this chart I found on the interwebs (the attached PDF covers more models than 350z). Don’t trust ebay descriptions. Use the chart to find the exact part number ECU.
The highlighted one is the one I found on ebay for the decent-est price.
@cleric670 mentioned to me in another thread that the 06 ECUs would not talk to NDS2. (EDIT: I am mistaken - he didn't say it won't talk to the 06 ECU; he said it won't talk to an 06 BCM. Thanks for the correction, cleric). I have not verified this for myself, but his advice was enough to steer me away from the 06 ECUs, even though they are also pin-compatible according to the FSM.
Removing the A/T pilot bushing:
Soooo many youtubes out there of folks trying to remove the A/T pilot bushing with a Dremel, grinder, hatchet, shotgun… I’ve seen em all, and they all just make a horrific mess of your crankshaft.
Use an actual pilot bearing puller. See link above for the one I got from harbor freight. It worked great, but with one caveat – I had to grind down its “claws” to make it seat behind the bushing.
Unless you grind it down like so, the grabby part won’t fit down into the small groove behind the pilot bushing. After grinding them down, it was able to grip behind the bushing and out it came.
The old gas (petrol):
This car had been sitting for 2 years before I bought it, so the gas was no good. I drained it out by forcing the fuel pump on.
How I did it:
Remove the gas cap
Remove the passenger wheel and fender inner
Remove the fuel damper from the fuel rail input (2x 10mm bolts).
CAREFULLY snake it down into where the wheel was. DON'T KINK IT!!! That line aint cheap!
Hold it into a gas can or something to catch the fuel.
With the battery connected, turn the key to ON
Jump pins 3 and 5 of the fuel pump relay in the IPDM
...and let it pee all of the old fuel out. It might take a while depending on how full your tank is. Be patient.
How I WANTED to do it was to disconnect the fuel line down where it connects to the hard line so I could connect a rubber hose to it and drain it thru the hose, but I could NOT get that damn connector to let go, and I was afraid to force it. Maybe you will have better luck than me.
NATS:
With a VAG cable, a laptop, NDS2, your BCM pincode, and this online tool, you can reprogram your keys to the new ECU (credit to @raygun for sharing this knowledge, and @cleric670 for pointing me to it).
If you already have an uprev license, you can delete NATS I think. But if you don’t, and don’t wanna pay uprev $300 to do it for you, or your dealership $250, you can DIY with NDS2.
See this thread from raygun for details on where to find your BCM pincode and how to “decode” it or whatever. Thank you, raygun!!
If I had to do it again, things I would do differently:
Check for leaky valve cover plug seals on the donor engine BEFORE installing it into the car! Would’ve been so much easier to fix on the engine stand.
Disconnect the fuel line down where it connects to the hard line BEFORE putting the new engine in. That way I have plenty of room to gently wrassle with it. Then use a rubber hose to drain the fuel later. Disconnecting the fuel damper from the rail input and snaking it down without kinking it was a pain.
I’m sure I left some details out that yall may be interested in. Ask away if you like. Any comments, or things you would've done differently, also welcome. Teach me.
First time poster and I know it’s a year old thread, but this is the best thing I have found to junk my revup. When you installed the new (used) ecu, did you use your chassis vin or keep the vin that was already installed on the new (used) ecu? I’m planning on using a Launch 431+ to program/match everything up and I am waffling on which vin to use. 2006 MT 350Z base to 2005 MT 350Z base swap. Any help appreciated.
As far as I'm aware that machine doesn't offer support for pairing ECM/BCM for this car. I think the only two pieces of software that do are Nissan Datascan II (PC version) as well as UpRev. Both of which are substantially less expensive as well. From what I'm reading in the Launch literature it offers BCM work support but I don't see it explicitly state it supports pairing. Chime in if you have hands-on experience and know this does work because it opens up more potential options for this car.
As for VIN, you always use the VIN of the chassis the equipment is installed in, it doesn't actually make any difference electronically speaking but it's much easier to just look at the car you're working on. There are also some potential legalities issues in some states but I've never heard of it ever affecting someone who legitimately used another vehicles ECM/BCM/key straight from a donor vehicle. If it was a brand new car and you were taking it to the dealership for other service that would be different and might raise a red flag.
I am looking to pick up a 2005 G35 with a buggered motor.. I can get non Revup motor for +- $1000 CAN. A Revup motor is +$2500 CAN.
Below it states that the ECU from a 2005 350Z 6MT Roadster will work. Are there any other ECU's that will work, or is it that one specific unit (MEC61-840) only?
Originally Posted by pleonasm
What I did:
Let’s not get into the obvious stuff (we all know how to pull a DE). I want to share the details that were tricky (at least for a nissan n00b like me).
The ECU:
According to the FSM’s, the pinouts for a 350z 6MT ECU from 2004.5 to 2006 are identical to that of the 2005 G35 revup, with these exceptions:
the extra pins on the revup for the exhaust VCT stuff (pins 53, 72, 9, 8)
the oil temp sensor pin (54)
These are N/C for the non-revup ECUs. This is why I was able to use my original revup harness, leaving the exhaust VCT retarder and sensor plugs dangling, as well as the oil temp sensor plug. No rewiring was necessary at all.
I knew which ECUs would be pin-compatible candidates thanks to this chart I found on the interwebs (the attached PDF covers more models than 350z). Don’t trust ebay descriptions. Use the chart to find the exact part number ECU.
The highlighted one is the one I found on ebay for the decent-est price.
@cleric670 mentioned to me in another thread that the 06 ECUs would not talk to NDS2. (EDIT: I am mistaken - he didn't say it won't talk to the 06 ECU; he said it won't talk to an 06 BCM. Thanks for the correction, cleric). I have not verified this for myself, but his advice was enough to steer me away from the 06 ECUs, even though they are also pin-compatible according to the FSM.
Good Day everyone..
I was able to get the ECU thing I asked about above sorted out. I ended up using a ECU from a 2005 350Z 6MT Roadster.. I was able to follow the instructions above and I have put about 5000km on the car over the summer. Its been running great.
However I do seem to have one small issue or question. It seems that once the car is up to temperature, the fans run constantly.. Looking at the two FSM's there is a very slight difference in when the when the fans are commanded to turn on. G53 rev-up 98c (208F) degrees vs the 350Z 95c (205) degrees.
During the swap over I replaced the thermostat with a standard 77c (170F) unit. I used a vacuum blead unit to fill the coolant.
Can anyone comment on where I should go with this? Is it normal for the fans to run constantly once up to temperature? The temp gauge never moves past just below level.. It never over heats..
I live near Toronto Canada, our daily temp ranges from 10C to 45C during the summer. It did not matter the outdoor temp, wither I had the AC on or not, the fans always ran..
Should I try my stock 2005 rev-up ECU? Will it run properly without the extra cam sensors / solenoids or will it throw a code?
11-02-2021 | 10:21 AM
